Shida Tatsuya S/S 2012 Tokyo

[user500]

fashionsnap.com

 

[user500]

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[user500]

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[user500]

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[softgrey]

woah- what is this?!
it looks like a comme and junya mash up!!!...

who is this ?
is it a designer or a brand?
and is it the same pricepoint as cdg and junya?!...

it's such a literal copy...
it's not bad...but it's completely derivative...
...

 

[runner]

it's a designer.
his first season was F/W 10. this is his fourth.
I don't know well about the prices of his clothes. but I believe it's not as expensive as junya etc.
maybe such pricepoint as tricot ?

 

[user500]

after last seasons presentation was a bit unflattering i am pleased he did such a good show. i am seeing him not as a copist, but as someone who is following his own visions,
for sure his work is influenced obviously in some places; you can see very much tao and junya in the first outfits (especially tao f/w 07 came into my mind).

i really love the last six looks!

defense!

 

[softgrey]

thank you runner......

i had a look around and found the thread from fall...
once i saw it i remembered who this is...and i didn't really like that...
this is SO different from that one...
and i do like some of it...

but user500-
how can you say it's not the same as junya and comme?
it's all the colours, all the details,- ruffles, polka dots, cropped trench coat...etc
and then all the striped sailor stuff from junya's spring 2011 collection...

what it really looks the most like to me is comme des garcons comme des garcons...
*and it makes sense what runner says- it looks like it should be the pricepoint of tricot...or comme comme

it's much better than the last season...and i do like it...
but it is so odd that he would completely use the design vocabulary of the comme universe without actually being part of it...
i just don't think he put enough of his own originality into it to keep it from looking really obvious that he is a HUGE fan of the comme universe...

maybe he is trying to get a job at comme?!?...
...

*would be interesting to know what any review might say about what the designer's idea was behind this collection...

 

[user500]

i see what you mean. it may look very derivative with all the elements you pointed out, primarily in the first half of the show.

softgrey, you must look at the two first collections as well, they`re good (and they are on tfs as well). i believe then you can see what are the underlying ideas in his work.

i don`t know any good site for reviews about the tokyo shows in english language, unfortunately. on wwd you can only find descriptions.

 

[mishahoi]

thank you runner......

i had a look around and found the thread from fall...
once i saw it i remembered who this is...and i didn't really like that...
this is SO different from that one...
and i do like some of it...

but user500-
how can you say it's not the same as junya and comme?
it's all the colours, all the details,- ruffles, polka dots, cropped trench coat...etc
and then all the striped sailor stuff from junya's spring 2011 collection...

what it really looks the most like to me is comme des garcons comme des garcons...
*and it makes sense what runner says- it looks like it should be the pricepoint of tricot...or comme comme

it's much better than the last season...and i do like it...
but it is so odd that he would completely use the design vocabulary of the comme universe without actually being part of it...
i just don't think he put enough of his own originality into it to keep it from looking really obvious that he is a HUGE fan of the comme universe...

maybe he is trying to get a job at comme?!?...
...

*would be interesting to know what any review might say about what the designer's idea was behind this collection...

I think one thing that is frustrating for both young Japanese designers, and also people who are watching what those people do, is getting out of the shadow of CdG while still celebrating the inroads the brand has laid. This, I am referring to as the general idea of rejecting the body in the shape as seen from a Western eye. These kids have grown up with this aesthetic and is not necessarily owned by CdG anymore as it is seen in so many local brands nowadays. Even mintdesigns, without their original textiles, could be considered derivative of CdG.

Shida's designs I find to be so much more colorful and fun. They are also more accessible, better price points.

The designer was inspired by a marine style, and the patterns and colors come from Showa-era postcards he said he collects. I do short reviews on my blog, I think it's linked in my profile

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the explanation on the designer inspiration!
it's obviously a nautical influence...
again- no one owns the nautical them, but the way it is interpreted is a different story---
(hello! junya S/S 2011~!)
i appreciate that comme and its universe are bound to influence young designers-
and i'm glad of that on a personal level...
i just want to see them add something of their own to the vocabulary...

Shida's designs I find to be so much more colorful and fun. They are also more accessible, better price points.

but the only 'colour' in this collection is hot pink, red and olive green---
all signature comme colours...
(i'm leaving khaki, black, white and navy out, as they are neutrals)

if the designer did these shapes in colours or prints that were his own, then i could say that it was not completely derivative...
at least then there would have been some personal perspective to the design vocabulary...

i definitely welcome a lower price point...
but...
i have to say that i would never pay comme prices for this...
because it feels a bit like buying a knock-off to me...
...

* i still like it though......
i can't help it...it's soooo much like comme and i totally love the cdg universe!!!...
...

 

[Scott]

i dunno i kind of agree with softie on this.....it does seem rather derivative stylistically of comme,junya,tao and maybe a splash of limi. i wonder though how the pieces look apart? i always feel you don't get a real sense of a collection till you look at it up close and apart. they may have a different kind of identity to them.

and to me it's fine to take that groundwork rei,yohji,koji tatsuno and issey laid,but it's another to live quite literally in their shadow. and i get the notions of redefining of the body ideals--it's definitely a concept that's become a real design perspective---but it's quite another to take that and make it one's own definition. i think i remember a japanese editor complaining at one time(it was written in the hanatsubaki magazine some years ago)that she wished more young japanese designers would create their own identities instead of recycling the ideas of the aforementioned and martin margiela. she said of course in a much harsher way though. and we certainly have experienced that but perhaps not enough as we would presume of japan and all its freedom of creativity.