The Row Pre-Fall 2023 Paris | the Fashion Spot

The Row Pre-Fall 2023 Paris

Except for the last look, in which the model looks like she wrapped herself with a duvet cover. It's a decent offering.

I like the first section, it has that straightforward Jil Sander spirit in it.
The outerwears are gorgeous, with a lot of great coats.

Maybe the evening section can be better with more streamlined styling. It's too busy.

Overall I enjoy this collection, and the evolution of the sisters shows great promise.
 
Funny how this brand comes off as absolutely that quiet, small and confident atelier that’s simply plugging away, doing their own thing and dressing a very specific clientele in 2022, when they may likely have been dismissed as absolutely a product of commercial opportunity when they started over 15 years ago. It’s frightful how commercially non-distinct the majority of brands have become now in an even more gentrified and evermore greedy industry.

I get that they’re still dismissed nowadays for their repurposed OG Jil/OG Calvin/Yohji and even Lemaire. That they’ve curated all these Greats into a directional, cohesive and confident whole really is such a welcome in these Insta-by-number fashion days. And frankly, it’s easy put these looks together with vintage from their reference sources and a careful selection from Lemaire’s Uniqlo. But that’s beside the point, and that there’s a label offering high-end versions of a simplicity in a polluted ocean of sloppy faSHON is deserving enough for praise.

(God… what a palette-cleanser this is after being assaulted by that seemingly never-ending slop of excess at Balmain LOL)
 
I like seeing Sybil Buck modelling again! The clothes doesn´t tell me anything at all...
 
I always enjoy their collections, and I think their quieter approach does a greater service to them than a louder/personality based one. I can see the references but here I don't mind it because they actually have such an honest understanding of their clientele.

Designers like Peter Do or Gabriela Hearst are trying to do a similar thing but there is such a level of coldness in their work that it is entirely devoid of true personality whereas this has warmth and an actual heartbeat. Wanky of me to say, but there is an earnestness here.

So yeah it is pretty derivative, but that has always been their thing because they make what they enjoy and have loved/do love/would love to wear. The Row has always had that essence of a fairly strong passion project and I really applaud Olsens for that. It seems to be getting increasingly rarer these days to find such a level of dedication to both the vision AND craft.
 
It’s very beautiful in a very Prada/Jil Sander/Romeo Gigli in the late 80’s early 90’s kind of way.
I think the presentation and the styling does a lot for this collection. Maybe my issue is that despite being perfect, it’s also quite anonymous in it perfection.

No distinctive cut, no « personal » touch in a way. From a pragmatic POV, it’s everything I like and also like to wear to a certain extend but I need to see a special shoulder of way of cutting a jacket, something…

It’s very « common » good taste. But I understand those who subscribes to the brand…
 
So beautiful and serene. The late-80s were a really nice time for women tailoring and I like how they interpret those boxy silhouettes.

After a very idiosyncratic resort show, it does feel a bit lacking somehow but it’s hard to dismiss such a solid presentation.
 
Some looks are too relaxed... Sometimes I hope they can offer more sheath dresses like Calvin Klein. Sloppy and minimalistic are never in the same page from my own fashion dictionary.
 
Some looks are too relaxed... Sometimes I hope they can offer more sheath dresses like Calvin Klein. Sloppy and minimalistic are never in the same page from my own fashion dictionary.
I agree, this would greatly benefit from a few negligee-style, slinky 90s Calvin Klein dresses. This needs lightness. Those bulky long dresses they seem to favour lately feel a bit pretentious coming from them (and too wannabe-90s Yohji).
 

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