Thom Browne F/W 2021.22 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[caioherrero]

Anyone buys this label?

 

[Phuel]

Lovely imagery. HIs most interesting offering in a very long long long time: That combination of tailored, Victorian Magritte surrealism with hi-tech fabrication is beautifully executed. Tailoring and construction seems a lost art these days in high fashion. Learn it kidz.

 

[WAVES]

I love it and I will say it again: I want him at Chanel!

 

[Lola701]

It’s well made and « spectacular », yet it’s boring...

I love it and I will say it again: I want him at Chanel!

It’s true that Karl was approached because his aesthetic was very far from Chanel but Thom Browne is very large stretch!

 

[Machinegumm]

One of the very few collections this season that I'll remember.

 

[YohjiAddict]

So disconcerting the way he played with masculine and femenine notions of eveningwear, it's not everyday that you see such a blurring of boundaries and I've got to recognize it takes talent to pull it off tastefully.

For me it got more and more disturbing as I went through it, the final look makes me think of an evil spirit that haunts a ski resort and wears her victims' clothes as trophies...

 

[apple]

I love it and I will say it again: I want him at Chanel!

that would be amazing!

 

[Phuel]

So disconcerting the way he played with masculine and femenine notions of eveningwear, it's not everyday that you see such a blurring of boundaries and I've got to recognize it takes talent to pull it off tastefully.

For me it got more and more disturbing as I went through it, the final look makes me think of an evil spirit that haunts a ski resort and wears her victims' clothes as trophies...

Absolutely! The visuals possess that sort of gothy surrealism that’s both creepy and charming: Films The Shining and Sleepy Hollow, even Mama… Brothers Grimm and Tim Burton fairy tale-esque and surrealist horror all fused with a high fashion sensibility. This is the first time in a very long long time that I wished Thom would have presented a live show.

(Frankly, this sort of complex, masterfully but whimsical patchwork fusion of old world craftsmanship and modern sportswear technology is way way way too sophisticated for Chanel’s aesthetic […sorry Lola but you know what I mean!]. This is in the realm of a Rei’s Comme when she was at her best and not trolling with the 5th-grade school pageant costume silliness like she is now.

Hope to see Thom explore and progress further with this sort of CdG-esque futuristic pagan pageantry in design.)

 

[WAVES]

It’s well made and « spectacular »

I can live with spectacular!

also, I’ve always seen a lot of Chanel in Thom Browne. that’s why for me it would make so much sense. and I’ll confess that his last collections we’re starting to be a little repetitive but then he give us this like @Phuel and @YohjiAddict so brilliantly described.

what I want him to do at Chanel is what I want any appointed designer to do at the helm of an already existing brand: to dive into the archives and inject his own creativity. and I do believe that he has it. but it’s just my wishful thinking, I’m well aware.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Would love to see his vision of Chanel as well. But even had this been late-90s/2000s when creativity was in demand, Thom’s creative vision would still be too severe for Chanel— and absolutely way way way too severe for the Chanel clientele.

 

[reese06]

I used to think he would be great at Chanel but I'm not sure he has the range, ease and humor needed for the house.

Sometimes the silhouettes, fabrications and textiles look forced and sometimes even tortured.

No doubt that he is talented but I don't think he is the right fit.