Sharon Wauchob S/S 2024 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[MulletProof]

beautiful.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Like a whisper of fresh air. Every piece has their place in the collection. I'd like to see her at Lanvin with her light and romantic touch, or at least this kind of sensibility again.

 

[thiago:)]

Amazing. Everything looks so good and delicate.

 

[Phuel]

When London fashion week has become the skankier, stankier, rankier version of NYFW’s stench of weed/incense/BO-drenched flea market-stall fashions, Sharon truly is that single woman standing of individual refinement, discipline and eccentric ingenuity that was once London fashion week. She’s just too good for these lessers while presenting a minimum offering— because, really who needs clownwear, or 100+ looks and 800 separates from the conglomerates— When her design vision is so precise and to the point: It’s not for every women— and that’s the point of high fashion.

Still not sure of that marabou trim that she’s so fond of. I guess her customers dig it… Everything else is so confidently supreme in design discipline, and yet so easygoing and effortless. From the voluminous ruched trimmings that never overpower the design— nor the wearer, to those amazing men’s style boxer shorts with the bit of lace peaking out and gorgeously warped by the touch of ruched volume that actually flatter a woman’s (…maybe this’ll change your mind about pettipant-esque designs, Mullet???) are just some of the masterful designs she employs so seemingly effortlessly. In a fair and just fashion industry, she would be the rightful heiress to restore Helmut Lang's womenswear to its former full glory.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I have to admit : this is nice ! Just the right amount of looks.

 

[MulletProof]

to those amazing men’s style boxer shorts with the bit of lace peaking out and gorgeously warped by the touch of ruched volume that actually flatter a woman’s (…maybe this’ll change your mind about pettipant-esque designs, Mullet???)

NO!

These are a little nicer, but still.. I know they will look hideous in real life (truth be told, I'm traumatized by the pettipants a co-worker showed up in the other day.. I can't make peace with them anymore lol).

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL

These sorts of pieces need to be layered— preferably with a long coat, cardigan/jacket, and solid footwear (like the Ann D boots…), just peeking out from the longer, more covered pieces. I can’t imagine wearing it on its own, and in a work environment seems so inappropriate no matter how creative such environments may be….It’s like if I were to show up for a work on a shoot wearing Speedo... There was this model who showed up for a shoot in what is essentially stringy lingerie and sandals. She sat in the studio shivering when she wasn’t under studio lights. It comes across as hilariously inappropriate as people that show up in court like they’re going to the clubs LOL

 

[MulletProof]

^ haha! I was thinking to myself 'am I my prudish aunty now for clutching my pearls over her shorts?'. We had a meeting with some high-profile clients and she was wearing that and doing a demonstration around a box that was on the floor and I'm thinking to myself 'girl...no.. don't...', and of course she did, she did lean and gave us all a glimpse of her old/loose/jersey thong and I can tell you no one was looking at the box, nor lusting, just..

I do think there might be potential but just as long as you focus on what matter, the trim, clearly you're not wearing them because the upper part is awesome so make sure you keep the focus on the important part.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That’s so pricelessly, hilariously inappropriate LMFAO

You know, the people that believe dressing up for a court date is the same as dressing up for the clubs are of a certain mentality, so I can excuse their lack of etiquette. But your galpal just seems to lack self-awareness-- or maybe an exhibitionist…

Many of Sharon’s separates aren’t ideal for the work environment— no matter how liberal that environment may be. Those wispy marabou feathers floating about would be an irritation for work, and likely end up pulled out or greasy and limp, like a sloppily plucked chicken by the end of the day.

 

[gallianostan]

not seeing the appeal here. there's nothing interesting or groundbreaking about this. we may be in dire fashion times but if this were shown ten - or maybe twenty - years ago, it would make absolutely zero noise.

