This is my Giorgio Armani story. I'd seen his shows in my first job, as fashion editor at The Guardian (awed at even being allowed into his hallowed in-house inner sanctum) and later witnessed that entire elder generation of New York corporate power women adopt his trouser suits as their uniform. It was a sociological fashion phenomenon at the time when America was leading the world in feminist optimism, the belief that 'the glass ceiling' was smashed and with of course Roe V Wade, liberation and progress were totally the done deal for women. (The irony, now.)
But this is about 2004, when Us Vogue sent me to travel with Mr Armani to China, where he was opening a store in Shanghai ( 2nd picture, by Norman Jean Roy in Vogue.) We did that, but then he also took me back to Italy, to walk around Piacenza where he was born, and then drive down to his country house outside Milan.
I began this trip petrified. I don't think I am breaking any secrets to say that Mr Armani was known as a stickler and not tremendously warm to journalists. Walking on eggshells was the sum of it - at the beginning. I had no real hope of him allowing a ***** of humanity to show through his monumental reputation.
But walking around Piacenza, he did, in a way that honestly sends chills through me today. Giorgio was born in 1934. In 1944, when he was ten, Piacenza was occupied by the Nazis after Mussolini surrendered. The town was heavily bombed with over 300 Allied airforce sorties (thanks Wikipedia). He showed me the pictures que sights, then took a detour into a backstreet. He stopped at the entrance to an alleyway and said: " This is where I was playing with my friend. He picked up something metal for us to play with. It was a piece of something they had dropped from the air. My friend was killed and I had burns all over my face. I was in hospital being treated for a long time." The hospital was under Nazi supervision.
This was not the end of his suffering as a boy. Hardship and lack of food were of course endemic in Italy during and after the war, but - he was frank about this - because his father had worked somehow (I wasn't clear how) as a state functionary his father was imprisioned for a time, making the family situation all the more difficult for his mother to provide for her children.
As someone brought up knowing nothing but peace, plenty, and the booming eighties and nineties, I thought he was teaching me a lesson.
You are where you come from. He, King Giorgio had come from such a place and time - and he wanted this to be known. It explained a lot to me about how he maintained such an iron and stoic self-discipline all of his life; the need of someone to be totally in control and not reliant on anyone, when they have been in a situation where nothing could be controlled and strangers didn't come with trust. I was almost sobbing, but this was stupid too - because LOOK WHAT HE DID WITH IT!
I think this was very much his point. Next thing, we were off in his car, and I sat in the back hearing him and his driver listening to the radio and loudly joking about the football like a couple of proper Italian blokes in a bar for an hour and a half. This was lovely, unguardedly happy and real
- another totally surprising side of Mr Armani
I also encountered Mr. Silly Armani that day. After a lovely lunch at his mansion, he invited me to see his grounds. Ushering me to his golf cart, he then drove us straight through all the sprinklers on his lawn, laughing uproariously
One soaked Vogue journalist, who from then on felt fond of this far-off perfectionist giant of fashion, and that glimpse into the little boy he hao inside him.
Resquiescat In Pace Giorgio Armani 1934-2025