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Ex-RCA graduates Hilde Rubecksen and Tomoko Yamanaka (Norwegian and Japanese respectively) are the driving force behind this label. Having previously worked for Gucci, Marks and Spencer, Nicole Farhi, and Pringle, they have experience designing for both designer markets and the high street.
This was their third off-schedule show. Entitled 'Knitted Wilderness' the inspiration was derived from Amish simplicity (think Harrison Ford in the 1985 film Witness), animals, elements of traditional menswear, lingerie and the work of installation artist Mark Dion. This melting pot of influences would suggest an eclectic collection of sartorial extremes. Not so. Although the collection is small, the work is in actual fact coherent and well put together. The colour palette was muted yet complementary in shades of cream, pink, beige, silver, charcoal and black.
Feminine garments with a masculine twist dominated throughout. Stand-out pieces for us include dusty pink high-waisted trousers with braces and a silvery grey drop waist dress - worn 1920's style with Jean Harlow hair. Velvet shorts (silver grey again) were cute when teamed with fine cashmere knits. Grey flannel trousers (combined with more dusty pink knitwear) have a timeless elegance. Models possessed an air of 'proper' ladies attending an early 20th century finishing school. The mood was refined and oozed etiquette.
Outerwear comes in the guise of matt black overcoats with interesting details on the lapels. Knitted jackets were also showcased alongside incredibly wearable cotton tulle shirt dresses. Old fashioned accessories included wool stockings, girdles and garters. I wouldn't describe the work as unconventional, but it is very sweet and well mannered.
by Bianca Donnelly
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