I have to say there is nothing here to be truly passionate about. Having said that, I haven't seen the whole collection. I missed this show too, but it wasn't accidental (that's gotta be annoying), I have seen the previous two collections in person and the last one was superb. 'Laura Ashley versus Military' was roughly what came across in the press, but I saw it as a mishmash of 40s wartime Britain with florals from washing lines and tea dresses and khaki of officers and rabbit fur from countryside poaching. I loved it so much I can't say. This looks pared down, and reflects both his decision to show off-schedule this season as well as unconfirmed reports of some personal troubles (can't exactly what, but I'm sure will transpire eventually), I hope he gets back soon to what he does best: transgressive, deconstructed, edgy conceptual work with an eye to the beautiful and a focus on fabrics and the process of clothes manufacture.