 

[MulletProof]

^^^ That’s so pricelessly, hilariously inappropriate LMFAO

You know, the people that believe dressing up for a court date is the same as dressing up for the clubs are of a certain mentality, so I can excuse their lack of etiquette. But your galpal just seems to lack self-awareness-- or maybe an exhibitionist…

Many of Sharon’s separates aren’t ideal for the work environment— no matter how liberal that environment may be. Those wispy marabou feathers floating about would be an irritation for work, and likely end up pulled out or greasy and limp, like a sloppily plucked chicken by the end of the day.

It's a whole (and admittedly interesting) social phenomenon of intentionally disregarding self-awareness as a result of the 'I'm unique!' Bushwick resident complex + trust fund kid reality. They know showing up with dry saliva around their mouths (meaning they woke up 20 minutes before being at work and didn't even see a mirror), terrible hair, see-through clothes or any other questionable elements gets a pass because something else is carrying their credibility for them.

I often see pieces in SW collections that I could see myself wearing at work to be honest, but then, pearl-clutching aunty, I do have days when I look like I'm heading to the opera at 8 am. Dress for the job you want!

 

[Phuel]

^^^Of course. Hope she’ll shed that phase in her attitude (for doing a presentation in front of client with your g-string outline visible is never really cool-- no matter the environment… unless she’s a 65yo woman who’ll likely snap back at you for be ageist/misogynist/patriarchal LOL

not seeing the appeal here. there's nothing interesting or groundbreaking about this. we may be in dire fashion times but if this were shown ten - or maybe twenty - years ago, it would make absolutely zero noise.

All design grounds have been broken years go. Fashion is only chugging along these days with pure greed based on desperate gimmicks/logos and monograms/representation.

Sharon’s isn’t groundbreaking at all. Nor is she for every women, so I get the criticism that it’s not interesting. What it is is so razor-sharp precise in whom she’s designing for, with her masterclass dressmaking/tailoring skills and talent. And it's true that were we back in the 90s/2000s, she would simply be another London-based talented dressmaker on Saville Row. But within the context of 2023 fashion, where clownwear, dragwear and sloppy arts-and-crafts projects dominate as “inclusive and diverse representation", she’s so unshakeably true to the long lost art of pure dressmaking and tailoring: No desperation to be a part of a fashion week; no desperation for attention with theatrics; no editor/editorial-baiting with showpieces; no desperation for clout and hype with logo/mongram infections; no stunt/celeb casting… She’s just quietly and confidently plugging away creating fashions for a certain woman. Garce Wales Bonner possesses that similar quiet, calm and effortless vibe that I’m drawn to more and more these days. Again, it’s not for everyone, not for every women— and it’s fashions for adults.

 

[LadyJunon]

Sharon’s isn’t groundbreaking at all. Nor is she for every women, so I get the criticism that it’s not interesting. What it is is so razor-sharp precise in whom she’s designing for, with her masterclass dressmaking/tailoring skills and talent. And it's true that were we back in the 90s/2000s, she would simply be another London-based talented dressmaker on Saville Row. But within the context of 2023 fashion, where clownwear, dragwear and sloppy arts-and-crafts projects dominate as “inclusive and diverse representation", she’s so unshakeably true to the long lost art of pure dressmaking and tailoring: No desperation to be a part of a fashion week; no desperation for attention with theatrics; no editor/editorial-baiting with showpieces; no desperation for clout and hype with logo/mongram infections; no stunt/celeb casting… She’s just quietly and confidently plugging away creating fashions for a certain woman. Garce Wales Bonner possesses that similar quiet, calm and effortless vibe that I’m drawn to more and more these days. Again, it’s not for everyone, not for every women— and it’s fashions for adults.

Alaïa's dream lives on!

Jokes aside, this really is the most optimal modus operandi for a fashion house these days, especially with stories of Elena Velez and Dilara Findikoglu stressing over the financials of their next runway show before even securing a solid customer base.

^ haha! I was thinking to myself 'am I my prudish aunty now for clutching my pearls over her shorts?'. We had a meeting with some high-profile clients and she was wearing that and doing a demonstration around a box that was on the floor and I'm thinking to myself 'girl...no.. don't...', and of course she did, she did lean and gave us all a glimpse of her old/loose/jersey thong and I can tell you no one was looking at the box, nor lusting, just..

