Random Identities Men's S/S 2021 Milan

[Benn98]

 

[Benn98]

*cough* 3rd year design student *cough*

 

[jeanclaude]

*cough* 3rd year design student *cough*

3rd? I´d say just arrived at Art School!

 

[Mody]

Watching too much Pose?

 

[bc collector]

As a fan of Pilati's, this really puzzles me. It's not just that this is not gender neutral anymore (whatever that may ever mean), it's just a guy wearing women's clothes (mostly).
I know this is prohibited to say these days but men and women are physically different and garments cannot but reflect this basic but today unmentionable truth.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I know this is prohibited to say these days but men and women are physically different and garments cannot but reflect this basic but today unmentionable truth.

As a broad shouldered man it's just unthinkable for me to even try womenswear...the proportion in men and women is so different, I don't know how some people manage...

Other than to impose the impracticalities of womenswear on men, I see no purpose to this.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Wow. I’m speechless over how EDGY this is!!! He put a man in dress! EH-WHAT?! And that man is posing like he’s in a drag ball?! MIND BLOWN!!!

 

[Avonlea]

After seeing all these failed attempts at designing "gender neutral" collection I wonder who really needs it. Women and men are built differently and having that in mind I just cant see a garment that would complement shapes of both sexes. The video above proves that. The model looks miserable.
Sorry but clothes presented wont flatter anyone who is not a twink.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Yikes! Umit Benan's B+ line is much more achievable gender neutral statement than this

 

[Benn98]

Women and men are built differently and having that in mind I just cant see a garment that would complement shapes of both sexes.

Knitwear! As a man, the only women's pieces I've ever worn is knitwear from Pringle, and that's quite easy to get away with if you select the sizes close to yours. In fact, I would argue that the cosier and chunky women's knits take on a better and interesting silhouette on a man's frame.
Stefano has been building on the aesthetic of Random Identities ever since he moved to Berlin, it's very much the vibe in his inner clique, and so I don't think it's forced or an agenda. The concept actually seems authentic to me, and just an extension of his personality and creativity. The actual clothes however are not to my taste at all, and quite frankly I think he's not pushing himself hard enough for someone with so much creative freedom.

God, this thread though. LOL. Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it sounds to me like some of the chatter in this thread is not only opposed to this trite collection (which is justified), but to gender-neutral dressing as a concept? I hope that's not the case because if there are a bunch of men out there who wishes to engage in it and feel confident with the physical constraints of womenswear (and there are), and a brand prefers to cater to them, then what's the harm in that?

 

[bc collector]

God, this thread though. LOL. Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it sounds to me like some of the chatter in this thread is not only opposed to this trite collection (which is justified), but to gender-neutral dressing as a concept? I hope that's not the case because if there are a bunch of men out there who wishes to engage in it and feel confident with the physical constraints of womenswear (and there are), and a brand prefers to cater to them, then what's the harm in that?

There have always been men who wish to engage in the physical constraints of womenswear and they used to be called cross-dressers...nothing wrong in it, obvs, it's just the level of intellectual (and political) pretentiousness that now comes attached with the label gender-neutral, which, IMO, in fashion boils down to not much more than a few shapeless streetwear pieces; the moment you apply tailoring to clothes making, GN goes down the drain.
I would also add that we are not on ground zero when it comes to blurring the lines between men's and women's wardrobe - thanks to, among others, JPG, Rei or Dries (the latter in particular has been incredibly subtle and refined on the subject).
I personally have incredible respect for Stefano and his history as a designer, but, really, this time I have the impression that he got a bit carried away by the insularity of the Berlin club scene.

 

[Benn98]

.....the moment you apply tailoring to clothes making, GN goes down the drain.

Can't recall when last I've heard the term 'cross-dressers', because it's quite archaic and some find it offensive. And when you think of it, that's partly the reason why 'gender-neutral' is so political, because of the stigma attached to it. Without the political, how do you challenge the status quo? I believe once gender-neutral dressing is normalised all the so-called pretentiousness will be stripped away.
It seems like you're too preoccupied with the physical specifics. When a designer modifies a blouse to remove the breast space and broaden the shoulder space for a traditional male frame it, does it mean the piece should be considered as menswear? We are only talking about the clothes here but the movement runs way deeper and personal than that.

 

[bc collector]

Can't recall when last I've heard the term 'cross-dressers', because it's quite archaic and some find it offensive.

Some find it offensive, surprise surprise... much of the conversation on gender-related subjects today is more perilous than tip-tapping on a mined camp.

I'm just saying that there's nothing new on the horizon, designers have been experimenting with gender norms for years and in more compelling and wearable ways than just putting an evening gown on a bloke (can we call it just lazy, rather than revolutionary?).
This whole business of giving new names to old actions has a whiff of empty politics marketing to me.

When a designer modifies a blouse to remove the breast space and broaden the shoulder space for a traditional male frame it, does it mean the piece should be considered as menswear?

Regardless of what you call it, it just means that it will fit a man's body rather than a woman's.