Thom Browne F/W 2023.24 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Bugsy]

Interesting but does it sale?

 

[penny609]

Perhaps my favorite collection so far. Nothing truly groundbreaking but I dreamt a tiny little bit looking at some of these outfits.

 

[LadyJunon]

Interesting but does it sale?

Apparently, they have pre-collections and the seasonless range (basically grey suits) to do that job.

 

[vetements]

Interesting but does it sale?

I have actually never seen any of these in their flagship stores around the world, but I know they sell a great deal of shirts, sweaters, suits, and even accessories and they do sell very well despite the patterns or designs doesn’t change very much from season to season. I buy TB from time to time and the good thing is something from ten years ago still doesn’t look dated. Only problem is they are priced very high and I wonder why sometimes…

 

[Marc10]

Interesting but does it sale?

I mean none of this stuff is actually ever produced. His is one of the brand with biggest discrepancies from what is shown on the runway to what is actually sold. If you go this his website right now, what is on sale are really good, well made and interesting tailoring, daywear, knits and sportswear. It's like Ralph Lauren for fashion-oriented people. And they all sell very well.

His shows are lovely to watch and I appreciate the creativity, but I keep wishing that he would scale down and actually show clothes. What the people are wearing in the front row are usually more interesting than what's on the catwalk.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The same kind of museum display driven collection from him.

Applaud the technical marvel these pieces have, but this many variants of such similar looks makes me think it is all just a waste of fabric. Like what's the point? He isn't new to the game, so isn't building an aura whilst developing pieces to sell. It just has little purpose in the grand scheme of things when there's little to no showing of what they actually sell in the collection.

 

[THD96]

"Le petit prince" is something so poetic, so dreamy, and innocent. And he butchered it into something so garish and forced.

I can't with that first look.
All those final looks like a poor man version of CDG.
The oversized shoulders are so overdone, and they look stiff in motion.
The parade of tweeds looks like he is auditioning for Virginie's position.

He is following Rei in terms of business operations. Put all these stunt shows so he can sell shorts, striped suits, and sneakers to the Hypebeast. Get that coins I guess.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I'll never understand

 

[tourbillions]

love it when he taps his inner mcqueen. reminds me of horn of plenty without totally copying it.

 

[Phuel]

Thom Browne is one of the few brands where the merch in the store is far superior to the showpieces, as far as I’m concerned. That annoying 4-stripe signature aside, there are far more intricately, masterfully tailored suitings, coats and sportswear that are the epitome of modern sartorial, gentlemanly bespoke with a genuine freshness and modest sexiness to the male body: Not a whiff of silly proportions, balloon-shoulders and clownwear. I could be perfectly content to only wear Them Brown until the end of the world.

The front row guys are absolutely my kind of sexiness. But it’s hugely hilarious how these grown men are the equivalent of 15yo cheerleaders at their high school pep rally LOL What possesses seemingly, supposedly sophisticated men and women to be decked all out in signature head-to-toe of the designer whose show they’re attending???? And that goes for the stanning of any other designer. It’s so juvenile.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

He always sticks to his aesthetic yet it never feels stale or camp. I like the approach of not selling what you showcase, runway to wardrobe limits designers not to take risks.

 

[jeanclaude]

When avant-garde becomes generic.

 

[eugenius]

What possesses seemingly, supposedly sophisticated men and women to be decked all out in signature head-to-toe of the designer whose show they’re attending???? And that goes for the stanning of any other designer. It’s so juvenile.

Don't the designers GIVE them the clothes to wear to the shows? I don't know about you, but if he said to me "Here's a ticket to my show, some clothes, and some accessories, and some shoes," I wouldn't say "No thanks. That's so juvenile."

The clothes (or costumes) notwithstanding, the show made for good eye-candy. It wasn't as visually captivating as, say, that show featuring a funeral procession or the show inspired by Japan from years back, but it still made for good viewing on my laptop, and that's good enough for me nowadays. I'll take his brand of showmanship any day. The only negative I have is the aural assault of Josh Groban's "You'll Never Walk Alone" at the end..

 

[LadyJunon]

Don't the designers GIVE them the clothes to wear to the shows? I don't know about you, but if he said to me "Here's a ticket to my show, some clothes, and some accessories, and some shoes," I wouldn't say "No thanks. That's so juvenile."

The clothes (or costumes) notwithstanding, the show made for good eye-candy. It wasn't as visually captivating as, say, that show featuring a funeral procession or the show inspired by Japan from years back, but it still made for good viewing on my laptop, and that's good enough for me nowadays. I'll take his brand of showmanship any day. The only negative I have is the aural assault of Josh Groban's "You'll Never Walk Alone" at the end..

In all honesty, It's all just blatant showmanship, but it's showmanship done well.

 

[gallianostan]

unbearable.

there's only so much pee wee herman, pseudo-avant-garde, gallianocore bullsh*t one can take.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ It’s so strange how despite all the seemingly high-production value, the glossy, manufactured whimsy, eccentricity and surrealism of the presentation/branding, and of course the top theatrics of the costumes— Thom’s shows are such a bore. If he had incorporated his more commercial sensibility to the mix, it would actually liven up this pageant. Or just showcase these costumes on wooden armatures/hangers, there would still be more charm and personality than these overblown runway shows. He’s very much like Sarah Burton in that aspect: The more simple, the more intimate, the better their creative vision comes across.

@eugenius: Don’t know who they are (although the one with the beard looks like someone I went out with a few years ago...), so can’t confirm either they were gifted the clothes or not… But unless they’re celebs/Hollywood-approved attractions to the show, even the ones on the higher foodchain of the industry aren’t getting free threads just to wear to the show. If I were blessed with interviewing and producing a feature piece on Helmut Lang, I may wear a handcuff bracelet, but I couldn’t imagine wearing any of his designs-- and not head-to-toe for the meeting. It’s all so embarrassing stanning that I would feel even he’d be turned off by, and not take me seriously.

 

[Machinegumm]

It's whimsy, but it's the same whimsy almost every single collection. But that's the challenge; having a distinctive style and managing to produce something fresh that is still in line with your previous work.
That said, this is just ok to me. TB on autopilot.