Thom Browne F/W 2022.23 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[SophiaVB]

It's getting a little tired...

 

[Norden]

The theatrics might be a little tiring. But I respect his craft and conviction.
I do find his thematic approach at times stifling, but when it works it really hits the right spot. The dachshund bag with the twin handle is so much fun and sweet. The section with the large dresses feels contrived and overworked, and hits the theme too much on the nose.

otherwise it’s fun, he commands respect with his endurance on the scene with difficult clothes like this. It’s a nice fantasy to sell his easier pieces, which I see worn all the time!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ This absolutely commands respect. HIs craft, imagination, and humour is simply irresistible!

It’s obvious hee adores Comme— but in a rare instance where the pupil exceeds exceeds the master, he simply succeeds in the absurdity, exuberance and joy of chaos— in remixing classic American preppie standards. He has replaced Rei as the ultimate mad hatter couturier: Mickey Mouse, bankers glen-plaid, prep school ties, Ivy League tennis pullovers et all preppie accoutrements are so brilliantly remixed to such maddening, and still disciplined anarchy. Some looks don't work-- and it does get repetitive. But the ones that do, succeed with such serendipity and Americana fervour.

 

[eugenius]

I enjoy the theatrics of his show(s), but this is definitely the least exciting one in recent years. The more retail-ready pieces are fine and typical Thom Browne fare, but these sartorial sculptures that him, Rick, and CDG do for the runway are obnoxious. And then you have the children's toy blocks as heels...ugh. Kill me.

And why is this Jordan Roth character all of a sudden the new It-Girl Queen on the fashion scene?

 

[susseinmcswanny]

All the tiktoktards and twitter/insta people are gagging over it. Probably bc it's something you can consume in 0.5 seconds for shock value and then immediately move on.

Sculpturally I like a couple things like look 27, but he's just so pretentious that I lose interest. I'm getting tired of using that word to describe things I need a broader vocabulary. I know it's supposed to be fun but none of it is challenging. He never has anything to say other than that he can create useless, gaudy for the sake of gaudiness, Rei Kawakubo esque art for people like Jordan Roth and Fredrik Robertsson who have no idea what's going on but want to have a "moment" wearing something ridiculous so people will take pictures of them wearing the name "Thom Browne", like he's some blue chip artist. I watched something about his process of creating and he just draws a bunch of shapes and sh*t for his team to ambiguously interpret


source: YouTube.com

Like why

 

[jeanclaude]

I am totally unable to differentiate one collection from another...everything is so similar!!

 

[WAVES]

I love it.
his craft, compared to most designers nowadays, is absolutely flawless.
it’s a little repetitive but it’s also his mark and the nod to Rei is done in a gorgeous way.

how I would LOVE to see him at the helm of Chanel. I have said this countless times, I know.

when I think that designers like Maria Grazia, Michele, Hearst, Jones and so many more are literally killing fashion, season after season with their lack of talent I look at Thom Browne’s collection and everything is so pristine that I can only feel content.

 

[THD96]

He thinks he can just easily rip off Rei's "lumps and bumps" collections and her whole business approach without no one noticing it. Please have some originality.

Wow, another parade of gray tailoring with stripes of colors, totally never seen that before. He may hide it behind all of these theatrical but he'll never have the taste or the audacity of Rei.

At least Rei has the last laugh, her clients are people that have a particular taste, rather than some IG/Til Tok "fashion" that screams "noticed me, I'm different than the other".

 

[tricotineacetat]

I find it rather surprising that Hedi Slimane gets all the criticism for 'always doing the same' when Thom Browne's wearable oeuvre is even more narrow and codified to the point that it has become a clichée of itself much like Karl Lagerfeld's look after he famously slimmed down to fit into Hedi's suits.

I don't bother to pay more attention to these 'runway only' looks because we all know they serve nothing but to create an image to sell rather conservative preppy staples.

 

[Lola701]

I feel like Thom Browne and the Thom Browne is slowly becoming a caricature much like Rick Owens nowadays.
Maybe my vision is much more based on their menswear and the wearers but I feel like Thom Browne, much like Rick Owens nowadays is one of those brands people wear to signal or scream that they know, love and wears HF. It’s not brands I associate with style anymore because except maybe for the Asians (who adopted TB early), people wears them in a very loud and kind of obnoxious way. It feels very fashion-victim and I feel like because the customers looks like caricatures, the runway in it attempt to surprise/shock/excite, is becoming a caricature.

Don’t get me wrong, this is technically impressive but it looks like a pile a stuff.

In a way I expected the Thom Browne look to become the new look of the establishment much like what Tom Ford has become. That allows to introduce new elements that feels fresh instead of this circus.

The irony is that the Thom Browne early days, much like the RO early 00´s or even the early days of TF own line will remain timeless and more subversive than this. Thom should try a new way to really surprise us. This ain’t it.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Thom really enjoys putting models in shoes they can barely walk in. I wonder if that is the result of being swayed by Bolton's constant push (and prosaic ramblings) of fashion is ART, or maybe he's somewhat of a shoe masochist a la Miuccia Prada circa Spring 2009.

He was kind of fun and different when he began, but it is now so predictable and twee. Great construction for sure, but we've seen it before, in more interesting fabrics from both himself and other designers. This does also act as an uncomfortable foreshadowing for what may occur in the future with Roseberry's Schiaparelli seeing as he has such a Thom Browne-esque way of approaching (ripping off) design.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I find it very boring, I much prefer Kawakubo’s offering. The fabrications feel truer to an avant-garde approach and it’s never just a “piling of stuff” which is exactly what this collection is giving me.