Rewiring Fashion : A New Fashion Calendar?

SophiaVB

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Source: #rewiringfashion



Business of Fashion coordinated a proposed change to the industry and show schedule called Rewiring Fashion. Signaturies include Alyx, Altuzarra, Craig Green, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta, Isabel Marant...

All well & good but seems odd to have a trade publication do this..... I heard that it was initiated via a WhatsApp group Tim Blanks started. Additionally, there was concern this would be an issue with anti-trust legislation as it proposes an industry response to discounting.
 
wow, seems like with this (and there was something in the news about Dries doing something similar this morning ) there’s finally change happening. As a client I prefer sales and down marking but I also understand the problems this causes to both the Maisons and the environment so I’m all for the whole system changing . Good for them to finally address these issues
 
Those initiatives are good but they won’t work if big brands aren’t playing the game...
It’s unfortunately the big brands that generates the energy around fashion weeks. I think to finally have a real conversation is great but there needs to be talks in the federations (CFDA, FHCM And CM), with big brands and governments. I think if Ralph Lauren is behind it in the US, everybody will follow.
For me, it’s a great and logical project. It was foolish for the fashion world to try to keep up with Fast fashion. I think what happened in the second part of the 2010’s proved that everybody can exist in the system without having to compete directly. A Dries’s dress or a Louis Vuitton will always hold their value over a Zara piece. It’s also a time to really reflect on the production.
 
If they want to reboot the system, first they have to get rid of pre-fall and resort collections.

Too much clothes, and no interesting pieces, is pointless. And a waste of time, resources and money.

Just two collections each year, like it was back in the 90s. But two strong ones, full of interesting pieces, is all they have to do. Because if they keep making tons of basics and generic stuff, they are always gonna end into the bargain bin sooner or later...
 
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It is interesting that this plea for change was spearheaded by Dries, who, famously, is pretty much the only big designer who never did pre-collections...
When you are an independent designer (which Dries no longer is, btw) it is maybe easier to go your own way, even if it turns out to be a very bumpy road to go.
But when you are a listed company or conglomerate of companies, who respond to stake-holders and equity partners, well, it takes more than a share of good-will and lack of self-interest to take measures that inevitably will shrink the revenues, at least in the short term.
Will LVMH and Kering be so prone to sacrifice for the sake of the general good? Let me be a bit sceptic on this.
I also wait to see what big independent designers like RL or Giorgio Armani (or Prada, for that matter) will do, especially the latter one as of late being very advocate about the need for a change of speed in the industry.
 
As long as money is the driving force nothing will change. Intellect/common sense should be the driving force.
The longer this pandemic last the more likely changes will happen. But we are creatures of habit and most can't wait to go back to 'normal'.
I would love to see higher quality, less production and more creativity. H&M etc. would be gone and that would be a good thing.
 
Stuff like this can take off for a while, in some way, but I’m sure the big players will find a way to exploit this for their greed and the circus and excess will continue in disguise.

Also I have doubts about this schedule. Everything seems to be on top of each other, men and women combined, in these limited time frames. Same for factories. This schedule would mean a huge workload for them during the design and sampling period, as everything has the same deadline.
 
Just two collections each year, like it was back in the 90s. But two strong ones, full of interesting pieces, is all they have to do. Because if they keep making tons of basics and generic stuff, they are always gonna end into the bargain bin sooner or later...

Working as a designer for brands, I actually often feel that it's the interesting stuff that ends up in the bargain bins, if not already killed before or after the selling-in. But maybe it's not the same everywhere. Still I agree on the two collections a year.
 
I am a big proponent of brands selling a permanent line and reworked classics throughout the entire year at full price with no discounts, and doing two seasonal collections which would help maintain their "it" factor and would potentially be discounted at the end of each season. I mean, Resort and Pre-Fall are already those reworked basics, why do you need collections, shows and so many resources so that you can sell these basics at a discount later anyway? Most people stopped buying designer pieces at full price because they know they will get the chance to buy timeless basics at a discount literally four times a year. Open any e-tailer during sale season and you will find a ton of great seasonless pants, jackets, shirts and leather accessories in their sale section. It is baffling, and a huge problem for independent brands.
 
Working as a designer for brands, I actually often feel that it's the interesting stuff that ends up in the bargain bins, if not already killed before or after the selling-in. But maybe it's not the same everywhere. Still I agree on the two collections a year.

I understand what you are saying. It is also true that most part of customers are clueless about design. All they care is about showing their status to everyone...
 
Op-Ed | Want to Fix the Fashion System? Lower Prices.

According to one New York retailer I spoke with, some brands are now asking for a 4.0 markup at retail, fully expecting most of the clothes to sell at a 40 percent markdown. Which leads us back to the skewed fashion calendar. If a brand expects such a state of affairs, then it's quite reasonable to assume that retailers will want to go on sale early in the season in order to move the merchandise. Hence, if you want markdowns pushed back, start with lowering retail prices, which will allow more people to shop at full price.


Outrageous prices are not good for anyone. They are not good for many brands, as evidenced by the actions we saw last week. When you price your wares too high, they simply don't sell. According to The Economist, even the most desirable luxury brands move barely over half of their clothes at full price. According to Bain, last year €37 billion worth of designer goods ended up in outlets, an 85 percent increase over five years.

High prices are also damaging for high-end shops, creating an image that's out of touch with consumer buying patterns, then lowering that image due to early and heavy discounting. And high prices are certainly not good for consumers. When brands excessively markup their goods, they put them out of reach of most consumers, alienating them in the process.
 
Don't think lowering the prices will do fashion any favours. Lowering prices will create even more an environment of buying more more more items that disappear faster and faster in the trash can. This also puts more strain on designers to turn out more designs.
 
First "let´s change the calendar", now "let´s lower prices"...why is it so hard to face that the real problem here is the overproduction???

So many business analysts and marketing specialists in this industry; but no one dares to see the ugly truth: greedy overproduction is the core problem of the fashion industry.
 
I don't get it...
are they STILL in denial about CLIMATE CHANGE?!?

"fall" happens later than it used to...
it's still way way too warm for sweaters and coats in September...
so they want to make fall deliveries EARLIER?!
wtf?
and then mark downs in January, when it's just getting cold?

they are morons..clearly!!!

ugh!

:doh:
 

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