News
August 17, 2006
The House that Jack Built
Techno reclaims the runways
Long before Kate Moss hooked up with Pete Doherty, the runways had been running away from electronic music. Hedi Slimane's stick-thin rocker schtick may have crossed over to the techno community — Minus artist Troy Pierce, for example, typifies Dior's minimalist incursion into Berlin's minimal-techno scene — but from the shows to the magazine spreads, fashion's sound and aesthetic remains driven by loud guitars and rock iconography. (It's ironic to think that only a few seasons back, Slimane tapped F-Communications' Readymade FC to soundtrack his presentations.) But a new spate of fashion/techno crossovers suggests that rock's runway hegemony may be ending.
Producer, DJ, and owner of the Bpitch Control label
Ellen Allien announced the release of her
first-ever collection this month after several years of hinting. The globetrotting DJ is known for an elegantly rumpled, quintessentially Berlin sense of style, so it's no surprise that her shirred dresses and separates, fusing 19th-century peasant shapes with an understated Bohemian femininity, come with the instructions "ironing is forbidden." Allien designed the collection in collaboration with Markus Stich, an alumnus of Dior, Lanvin, and Plein Sud. Other potential collaborations are even more intriguing: Allien reports that she's in talks with the androgynous, Goth-inclined designer
Rick Owens for a possible multimedia project.
But techno-sartorial crossovers are going the other way, as well. The press release for Danish minimal techno producer
Trentemøller's debut album intriguingly noted the collaboration of one Henrik Vibskov on percussion; the Vibskov in question is none other than the Saint Martins-trained
designer and visual artist, known to shoppers of obscure Berlin boutiques and Honolulu's exclusive
Aloha Rag alike for his dandyish shapes, origami imagery, and psychedelic use of color. "Yes, I am the drummer guy as well," confirmed Vibskov in an email far more minimalist than his designs. Perhaps Trentemøller is rubbing off on him.
-PS