Thom Browne Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Is the last model Charles de Vilmorin?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This gives me second hand embarrassment. It could have been done well, but it just feels really desperate at this point.

And I get the red, white and blue as a trim is kind of his thing now, but I can't dissociate it with Chalayan's Airmail pieces and the jacket worn by Björk.

 

[THD96]

I must say I enjoy the show, it's entertaining. It was great to see Sasha, Farida, and Anh Duong at the beginning of the show. The show has the same energy as JPG menswear in the 90s.

As for the collection, it's not as strong or daring as he thought it would be. It's less costume than his usual offering. The jockstrap is going to be a bestseller next season. Same with the men's version of the Miu Miu skirt. Get ready for them to be everywhere on IG next season.

But I like the tweeds jackets. They are the strongest pieces in this collection. They are the same tweeds maker of "you-know-who's". It's suddenly better and fresher than the current "you-know-who's" tho.

 

[Lola701]

I love Farida Khelfa! She was the best thing in this show!

 

[WAVES]

‘repetition kills you’?…

it gives the idea that it’s playful but it’s a bit of a miss. and I usually love his collections.
also, all the tweed… also, the styling is too heavy while trying to be sexy.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I actually liked this.

My only complaint is that his shows are always so theoretical. The fabrics might go into production and be used for more straightforward pieces, but the rest is just fodder for celebrity red carpet and editorial. It's not so real.

The spectacle keeps Thom Browne in the cultural conversation, which helps the sales. However, in the end, this is just a glorified presentation to launch a new line of jockstraps. That's not a point of criticism, just my own disappointment.

I did love the strap-on-wearing, bare-bottomed cowboy at the end. It's almost as if Thom needed to reaffirm his homosexual street cred after blowing up in the hetero mainstream.

It is fun to see Thom be so explicitly sexual, probably because I always thought he was sexy. Though, I shudder to picture Andrew Bolton in one of those jockstraps.

 

[LadyJunon]

Daniel Roseberry was the glue for the runway collections of this brand. It's gotten so wayward since he left for Schiaparelli...

 

[YohjiAddict]

I did like the collection, if only because his choice of fabrics was on point and the tweed pieces are very nice. It’s kind of weird to have a Thom Browne show built around such a sexual gesture, since for me this brand had always been synonymous with the cerebral and quirky side of fashion…at least he got out of his comfort zone!

 

[cantdesign]

i liked the collection although not his strongest by any means. texturally beautiful. but it really was so repetitive that it’s hard to think all but a few pieces were special.

watching the show. the pace with which the models moved was truly criminal.

 

[Olaffo]

Is the last model Charles de Vilmorin?

That would be first time he is useful.


Un(fortunately) the model is Florian DesBiendras.

I have started saving for these jockstraps...

 

[Nomar]

Would have been much better without the weird hairstyles and face pieces. It's all too distracting.

 

[Toni Ahlgren]

So one gets to have Marisa Berenson, Farida Khelfa and Sasha Pivovarova and then covers their faces with those ridiculous anchors. I still haven't spotted them.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

So one gets to have Marisa Berenson, Farida Khelfa and Sasha Pivovarova and then covers their faces with those ridiculous anchors. I still haven't spotted them.

That's because they attended the show as guests and were sitting front row.

Marisa made a very late entrance and was decked head-to-toe in Thom Browne and looked AMAAAAAYZING.

 

[Toni Ahlgren]

That's because they attended the show as guests and were sitting front row.

Marisa made a very late entrance and was decked head-to-toe in Thom Browne and looked AMAAAAAYZING.

Oh, I just got confused as MDC listed them as models

 

[dfl-001]

It all looks like 'Chanel's' rebellious younger brother.
Some of those jackets are really good; 15, 39, 40.