Rabanne F/W 2025.26 Paris

Huge no form my part.
Never been a fan of double-lapels, that's a trick one uses when they are short of ideas for tailoring, and it almost always end very bulky on the torso imho.
The dangling fur tails are too many here, 3 or 5 like at Chloe is easy fun, two dozens per look is forced.
 
I am more on the yes side.

It reminds of Nicolas (and pairing the dresses and long skirts with military boots makes it worse) but I find Dossena's Rabanne more flattering.

Take the black dress with silver... lurex (?), look number eight.
This could perfectly be Vuitton.
Only, it would be more voluminous in the bottom, like you were wearing a crinoline.
Here you don't find that "pushing the enveloppe" that makes often Vuitton look forced.

I liked the mens, it gives an answer on how could be Ghesquière's menswear: maybe like this.

With Julien, I don't think it's as simple as "he is copying Nicolas", like others copy Phoebe or Demna.
They worked together at Balenciaga, they were "very" close for a while... I can imagine, in that situation, the references are the same, and even the influence can be mutual...
 
What's going on between Julien and Nicolas? They've been doing the same design for several seasons now. Maybe love? I like this collection a lot.
 
The Ghesquiere influence is quite obvious, but I'm also seeing a lot of Christopher Kane. The looks with lace and vinyl could have been directly pulled from a Kane runway. Nevertheless, I really like a lot of this. Beyond the conceits—the keyholes, the double-lapels, the foxtails—there are some gorgeous pieces.
 
Why so many fourrure de fantaisie in every show? It screams CHEAP!

I get why they wouldn’t use real one but it’s better not to use anything then.

The collection is very Ghesquière (better than the real Ghesquière actually) and I quite like it for that🫣
 

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