The Full Brazilian
Raquel Zimmermann’s blond hair and blue eyes do not, for most people, immediately say Brazil. But the model who has been the face of brands like Lanvin, McQueen and Shiseido arrived on the fashion scene from Bom Retiro do Sul, a small town in the south of the country, where boatloads of German immigrants began arriving in the 1800s. (Zimmermann’s hometown is not too far from that of Gisele Bündchen, and it’s easy to imagine that the two women share a similar gene pool.) The region is so Teutonic, in fact, that her parents now live in a city called Novo Hamburgo, a Bavarian-seeming burg where many of the old buildings are made of timber.
Because Zimmermann wasn’t raised steeped in samba and coconut water, it came as a surprise when she suggested the Brazilian archipelago of Fernando de Noronha as the place she’d like to go to shoot resort wear. “I figured it was probably time to start exploring my own country,” says the lanky beauty, who has seen plenty of the rest of the world in her 13 years in front of the camera. About as close to Senegal as it is to Saõ Paulo, Noronha is one of the few places on the planet that strikes the right balance between tourist destination and nature preserve, limiting visitors to about 700 a day and strictly overseeing development. It’s a fact that was not lost on Zimmermann, whose obvious pride in her country and boundless curiosity — in her spare time she surfs, meditates and does yoga — was positively contagious. Over two days spent tooling around in dune buggies, the island’s usual mode of transportation, she was hard to keep up with. She navigated across bumpy roads, took to the sea on a tiny fishing boat, hiked over treacherous terrain, chased after lizards, frolicked on hot, burning beaches and put away bowl after bowl of moqueca, the traditional Brazilian fish stew. And when she learned that there was a famous cave on the island called Buraco da Raquel, literally Raquel’s hole, she squealed with delight: “We have to go there!”
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ESSENTIALS • FERNANDO DE NORONHA, BRAZIL
LAY OF THE LAND
Fernando de Noronha, 220 miles off the northeast coast of Brazil, remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets, despite its cavalcade of superlatives: Unesco World Natural Heritage site, sea turtle and spinner dolphin sanctuary, Brazil’s best surfing and diving, and world-class beaches that are shockingly empty. Perhaps that’s because of the long list of rules? No beach construction, no condos or large hotels (only inns called pousadas), no sunscreen in certain tidal pools, no swimming with dolphins, no fishing in depths of less than 164 feet, no free lunch (daily environmental tax: about $25!). Whatever the reason, the “Island of ‘No’ ” — as locals joke — is paradise found.
POUSADAS
• Pousada Maravilha A favorite of Brazilian celebrities, this intimate place isn’t so much about the upscale bungalows as the triumphant views of the postcard-worthy Sueste Bay. BR-363, Sueste; 011-55-81-3619-0028; bungalows from $590.
• Ecopousada Teju-Açu Penélope Cruz and Javier Bardem bedded down at this eco-leaning spot with 12 bungalows surrounding a jungly pool. Estrada de Alamoa, 011-55-81-3619-1277; doubles from $500.
• Pousada Triboju The huge rooms here are rich with recycled native hardwoods, and your breakfast can be served poolside. Rua Amaro Preto 133, Floresta Velha, 011-55-81-3619-1370; doubles from $600.
• Pousada Zé Maria Noronha’s biggest personality runs this inn, where three of the bunglows and six of the standard rooms offer stunning sea views. Rua Nice Cordeiro 1; 011-55-81-3619-1258; doubles from about $490.
RESTAURANTS
• Mergulhão This newcomer with harbor views quickly established itself as Noronha’s most consistently innovative choice, serving dishes like crunchy fish stuffed with shrimp and hearts of palm. Port; 011-55-81-3619-0215; entrees $17 to $58.
• Beijupirá There are just five candlelit tables inside this Grecianesque pousada where the mainland’s signature flattened fish fillets come creatively prepared with pitanga, cashew nuts and other indigenous ingredients. Rua Amaro Preto 470, Floresta Velha; 011-55-81-3619-1250; entrees $29 to $46. • Varanda The chef Auricélio Romão’s kitchen turns out excellent seafood moquecas (coconut milk and dendê oil-based stews) and shrimp with crunchy okra and wild turmeric. Rua Major Costa 130, Vila do Trinta; 011-55-81-3619-1546; entrees for two $31 to $76.
• Zé Maria The hotel’s completely over-the-top Wednesday- and Saturday-night seafood buffets are the stuff of Brazilian legend — and Zé himself won’t let you forget it. Entrees for two $25 to $79.
BEACHES
Brazil’s most consistently voted Top 3 beaches (no small feat) are here. On the outer sea, the rough and wild Praia do Leão is Noronha’s most secluded piece of protected shoreline, 1,640 feet of paradise broken only by the occasional green sea turtle nesting spot. Praia do Sancho’s symmetric swath of beach bound by Atlantic rain forest is reachable no other way (via land) than a claustrophobic, cliff-hugging ladder dropping 230 feet through solid volcanic rock. Next door, Baía dos Porcos’s sugary sand and calm waters take a back seat to the crystalline bay: here, protruding shards of volcanic rock face off near shore, framing the just-distant symbol of Noronha, Dois Irmãos — mountainous twin rocks shooting majestically up from the sea.
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Such talent definitely needs to be showcased. J'adore!!!
but yay for the highlight far a big commercial magazine!!!
I won't say anything. 
