Runway Hair S/S 2012

[flyme2themoon]

Better late than never!

I must begin with one my favorites (hair and makeup-wise) from NYFW... Thakoon!

Hair: Odile Gilbert
Makeup: Diane Kendal

THE HAIR: The backstage area at the Plaza Hotel’s Grand Ballroom resembled an art room where students might have been spray-painting. “Don’t get too close!” warned an animated Odile Gilbert, holding up two blue hands. Anyone who did risked inhaling a cloud of clay powder she was peppering onto models’ heads. “Thakoon wanted color in the hair,” she explained. And color he got—blue, green, lilac, terra-cotta, and bright pink in different combinations on each girl’s textured bob (which was actually a variation of two French braids Gilbert pulled back and tucked into a messy chignon to create “the illusion of short hair”).


ON HAIR: Gilbert has been using colored clay (specifically: a multipurpose organic clay powder, otherwise used as an ingestible stomach remedy) in her hair creations for years. For today’s show, she shipped a range of colors over from France, which she used to color the untidy chignons. First, to prep her canvas, she sprayed hair with Kérastase Volume Expansion Spray and worked in VolumActive Mousse to create a crunchy texture that would hold the powder. She dusted the loose powder into the intricately braided styles, and then, with a paintbrush, went over it with color of a different shade, which she had mixed with water to create a paste. “People always want to know, ‘Where is the drama?’ ” she said, paintbrush in hand. “Well, we have to wash all of this off after!” At the ready, postshow: rows of Kérastase Nutrative and Resistance shampoos and treatment masks.

Source: vogue.it, vogue.com

Everyone please feel free to post your favorite S/S 2012 runway hair styles (and the names of the professionals behind them if available)!
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[flyme2themoon]

Jason Wu
Hair: Odile Gilbert
Makeup: Diane Kendal

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THE HAIR: “It’s a three-in-one,” Odile Gilbert said of the multifaceted style—a lift in the front, several twists, and a whole lot of feathers—she was busy creating. “Very nineties” was how she described the resulting graphic mix of bobby pins (intentionally visible in the back) and sleek black feathers. “Something old, something new—like getting married. But it’s not just romantic, it’s strong.”

ON HAIR: Gilbert began with the front of the head, combing the hair upward and back into a subtle lift just above the forehead. Then, gently tugging on small sections of hair, she generously coated strands in Kérastase Lotion Densitive “to give texture” and twisted the pieces up into messy fixtures on the back of the head, securing them with several bobby pins. Between every other pin placement came a gust of Kérastase Double Force Hairspray. “Now the feathers!” she called out to one of her team members, who quickly appeared carrying a handful of needle-like jet-black plumes. Gilbert plucked several at a time, pinning them every which way on the back of the model’s head.

Source: vogue.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Helmut Lang
Hair: Paul Hanlon
Makeup: Lisa Butler

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1. Respecting History.
"This is a brand that hasn't done a lot of hair in the past. There's a respect for me there—I'm not going to go change the world," said TIGI hairstylist Paul Hanlon. "Our inspiration was a girl that's been to a rock concert. She's been dancing and head-banging all night, so she's sweaty. The look should be very easy, organic, and effortless."

2. Get Dirty.
"It's a morning show, so the girls are coming in with clean hair—not the look we're doing," explained Hanlon. To fake dirty strands, he prepped the hair with Tigi Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray and used almost an entire tube of texturizing cream per model. After, he pulled hair into a tight pony using his fingers instead of a brush. "She's not your girl-next-door. She's dangerous."

3. Knotty but Nice.
To get the final look, Hanlon separated the ponytail into two sections and tied each into a knot. A heavy dose of TIGI shine spray gave hair the faux-sweaty look, mimicking how she'd appear emerging from, say, a Metallica concert.

4. The Style Translated.
Real girls should skip all the styling products when trying at-home. "In the real world, greasy hair means dirty," said Hanlon, who recommended using mousse to give the hair texture and a pea-sized amount of serum for shine.

