Model Teddy Quinlivan Would Like You to Know That Fashion Is "Kind of Like the Mafia"
by Stephanie Eckardt | June 27, 2018 8:00 am
Since Nicolas Ghesquire discovered her in 2015, the Boston-born model Teddy Quinlivan has seemed to exist in public only to do the absolute most, whether it's on the catwalk (she's already dominated dozens of them this year) or on her Instagram (she enjoys a heart-shaped nipple pasty), or sounding off at length on the modeling industry.
Quinlivan is most known for, as she repeatedly put it on the phone last week, her strong personality," though she also has quite the strong, no-nonsense work ethic. When she cuts to the chase, as she so often does, the two can combine to make her equal parts snappy and sassy. (Take, for example, the makeup tutorial she filmed for W above; before she'd even finished shooting, she'd already come up with a list of title suggestions for the video, from "How to Conceal the Fact That You're Actually a Hag" to "How to Look Like a Dewy B----.")
Between the bleeps, and in the two images she creative-directed below, though, you'll find that Quinlivan is actually quite a pro when it comes to makeup. That might be for the same reason that she gained more Instagram followers than any other model last fall, when she came out about growing up as and being transgender. Just as she predicted, the topic has followed her ever since, along with, as of this spring, her story of sexual assault not that she minds at all. On the contrary, she's happy to discuss both, as well as her current mission to only work with those who haven't been accused of sexual assault, and to reminisce on her days wearing black lipstick and strategically baggy sweatpants so that she could shoplift skinny jeans. She was even game to do so on the morning of her 24th birthday after a quick yawn and recap of the "fabulous" time she'd had wearing pretty much only SPF at Rockaway Beach, in New York, the day before, that is.
It's not uncommon for people committed to clothes and makeup to say it all started when they were a kid, but from the photo you Instagrammed the other day, it looks like for you it goes back to when you were in diapers. What came next after that?
I started wearing makeup whenever I could get my hands on it, which later meant when I could break into my mom's closet or medicine cabinet. I didn't start doing it publicly, though, until middle school, where one of my best friends was this emo girl. She loved Hot Topic and would get all this cheap black makeup there, black lipstick, black eyeliner, black everything, and because she was wearing it, I wanted to wear it, too. Of course my parents never would have let me, so every day I'd show up to school, head to the bathroom to change out of my boy clothes and into something more feminine, and then go to her locker, where I'd stick her black eyeliner in my eyeballs and put on this Maybelline foundation that I thought was major but was way too tan for me. I shoplifted it as quickly as possible and also had no idea what shade I was. I put it on my lips too, so 13-year-old me had superblack eyes with tan, orangey skin and ultra-nude lips. It's only now I realize how crazy I looked.
I was all about the fishnet arm warmers from Hot Topic, so I can imagine.
Same. I wanted to wear all of that too. I'd buy it in secret and wear it to school, but then it'd go missing, because my parents would find out and throw it away. My parents wouldn't let me buy girl clothes or anything like that, and since they didn't give me money for the clothes I wanted and I didn't have a job, I'd just shoplift things. I was a bad kid. I'm not going to name the store, because God forbid they find out how much I actually stole and sue me, but I'd go into the fitting room wearing these baggy sweatpants and walk out wearing the skinny jeans that my mom wouldn't let me buy underneath. My mom would ask where I was getting it all from and why they'd still have the tags on, because I'd even go to school sometimes with the security tags still on the f---ing pants. I was horrible.
When did you finally branch out from all black?
When I became a day student at my boarding school, which was after I'd come out as trans and all of that stuff. That was the point where I really started to invest heavily in war paint. I'd spend the full hour it took to get to school doing my makeup, and then redoing it before going into the cafeteria for dinner because I didn't know about powder and I wanted to impress my crush, who was like the hottest guy in school. I think I'm too cute for him now, but he played the flute, too, so everyone knew that he had magic fingers. Anyway, I was buying tons and tons of makeup and going on Style.com to try to re-create all of these Pat McGrath looks for shows like Nicolas Ghesquire at Balenciaga and John Galliano at Dior. I still had absolutely no idea how to do it, so it was tragic. But I thought it was fabulous.
So when did you finally learn to make it look...
Not totally disgusting? I started going on YouTube, where I learned that there were actually steps and techniques, but mostly I learned a lot backstage at shows and on shoots. But I don't think I was actually a good makeup artist until I was in my twenties.
What looks have you been into these days?
For whatever reason, J.Lo's kind of dewy, glowing, sultry, traditionally sexy makeup aesthetic has really been on my mind lately. It's my go-to look for summer, and for knowing that boys are going to hit on me if I go out, because sometimes you want to be hit on. When I'm wearing a full fantasy, all the queens gag for it, but at the end of the night, you're not going to go home with a hottie. But coming out as trans has given me a lot more room to be more eccentric in how I style myself without people rolling their eyes. For me, coming out explained a lot to people in the LGBTQ community, because being a part of or not being a part of it has differences, which definitely includes things you have license to say. Like, if you show up somewhere and you're like, "Yas hunty, slay, I'm gagging," you know, people are going to be like, What's up with this cisgender girl? I'm so lucky to be part of a community that has a history with beauty and fashion, and that's so culturally artistic and open and eccentric and fun and flamboyant and fabulous and contoured and glittery. After I came out, it felt like I could run with it as far as it could possibly take me. When people suddenly find out you're not what they think you are, you kind of get a bit more license to be crazy. So when I moved to New York, I was like, I'm going to wear whatever I want and be fabulous, and no one's going to stop me.
When you came out, you also made a point to say how fortunate of a position you were in, which also gave you the platform to draw attention to the many trans people who are so often subjected to violence. Especially as you've gained even more of a following, have you come to think of your Instagram as a similar platform?
I try to make the message of my Instagram the same as the core of the one I tried to make when I came out as transgender: that you can be and do whatever you want, create your own rules, and still be really successful. Hopefully, it's a window into how it's possible to have gone through a lot of hard s--- and not only come out of it, but also be able say that you don't care what people think, and do what makes you happy. It's also a platform I can use to express how my moods range, and how I don't decide to be, like, a full-blown fashion queen every day. There's a lot of days where I just want to be like, average cis queen, you know what I mean? It can be the debutante, the spy, the average girl, the sporty girl, whatever. I just decide when I wake up.
On the other hand, you're very consistent when it comes to being outspoken. Have you always been so comfortable with saying what's on your mind?
I'm one of the very few fashion models who very openly voices whether they like or dislike something. For models to have an opinion, and especially to publicize it, it really rubs people the wrong way, because they don't think that you'™re entitled to it. I think people get the impression that I'm a b--- or a negative person, but I love this industry, and I also love that Instagram gives me a place to throw out ideas and see if people disagree, or go so far in agreeing with me that they thank me.
I don't get mean on Instagram; I'll read a b---- for filth and spill the tea on there, but I'm not just going to be mean and come for somebody. But recently, I've been finding out that my account can really upset some people, so now I'm basically trying to balance having such a strong personality and representing it on social media with paying attention to the very sensitive people who'll call me out for being sassy about my Tinder date. I just think it'd be inauthentic to always only show one side of myself when I'm a multidimensional person, which means that sometimes I'm in a really friendly mood, and sometimes in a sassy mood. And I feel like my fans and the people who are willing to follow my life deserve a level of authenticity, which is also really what sells in 2018. That's true even if you're f---ed up and have problems, because just being able to share and discuss them openly is something people really value.