Tolu Coker F/W 2024.25 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Phuel]

Fantastically brimming with potential.

Small but steady offering that seamlessly sways from easygoing layered separated to dramatic silhouettes with a cool, breezy islander eclecticism and charm that's strongly based on hard-earned dressmaking. Their laid-back clash of textures, materials and colours is really good. It's what Grace Wales Bonner needs to transcend beyond her same old same old Crooklyn monotony. This duo needs to work on constructing a more modern cut with the suiting jackets that come off way too matronly— like what their mothers/grandmothers would wear to church. And the footwear drags the looks down, especially the Ms Santa Claus boots LMFAO

(Are they gay? A sense of pragmatism is always good in these days overrun with clownwear/infantwear/dragwear, but lesbian designers tend to be too pragmatic, even homely, and that’s the weakness here.) These looks are really good:

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[Not Plain Jane]

^ hard agree on the footwear

 

[Machinegumm]

I'm sorry, but I keep focusing on that rogue sweet potato(?).

 

[LadyJunon]

Fantastically brimming with potential.

Small but steady offering that seamlessly sways from easygoing layered separated to dramatic silhouettes with a cool, breezy islander eclecticism and charm that's strongly based on hard-earned dressmaking. Their laid-back clash of textures, materials and colours is really good. It's what Grace Wales Bonner needs to transcend beyond her same old same old Crooklyn monotony. This duo needs to work on constructing a more modern cut with the suiting jackets that come off way too matronly— like what their mothers/grandmothers would wear to church. And the footwear drags the looks down, especially the Ms Santa Claus boots LMFAO

(Are they gay? A sense of pragmatism is always good in these days overrun with clownwear/infantwear/dragwear, but lesbian designers tend to be too pragmatic, even homely, and that’s the weakness here.) These looks are really good:

I don't mind the heavy pragmatism here. It balances off the more eccentric elements of the collection. But yes, the shoe situation here is tragic.

 

[jeanclaude]

It gives me "Calamity Jane" McQueen for Givenchy collection vibes (but gone wrong )

 

[LadyJunon]

It gives me "Calamity Jane" McQueen for Givenchy collection vibes (but gone wrong )

Without the context of Givenchy, McQueen's Givenchy was kinda fire. I dream of the day when I'll be able to cut suits like that.

 

[Nimsay]

Those bustier inset dresses are wonderful. The striped one is looking like a must have for magazines.

 

[jeanclaude]

Without the context of Givenchy, McQueen's Givenchy was kinda fire. I dream of the day when I'll be able to cut suits like that.

Yes, he had interesting and powerful collections during his tenure (not all of them though). And even if he hated being at Givenchy, he designed with more passion there than nowadays designers.

 

[gallianostan]

Without the context of Givenchy, McQueen's Givenchy was kinda fire. I dream of the day when I'll be able to cut suits like that.

mcqueen at givenchy was absolutely fire. his first collection was a car crash but most of what came after was mesmerising (sans the horrible fall 2000 couture, which was a dreadful circus).

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The core of this is heavily pragmatic, but that’s what I love about this. Sure there’s things that need a bit more work to make it look a little more modern but this is a fantastic showcase in my opinion. Great execution with the fabrics, silhouettes that have heaps of potential and a perspective that is interesting and stands out from the rest of LFW.

Not too sure about the footwear and some of the styling tricks. And perhaps some of the pieces are a tad derivative but they’re definitely figuring things out which you can see.

I looked up some of their previous collections and the runway presentation has really worked in their favour. Often times the look book set up can almost be too dense when taking a more editorial/creative approach and makes things look a little too static. Here there’s movement. Things are in flux so there’s more life to it which is needed with some of these fabrics and shapes too.

Something exciting here, and hopefully they take the time to really further themselves. Some more pared back looks with more innovative cuts will really help benefit them, but you can see they’re slowly getting there. Kudos!!!

 

[tourbillions]

their color choices and fabric choices are just not giving the designs any justice. plus that messy set. although i can see the potential just need to improve on construction.