Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[Lola701]

^^
Exactly,
In life you go further being liked than being competent.
If you are competent and liked, you won the lottery. If you are competent and know « politics », you are safe. If you are liked, competent and know about « politics », you are the king of the world.

And at LVMH, it is really important giving the way Arnault took over.

But, beyond all of that, is it still fair to consider KERING as Arnault’s competition? We have been used to use those terms for 20 years but Louis Vuitton alone is bigger than the whole group. Chanel alone is bigger than KERING. Hermes is Gucci, Saint Laurent and BV reunited.

In some ways, there’s a competition between Arnault and Pinault regarding real estate, celebrities, marketing and talents (designers more than executives) but I feel like their brands don’t even evolve in the same sphere lol.

The moment Arnault put his hands into Fendi to make it as big as Dior, the competition will really have no way to exist…

 

[Frederic01]

LOL


BOF

 

[Frederic01]

Why is everyone leaving Gucci though on a serious note? Surely it cannot be because of Sabato's vision for the brand? What is going on?

 

[NoInvite]

They know exactly who to needs to be changed.

 

[FashionPower]

Alessio Vannetti Gucci chief brand officer /ex Valentino is supposed to be leaving as well now ........not even a year after being appointed ​

I guess the Catino clean up crew has started lol

You are even better than Miss Tweed at this point...we love you!

 

[Creative]

Why is everyone leaving Gucci though on a serious note? Surely it cannot be because of Sabato's vision for the brand? What is going on?

When things go this bad everybody leaves…

 

[tourbillions]

Let them all leave, they all played a role in this failure called ancora

 

[yslforever]

Let them all leave, they all played a role in this failure called ancora

Not exactly. They are mediocre but not the ones who took decisions and strategies.
Gucci at 10 billions, could have gone with 2 CDs like Vuitton and Dior - one menswear and one menswear - or if they really wanted to elevate the brand, cut all the tacky monograms and go the Loro Piana way, with a group of anonymous in-house designers, of the Hermès way, 2 public CDs + designers.
Someone chose Ancora guy, validated Ancora project, decided a documentary etc etc that's way above SdS paygrade.
The rot started at the head.
Looks like Bellettini and others demonstrated the principle of Peter.

 

[Olaffo]

^ this !

I’ve read this nonsense about MCG going to Gucci and ok, she’d probably be much better and create actual desirable pieces but what about menswear ? SdS won’t stay so who would do menswear to make it somehow a story along Greek goddesses in Gucci monogram ?

 

[callmejaeden]

^ this !

I’ve read this nonsense about MCG going to Gucci and ok, she’d probably be much better and create actual desirable pieces but what about menswear ? SdS won’t stay so who would do menswear to make it somehow a story along Greek goddesses in Gucci monogram ?

Kim Jones might feel like returning to Italy...

 

[LadyJunon]

Looking at

Not exactly. They are mediocre but not the ones who took decisions and strategies.
Gucci at 10 billions, could have gone with 2 CDs like Vuitton and Dior - one menswear and one menswear - or if they really wanted to elevate the brand, cut all the tacky monograms and go the Loro Piana way, with a group of anonymous in-house designers, of the Hermès way, 2 public CDs + designers.2
Someone chose Ancora guy, validated Ancora project, decided a documentary etc etc that's way above SdS paygrade.
The rot started at the head.
Looks like Bellettini and others demonstrated the principle of Peter.

Gucci's 2024 revenue is predicted to be €8bn (down from €10bn in 2023), so this is a bad look for everyone involved. I think that a weird mix of all three could work for Gucci. Gucci's road to €15bn could look like this:
- While I dislike the split CD model of LV, Dior and Hermes, Gucci will probably have to go down that road to move forward. I would go with 2 main CDs - one for women's collections, one for men's collection's - and anonymous designers for the other divisions. Of course, the main pair will need to design collections that look good together in stores - less Maria and Kim, more Nadege and Veronique.
- They need to work to create a Gucci "aesthetic" that the brand can always turn back towards. Seeing there that Gucci's CDs consistently pull from the 60s and 70s, maybe a softer, "warmer" version of Ford's aesthetic with few nods to Michele's romanticism (floral, chiffon, flounces). Nothing too agressively eccentric or sexy, but it's very open for CDs to reinterpret to their will.
- They can keep the logoed products, but they need to reduce their dependance on them for long term image reasons. Keep the GG hardware and Gucci stripes for certain product categories and axe the monogram canvas altogether.
distribution
- They need to radically scale back on their distribution - drop the online stockists like Ssense and FWRD and focus on their flagships and small selection of reputable stockists. If they want to be really radical, they could make the logoed products strictly DTC to fully control where their logos are sold.
- They should develop and prop up their beauty division. Rebrand Guilty, Bloom and Flora to look more harmonious next to each other. Incorporate the makeup into the marketing - the fact that Gucci doesn't do runway/campaign/red-carpet makeup looks like Dior and Chanel is a missed opportunity.
- They need to be much more ambitious with how they present the products. The formula of a single model shots, logoed products and a stripped down studio setting really isn't for a €10bn brand, especially for the main season campaigns. They could pull a few pages out of Giannini's book with the sort of campaigns done during her tenure.

 

[LadyJunon]

Next cruise show is in Florence on May 15:

 

[carla56]

Next cruise show is in Florence on May 15:

LOL LOL, so he'll stay?! Crazy!

 

[yslforever]

Next cruise show is in Florence on May 15:

BaCk To The RoOts !!!
LiVE FROM the PRATO swEAtshops !

 

[Olaffo]

Don’t think he’ll survive until May 2025…

 

[jeanclaude]

Today I discovered this, while at a haberdashery (and I browsed google for pics )

wallapop.com

todocoleccion.online/

cdnwnd.com

cloud10.todocoleccion.online

cloud10.todocoleccion.online/

 

[FashionPower]

BaCk To The RoOts !!!
LiVE FROM the PRATO swEAtshops !

The amount of silly delusional people who still think that high fashion leather goods are produced in innovative production lines with great industrialization and pristine work conditions while in reality they are mass produced in basically dirty and old sweatshops is astonishing...and on Instagram I still see comments like: "yeah the YSL LouLou puffer smells so good, they must have a dedicated manufacturing process for them"

 

[LadyJunon]

The amount of silly delusional people who still think that high fashion leather goods are produced in innovative production lines with great industrialization and pristine work conditions while in reality they are mass produced in basically dirty and old sweatshops is astonishing...and on Instagram I still see comments like: "yeah the YSL LouLou puffer smells so good, they must have a dedicated manufacturing process for them"

The fact that luxury customers were more upset that Dior's bags cost €57 to make than the labour conditions they were made under says a million words on how luxury customers think.

 

[reese06]

The fact that luxury customers were more upset that Dior's bags cost €57 to make than the labour conditions they were made under says a million words on how luxury customers think.

People should be able to think for the themselves but they don't and in their defense, many of the headlines focused on the price of production for sensationalism instead of the sweatshop conditions. As we know, many people don't get past the headline, so it becomes "4500 Dior bag cost $58" instead of the real issue.

 

[Xone]

Next cruise show is in Florence on May 15:

So maybe next september...at this point it seems that Cantino gave him a chance...maybe Ancora guy danced for him? lol...