Thom Browne F/W 2025.26 New York

[Armani]

vogue

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

For someone who creates beautiful products for stores, these clown clothes are as ugly as his usual offerings. He is no Rei and will never be Rei; funny how he copied CDG's business model.

 

[JohannesL]

I don't mind designers being consistent with their aesthetics no matter how dated/vulgar/trashy they are, but his offerings always verge on the costume territory despite being an RTW show. The pleated looks are good and some good tailoring sans oversized ones as usual.

 

[WAVES]

what a coats overload and I’m here for it. they’re magnificent!

I did not like the patchwork dresses and though he could’ve developed more around the silk pieces shown on looks 40 & 41.

the last gown on Alek was so opulent! loved it!

 

[Kanzai]

Thom Browne is not even up there with Junya Watanabe in terms of radical propositions let alone being the next Rei, his approaching in this avant garde/contemporary art world is similar with Viktor&Rolf imo, the only difference is Thom has talent in menswear. He has skill, he's a good tailor but the whole sportwears but make them eccentric aesthetic has become so cringe and forced. It's okay if Thom Browne want his brand to be considered luxury uniform house for rebellious souls but I just don't find it interesting or desirable at all. It's Armani, which is avant-garde in a subtle way, even more so than any of this.

 

[thiago:)]

You can see there’s commitment and quality, but at the end of the day it just feels flat. Never got the appeal of his brand and all I see is overthinking and overdesign…

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Different season, same collection. It just never makes sense to me to see collections like this when the shop floor offers something completely different.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

This might be my favorite collection from NY.

It looks like same-old-same-old but at the same time I cannot help but zooming into each picture and admiring how well everything is done: from the different textures merging into each other in the coats, to the bias-stripes dresses (crazy patterns), to the collars from the shirts, to the embroideries and appliqués.

To me it doesn't feel wannabe-CdG (opposite to Marc), it feels undoubtedly Thom Browne.

Excellent.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Fair enough. And not the slightest stumble with his artisans craftsmanship, disciplined bespoke, and unwavering dedication, commitment to tradition and premium material in the production of his wears. But OMFG— these endless shows, season after season with their Marge-Simpson-resews-a-Chanel-suit-101-different-ways is so tedious, it actually tarnishes his brand more than it elevates it.

Then when I’m looking for that exquisite bird’s-eye or seersucker suit, and his is the only worthy offering with something beyond what the classic bespoke tailor can offer, and all is forgiven.

 

[tourbillions]

the balloon looks were not needed, they kind of ruined how well constructed everything else. That said nothing is cdg about it, just thom browne through and through. love the pleated looks, wanna see where he can take that.

i somehow expected he will be showing at paris

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

i somehow expected he will be showing at paris

Absolutely. THE show in NY that could fit in Paris.
(With all respect to everybody showing in NY)

 

[Avonlea]

It just feels so insincere. I always get the impression that he keeps doing these strange volumes and proportions to convince everyone how avant-garde he is, but it's always glaringly obvious that he has a very commercial sensibility. Maybe this way he can think of himself more as an artist rather than just a fashion designer.

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

Absolutely. THE show in NY that could fit in Paris.
(With all respect to everybody showing in NY)

He shows in New York in February and Paris for couture the summer.

 

[NYLA22]

Marge-Simpson-resews-a-Chanel-suit-101-different-ways

Brilliant reference (that was such a genius Simpsons episode).

 

[Darko]

Never liked his creations
Clothes always looks waaay too tight and uncomfortable and that grey signature is sooo WW2

 

[proseccotabis]

This is why I love TFS- In one thread about a collection you can find so many radically different, polarizing opinions!
Weirdly enough I don’t associate Thom Browne with style, fashion or craft. I find his clothes very difficult to wear and to coordinate, they’re absolutely chaotic, random and nonsensical and not in a kooky or charismatic sort of way. TB is a less stuck up brother of Zegna. I’ve yet to meet a person who is into unconventional rtw and would willingly buy Thom Browne. Every season is the same, over and over again.
I have to give it to them though - the fabrics are fantastic. But you’d expect this with such insane prices right