Rabanne F/W 2024.25 Paris

I love it. Another hit was delivered by Julien for me.

I just love the way Julien always finds a way to move forward every season. He hasn't designed himself into a PR cliche look. More than a decade and yet his tenure is as fresh as ever.
It's so interesting to see that if you break down this collection's pieces by pieces you'll get an everyday essential but with a PR twist.
I like the knitwear. And the prints are very eye-catching.
MAS styling is just sublime. When she's good, she's good, I'll give her that. She makes the collection look complex but still able to keep them very light.

I just enjoy everything. I have nothing to complain really.
 
Intriguing collection.
weirdly he masters to make retro hypermodern again.
i really like all the jackets and coats - and the sparkling pantyhose. So chic!

Not a big fan of the shoes and styling tough – too trendy and attention grabbing for my taste.
 
His best one yet. Ghesquiere is all over it, but at least done well.
 
I watched the show and I like this! While it shares 80s themes with Marant, this is not literal and goes in a very different direction over all. Its like NG Vuitton + Phoebe's Chloe had a love child , it has complex textures and fabrics of NG Vuitton but the ease and cool girl vibe of Chloe.
 
When I viewed the thumbnails at first I thought it was just some other collection, but once I opened and viewed detail shots i loved the textures and how they are well thought out and planned.
 
This video by Under stitch is very interesting, mainly in how it shows the weaknesses of Dossena's Rabanne:

I agree. Dossena's collections for the brand are strong, but the actual brand direction is incredibly weak and inconsistent in how often the aesthetic changes. They also need to get their merchandising on point.
 
This video by Under stitch is very interesting, mainly in how it shows the weaknesses of Dossena's Rabanne:

I agree. Dossena's collections for the brand are strong, but the actual brand direction is incredibly weak and inconsistent in how often the aesthetic changes. They also need to get their merchandising on point.

Yeah I don’t agree with the points made.
While I think the rebrand wasn’t necessary, I think it was essential for Dossena to move on from the chainmail anyway.
What the analysis lacks is highlighting the fact that Dossena was hired to develop the RTW.
Because for a brand like that to grow, you need a strong fashion identity that will lead to selling accessories.

And you can’t hire a designer and ask him to totally disappear behind the ethos of the brand…
 
I was scrolling through his collections on Vogue runaway and his work is amazing. He made a true RTW for Rabanne.

Also went to Rabanne's web site and it's interesting that the prices are super low.
 
Yeah I don’t agree with the points made.
While I think the rebrand wasn’t necessary, I think it was essential for Dossena to move on from the chainmail anyway.
What the analysis lacks is highlighting the fact that Dossena was hired to develop the RTW.
Because for a brand like that to grow, you need a strong fashion identity that will lead to selling accessories.

And you can’t hire a designer and ask him to totally disappear behind the ethos of the brand…
Now I watch the video again, I can see that the analysis is extremely flawed.

I also find the 00s/10s style strategy of brands producing high-octane runway shows solely to sell perfume and makeup to be very flawed and somewhat in bad taste. Luxury customers actually want to interact with a version of the products they see on the runway and a luxury beauty brand can thrive without the biannual six to seven-figure investment of holding a runway show.

Dossena was hired to actually develop a legitimate ready-to-wear division for the brand, not just to create a flickering halo for the perfume. While, I find the merchandising to be a bit messy at times, the brand is moving past the chainmail and metal, something that was desperately needed for the brand to modernise itself.

And it's successful. Very successful

According to WWD, Rabanne has been experiencing "Michele-level" growth in recent years (~40%) and is currently Puig's largest brand, becoming the first to reach and surpass €1bn in revenue last year (two years ahead of their 2021 predictions). They've started on opening physical locations, starting with an Avenue Montaigne store in Nina Ricci's historical location. They've also introduced makeup, which is getting rave reviews and is bound to push the brand further.

I think that the conclusion of flawed analysis comes from the brand isn't going viral every week like the huge players or the "enfants terribles".
 
This video by Under stitch is very interesting, mainly in how it shows the weaknesses of Dossena's Rabanne:

I agree. Dossena's collections for the brand are strong, but the actual brand direction is incredibly weak and inconsistent in how often the aesthetic changes. They also need to get their merchandising on point.

i don't agree with everything she points out, but even i love to buy Rabanne regularly and happy with them i think you can feel the agressive sell-out lately. it's not the clothes it's more the visuals, the soulless merch (similiar to Gucci) and also the look of the photography, the website and social media looks quite corporate, sometimes even like H&M, Sephora or even Shein.

Bildschirmfoto 2024-05-27 um 05.41.01.png

Maybe it's successful to attract like this more of these pre-teen, beauty-crazed Sephora Kids??
 

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