Source: wwd.com, realbeauty.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

David Koma
Hair: Kenna Kennor

Backstage at David Koma one of the most iconic spring/summer 2012 runway looks was created by Kenna and the ghd team. The Koma girl has borrowed from the Polynesian tribes when it comes to her clothes which has been extended to the hair noted Kenna.

Echoing the positive and negative spaces within the collection, hair was pulled back and connected into a futuristic updo. Talking to Glam Kenna explained how he crafted such a style:

“ghd Style Final Fix Hairspray was applied to the roots of the girl’s hair before splitting the hair into 8 sections. Each of these was then pulled into baby ponytails and bound with elastic. It’s important that this was symmetrical and the same on each girl. Next the sections were connected at the centre of the head. Finally we used the ghd Max Styler to straighten the hair.”

Source: vogue.com, glam.co.uk
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[MulletProof]

Good call, flyme2themoon .. the most creative shows are only about to begin to it's perfectly on time.

I love what Odile's been doing.. she goes to such great lengths just for the sake of experimenting and being creative, I love her work.

 

[Psylocke]

I love the hair at David Koma!

 

[MulletProof]

I'm swooning over the braids/buns at John Galliano, I'm such a sucker for that braid + boater hat combo ever since Lyricism F/W 07 (and do it often myself with no shame!).

[stylebistro]

 

[MulletProof]

The hair at Christian Dior was also quite pretty. I'm really feeling lower buns this season so it's good to see them in so many versions.

[stylebistro]

 

[flyme2themoon]

Thank you for posting Christian Dior and John Galliano MulletProof! Loving the hair at both shows---minus the fishtail pigtails. I don't care for pigtails, in general, no matter how they are styled.

Orlando Pita was responsible for the hair at those shows, which explains the similarity with the buns.

 

[flyme2themoon]

Giorgio Armani
Hair: Franco Gobbi
Makeup: Linda Cantello

“Never too glamorous, never too androgynous, with a hint of rock ’n’ roll, Armani walks that thin line between everything,” said hairstylist Franco Gobbi. His goal was to find an effortless and timeless style for an elegant, confident woman.

He applied Bumble and Bumble Holding Spray and twisted sections of hair into different directions for a spontaneous look that was molded and tactile. Small flyaway hairs were retained to soften the twists.

Source: vogue.it (photos), wwd.com (quote)

 

[flyme2themoon]

Yves Saint Laurent
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath

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If last year’s must-have accessory was the YSL cage bootie, this season’s statement piece may be the cage barrette. Palau fastened the large metal hair ornaments, made of stiff concave gold bands anchored to an oblong base, over his teased chignons. “It’s quite womanly and very classic Saint Laurent,” he said of the overtly glamorous look.

Those elaborate hair pieces, made in house by YSL for the occasion, were surprisingly lightweight. Palau playfully tossed one from hand to hand while chatting with McGrath about the look backstage, then got down to work. After blowing hair dry with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry lotion to create smooth texture at the head, he pulled it straight back into a ponytail and teased the length of it. Once he’d wound it into a hybrid bun-chignon, he fastened on the accessory and misted it with Redken Forceful 23 hairspray for hold.

Source: vogue.it (photos), vogue.com (quote)

 

[MulletProof]

That's such a gorgeous piece! I wish I could wear something like that, but it might be too fancy-looking haha, unless you're going to an event or wearing something very low-key, in earth tones perhaps?, I don't know. It looks beautiful as a show accessory anyway.

And I love fishtail braids! too bad I never get them right

 

[flyme2themoon]

Oscar de la Renta
Hair: Orlando Pita
Makeup: Gucci Westman

by Catherine Piercy

“Romance, Renaissance, Stevie Nicks!” said hairstylist Orlando Pita, whose team brushed models’ tightly wound waves into fluffy, feminine, cumulus-like clouds that seemed to hover, near gravity-less, around their shoulders on the runway.

Pita created dozens of tiny braids along the head, then pressed each one between the plates of a flat iron to set the wave in place. After they’d cooled, he unraveled them and began brushing—and brushing—until they’d reached full volume. He finished with a misting of T3 Control Hairspray for good measure.

Of course, those with curly hair (myself included) don't need instructions on how to achieve the texture and volume.

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Source: vogue.com, wwd.com