Cupcakke's newest single: Sharon Wauchob's Pettipants!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Haha… Unlike our girl Elena, Sharon doesn’t appear to be pining for fame and fortune at the expense of her family and whatever else she can hustle to be that much closer to the fashion system. Maybe that’s admirable to someone who is desperate to make at any expense, but I'm not feeling it.

Whatever security and stability to her career she’s developing, she isn’t out there begging/hustling/complaining on social and whatever else. And if her brand is suffering financially, she’s not out there begging for stockists. A designer who just lets her craft speak for her seems to be doing well— especially when the offering is always so minimal, and with barely any hype other than these lookbook/product shots to introduce her fashions every new Season. I really admire individuals like Sharon’s approach to fashion. Her, Grace Wales Bonner and to an extend, Sarah Burton’s last 5 years or so at McQueen— at least the seasonal presentations, because— of course there are always the merch and the celebs when corporations are involved, these 3 have made fashion worthwhile when it comes to what matters. There’s such a calmness, a confidence, a sincerity to design, and a complete lack of pretence and hype dispute the talent competence, and most importantly to me, a lack of desperation to be relevant in the current fashion hierarchy. (I was thinking about snatching up a few suitings/coats from Sarah’s McQueen. But frankly, the pieces I’m attracted to, I really have no place to wear them to. And unlike Mullet’s galpal, I really don’t enjoy dressing inappropriately for work or overdressing in my personal time LOL)

 

[MulletProof]

^ I never mustered enough energy to read the article on Elena.. I heard her some time ago on a podcast and enjoyed her, but not enough to want to learn more. I will say.. I think the circumstances are so different and Sharon is more of an equal to Olivier than to Elena, same generation (late 40s-50s). Their (Sharon and Olivier's) work does exude the calmness and quiet confidence of many years in the industry, of this not being their first rodeo and having already gone through the hype and what follows it: respectability, attention, expectation and the fickleness of it all, including defeat. They both still struggle but they seem to be in another stage where it's not about proving anything (the people who need to know them already know them), but finding a nice rhythm between viability and creativity.

That's not the case at all for Elena or any other young designer right now, they do need to be louder and read into the times and cater to whatever the current spirit of the generation expects from a designer, which I assume involves disclosing personal information to be 'relatable'. I do feel for them because the part that affects them most is not the sacrifices or even the socioeconomic disadvantages, but the lack of creative rigor in fashion right now.. there is no criticism, everything is commercial, so no one has that fire to truly challenge or force their vision into the consciousness of a specific type of consumer and refine it over and over aggressively and discriminately, which is what benefitted the likes of Sharon and Olivier, who were lucky enough to have rising careers in a truly exciting period in fashion where so many people were undeniably good and/or better than them so they had no choice but to rise to the occasion if they expected to survive. Elena is showing in the worst city to get incentivized and even if she followed the Sharon template and went to Paris, Paris is also trash atm.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ In an era where sympathy and guilt are powerful allies to fame and fortune, and begging strangers online will actually fund your ambitions (… I knew someone who set up a GoFundMe to acquire a $500USD toy— and he succeeded LOL). It’s still a choice to bare it all and utilize sympathy for profit. Grace Wales Bonner is the same age as Elena, and whether it’s circumstances or better fortune-- or just personality, her approach to how she presents herself seems free of the usual trappings of social. To their own of course— but, don’t cry about the criticisms when you’re crying for profits.

 

[MulletProof]

^ I really do need to read that article!.. can someone send a 50-word summary or an audio version .. cause I really have -0 patience for that combination of topics (industry in numbers, New York, trouble in paradise, collections I haven't seen and will never see, contemporary tragedy, debt, fundamentally ugly clothes, American sense of entitlement).

 

[Not Plain Jane]

adore the ethereal elements she always includes in her concise collections
she knows how to drape a woman's body in sensuality - whether it's a suit, silky pjs, a sheer dress, or feathers...