Rag & Bone Mens S/S 11 New York

[Pricciao]

still not something I expect from them.

Show Report
Max Berlinger
10/09/2010

RAG & BONE’S Markus Wainwright and David Neville are known for their palatable and serviceable collections filled with pieces that would easily hang in any man's closet. Last season was a Nordic jaunt filled with rugged pieces that any football loving guy's guy could love. That's exactly why this collection was such an unexpected, and overall interesting, surprise.

Straight from look one, Wainwright and Neville showed that they were thinking of fashion in more directional, non-traditional terms. The cut of their trousers traded its hipster rigidity for a much looser, more liberal fit. Some may even call it baggy. Their collared button-downs - a staple in any man's wardrobe - were rewritten in elongated ratios, marrying ideas of the nightgown with that of the Asiatic kurta.

They expanded their vision to include less obvious garments, for example what they referred to in the program notes as the all-in-one, a play on the mechanics jumpsuit, registered in an inky indigo. There were many blue-collar references, including selvage denim fabrics, which dominated the first half of the show, patchwork motorcycle pants and some uniformly ensembles in a heather grey. But Wainwright and Neville are English boys at heart, something that is ingrained in their aesthetic, and for this outing it subtly came through in tweed shorts and trousers, graphic shirts and highly covetable suede shoes. Experimentation with proportion advanced the show in the way that long garments were layered under shorter outerwear pieces - an overall success that will likely find a home on the streets. When the resonant blues gave way to buttery yellows, burnt oranges and seafoam blues, the collection opened up in pleasant way. There were also some leather shirts towards the end that had us intrigued, to say the least.

Rag & Bone has long been a hot commodity with young buyers looking for something on-trend and with loads of mass market appeal, but it was nice to see the boys push themselves into previously uncharted waters. Their overall vibe was much more forward-thinking than it has been in the past, yet they remained true to the stylistic vocabulary that has brought them much acclaim.

vogue.co.uk

 

[Pricciao]

vogue.co.uk

 

[Pricciao]

vogue.co.uk

 

[fincher]

not a fan of baggy clothes, but some pieces with mirror-print pattern look lovely... i like some jackets too

 

[mikeijames]

i love this new direction....very ysl, very duckie....i'm just curious if they have the retail operation in place to actually sell this stuff.

 

[Fiercification]

I see a lot of nice pieces in this collection...however the styling does them no favours as everything feels very piled on. However I love the variety of colours and the kind of casual elegance that's going on here.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

why can I see Rag & Bone in the mens collection
but the womens it was a bunch of other things

 

[Desi]

I see a lot of nice pieces in this collection...however the styling does them no favours as everything feels very piled on. However I love the variety of colours and the kind of casual elegance that's going on here.

This is what I agree with. The collection itself is not bad by any stretch but the styling is not helping to get that across. Loved several of the jackets and the knits are gorgeous in my opinion.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Now, I'm pleased with pieces but I just want to take the clothes off the models and hang on the rack. Styling here isn't working. But I would love to wear so many pieces here.

 

[afterrhours]

Not the first thing I would expect to see from Rag and Bone and it does look like Duckie Brown as was already pointed out. It's decent, nice colors and jackets, kind of a forgettable collection, although that probably just has something to do with the styling.

 

[Donatello89]

some really nice materials (prints...) but i juste hate outlines :s

 

[simons]

the fits bug me so much. i'm fine with baggy clothes but this is too exaggerated. if everything was shrunk just a little bit, it would have been nice.

 

[Katnani]

Many awesome pieces, but idk, the whole looks a bit...chaotic...