Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2015

[marcBarna]

By Miles Socha

Forget the buy-now-wear-now mantra of pre-fall dressing. “Wrap yourself in something warm,” was Julie de Libran’s come-on at Sonia Rykiel, where her second collection for the storied Left Bank house was headlined by fuzzy outerwear, checkered flannel and even knitted union suits. It was an enveloping, shrugged-on attitude that built on the retro-tinged vision of her runway debut.

Inspired by images of a Rykiel show in the Seventies showing turbaned models twirling in floral fabrics, de Libran visited Liberty London to trawl through its archives. As a result, she spliced stripes into filmy Liberty silks and jacquards for transitionally breezy dresses and jumpsuits. But the bulk of the lineup seemed to bank on sub-zero temperatures: densely textured knit capes and jackets, curvy pea coats with Watteau backs and even a hoodie in knitted sable. “Brady Bunch” sweater vests, mannish tailoring and high-waisted jeans telegraphed the effortless Parisian cool de Libran is plying.

wwd.com

 

[marcBarna]

Full Collection



style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[Littleathquakes]

great collection. the colors, the textures, the shapes.

 

[krncandi]

ugh once again i'm not liking Julie de Libran's Rykiel take. This looks like any other Parisian designer and not enough Rykiel. Plus it looks so serious and sad...where's all the feminine fun? She needs to use colors and prints more instead of constantly using monochromes and neutrals. Where's all the color clashing stripes, the knitted typography, lurex, pom poms, intarsia and jacquard lips and hearts?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's definitely going to sell better than the last designer's collections. But the problem with clothes like these is that now Sonia Rykiel is going to be known as the mumsy Isabel Marant. I know Slimane has made luxury clothes that look like fast fashion a thing but I worry with collections like these Sonia Rykiel will become just another generic name in the vast ocean of designers. Julie de Libran is talented but she's never going to show us something we haven't seen dozens of times before.

Not sure if I will even bother to look at the collection come March.