Thom Browne S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Salvatore]

I really like Thom Browne and his fantasy/whimsical world. It was a little repetitive in a way, but that was not the point here. I saw so many things I loved, both “wearable” and “non-wearable” in an everyday sense. First off, that first blue coat with the gold embroidery … TO DIE FOR. I want it so bad and I am a man ! I want a version of it for me. Then you have the scarves, socks, underwear and more with the signature tri-colour ribbons, love those ! The look on Debra Shaw with the pleated poodle skirt and sweater, the way it moved was beautiful and hope somebody wears it. The polkadot pieces are not my favourite, but the rest was great !

 

[gallianostan]

yeah i hate it

i think he tries wayyy too hard and it all just ends up being so ugly

 

[THD96]

This show is just messy.

It's a no for me. I find the Galliano's Dior mix CDG inspiration quite ridiculous considering most of the stuff he sells is striped suits and that dog bags.

Those big tents capes and caftans galore look like he just raid onto the ALT closet. And why do they have numbers in the back?
I find some of the looks have been executed badly, the fabrics he chose just don't look expensive.
The color combinations just don't work the way he wanted them to work.
The styling is overkill. Too many layers, too many fabrics, and too many unnecessary details. The whole collection feels suffocated.
Those hair and makeup are distracting, something should just have left in the 2000s.

Overall a heavy and unnecessary collection. It's time for him to strip back all tricks and gimmicks and present something straightforward.

 

[gallianostan]

just watched the video and wow, it's even worse than i thought. that was dreadful.

you'll never be john, honey!

 

[Machinegumm]

Man, I got so exited after seeing the first look and then it just... never arrived. I've never felt c*ck-blocked by a collection before.

 

[Avonlea]

Anna Piaggi would love it. Whole collection reminds me of her

 

[jeanclaude]

Boring. Shocking factor at -9999 level.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Overwhelming show but just as empty as Balmain’s last extravaganza. It would definitely be wise to let go of the clown couture gimmickry and build a more serene collection for next season. The preppy look will always be a stable but this, on the other hand, is quite passé.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This season has been really, really bad for repetition. Seriously, 15+ variations of the same thing Thom? It's both gimmicky as hell and obsolete because the collection quickly becomes an over-saturated mess. The only decent looks are the first two.

Interesting pieces are here and there, but I want to see them paired with something less dense. I can imagine those poodle skirts looking rather chic with a simple tank top or even a light cashmere sweater/cardigan with the typical Thom Browne stripes on them. Or one of those jackets with a sleek pair of pants. When there's this many layers of everything it's just stuff. Stuff made with some really odd fabric choices...

But this will always be viewed in relation to the MET, both on and off the carpet. He designs for showcasing in a museum now probably because he knows he is an easy shoe-in for the most part.

Odd note, but this also feels very "American". Can't explain it (and not in a classic way either) but I have a similar sentiment to Daniel Roseberry, M. Williams, and at the time, Virgil. They're just so... American with their approaches. Demna is erring into this territory too.

 

[gallianostan]

Odd note, but this also feels very "American". Can't explain it (and not in a classic way either) but I have a similar sentiment to Daniel Roseberry, M. Williams, and at the time, Virgil. They're just so... American with their approaches. Demna is erring into this territory too.

this. they have no concept of actual fashion, only 'faSHUN'. it's no wonder why european (particularly belgian and french) designers are generally far more successful in creating memorable and acclaimed work; many of them have a sophisticated approach to designing clothes that goes beyond creating MOMENTS like this show (which are cringe as f*ck) or catering to people's narrow, and often gallicised, notions of what 'fashun' is. there's a wit, intelligence and restraint, even with more theatrical designers like john (whose work this collection almost seems to make a garish caricature out of). that approach is completely lost on this new generation of designers. all they know is add a big hat, cringe poses, and virtue signal. roseberry does it, browne does it and scores more do it too. it's affected, superficial and vacuous, which makes it even more contemptible.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

this. they have no concept of actual fashion, only 'faSHUN'. it's no wonder why european (particularly belgian and french) designers are generally far more successful in creating memorable and acclaimed work; many of them have a sophisticated approach to designing clothes that goes beyond creating MOMENTS like this show (which are cringe as f*ck) or catering to people's narrow, and often gallicised, notions of what 'fashun' is. there's a wit, intelligence and restraint, even with more theatrical designers like john (whose work this collection almost seems to make a garish caricature out of). that approach is completely lost on this new generation of designers. all they know is add a big hat, cringe poses, and virtue signal. roseberry does it, browne does it and scores more do it too. it's affected, superficial and vacuous, which makes it even more contemptible.

There is a lack of nuance and true personality to a lot of fashion now, and it is strongly related to this need to be a moment, exceed social media expectations and to be as digestible yet esoteric at the same time. It is a very modern-day/contemporary American thing to force something to be something rather than just letting it happen. It makes the work end up looking overwrought, soulless and/or out of touch. America has become quiet the strange pop-culture phenomenon and bit of a joke in of itself, and that energy has seeped out far and wide.

I think it also comes from an obsession of viewing fashion as/being/is ART, which is very evident in this collection. Could go on a large rant about this, but honestly sometimes it's just nice to see well made, highly crafted/considered clothes with a twist. Not a psychoanalytical exposé.

Not all are like this, and it is a bit strong to be using it as such a matter-of-fact blanket term but it is definitely a mind set I see very strongly from that side of the pond. An abrasive superficiality that reeks of an overtly saccharine cough medicine.

 

[BitterFashionQueen90]

I cringed so hard watching this mess. Gwendoline opening in those mules had the grace of a dump truck reversing backwards with no tyres. Don’t even get me started on the Shein Galliano for Dior inspired opera coat… shame Browne has poor Andrew Bolton by the balls. I hope he’ll stop sharing his vast fashion history knowledge with this pseudo designer.

 

[RaisinBoy]

speechless how annoying this is

 

[depordetioz]

Just had the chance to check it out and look 4-20 are literally the same thing over and over again?