Ralph Rucci : what makes fashion art

[Lena]

from the recent fashion related lectures at NYU, Ralph Rucci talked on his theories about fashion, art and ..perfection

Ralph Rucci evoked a Sunday-like reverence for past and present designers as he spoke at his session, titled “What Makes Fashion Art: A Designer’s Perspective.” Rucci’s theory? It’s not the couture, it’s the couturier. “It’s the person that makes it art,” he said. “It has to do with the couturier’s grasp of historical references and fine art and his understanding of proportion.”

And according to him, in the hands of the right couturier, even a basic T-shirt can be elevated to artistic status. Theoretically, of course. In reality, Rucci, dressed in a crisp open-necked white shirt and gray suit, showed slides of the day and evening work of a handful of designers he adoringly referred to as “touchstones in our profession of a level of perfection.”

Not surprisingly, the designer focused on technique over embellishment. “It’s what’s in the garment, not on the garment,” he explained. “Madame Gres cuts a taffeta dress [from a piece of cloth] the width of this room, and a woman can walk in it and still have a quietude; that for me is genius.” But before getting into the meat of his discourse, Rucci was careful to make the pointed disclaimer that his choices were only that — choices. “Please don’t misunderstand,” he asked of his audience. “This is a personal view.”

The disclaimer, which he revisited a few times within the course of the hour, served as the counterpoint to the impassioned tone with which Rucci detailed the technical artistry of designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, Geoffrey Beene, Madame Gres, Miuccia Prada and James Galanos. “I am from the school of the academy of this man,” he said of Balenciaga. The mantle of “greatest living fashion designer ever” was bestowed upon James. Of Prada, he proclaimed, “Just imagine if we didn’t have Miuccia Prada. It would be rather dull across the board in world fashion.” He even doled out an accolade to fellow speaker Koos van den Akker, sitting in the audience, for his collage work. But it was Madame Alix Gres he saved for last. “I’m ending with the oracle,” he said, embarking on a series of Gres slides. “To me, she is like a church. She is an institution.”

extracts from wwd

 

[Spacemiu]

very intresting, thank you Lena

his comment about Miuccia is a bit stupid in my opinion.

 

[liberty33r1b]

thanks for posting!

 

[Atelier]

I've had the pleasure of very briefly listening to Ralph Rucci talk in person but it's been the print and video interviews (and of course the clothes) that have endeared me to him as an incredible designer.

Fashion writers like Janet Ozzard refer to his "intellectual approach" noting that some of his pieces have been too intellectual at times. Really though, that's Rucci being Rucci. He's never elitist about it either, as this interview Lena posted makes clear by his "disclaimer" usage.

Fall 2004 was gorgeous. The craftsmanship behind Spring 2005 is fantastic. His HC shows in Paris are a treat. Truly a great man.

 

[Astrid21]

^ Well said.

Ralph Rucci is truly one of the few fashion professionals who I see as an "artist" rather than just a "designer". You can sense it in the texture and the silhouettes of his dresses, and the colors are always very vibrant.

Thank you for the interesting story, Lena.

 

[softgrey]

as much as i respect his motives and his techique...i really don't want to wear any of his clothes...
which seems like a problem... his audience seems relatively limited...

he has managed to stay true to himself and to stay independant though...which is an impressive accomplishment...good for him...

 

[Lena]

much welcome astrid , space and liberty

 

[Atelier]

Condolences for Ralph Rucci:

FAMILY MATTERS: Ralph Rucci has nixed his couture show in Paris, which had been set for Jan. 25, following the death of his mother over the holidays, as well as deaths in the families of two of his top assistants. But Rucci said his Chado high-fashion collection for summer would still be produced and presented instead at his ready-to-wear show Feb. 11 during fashion week in New York. Rucci said he plans to return to the Paris couture calendar this July.

(From today's WWD,)

 

[marrimoda]

my condolences as well to this artist.

Always fascinated by his work and courage.

 

[Atelier]

An exhibition of his artwork.

Ralph Rucci: Recent Paintings and Works on Paper

Serge Sorokko Gallery, San Francisco. More info:

http://www.sorokko.com/exhibitions/exhibition_rucci.html

"I Remember What You Told Me"

 

[arlekindearrabal]

he always comes across to me as being very pretentious, even though i recognize the high technique and sophistication of his work... i agree with space about the comment on miuccia prada being a bit stupid... if you're gonna give an acolade to prada, it should be to the design team; we know miuccia doesnt even probably know how to fold a cloth

 

[Alura]

I misread the thread and thought Ralph Lauren, art?!?

Ralph Rucci is a whole other cup of tea of course, nice read.

 

[Lena]

*great artwork, but anyway, i'm biased, i really enjoy his work and his all over style..

pretentious? he must be one of the less pretentious (and the most academic) designers around..

*thanks for bringing this in atelier

 

[tott]

if you're gonna give an acolade to prada, it should be to the design team; we know miuccia doesnt even probably know how to fold a cloth

Miuccia directs and decides, much like Tom Ford did at Gucci I guess. There are design teams in all larger companies, so practically any designer can be explained away by the fact that they didn't do it alone, no?