Tom Ford F/W 2019.20 New York

[TheoG]

vogue.com

 

[TheoG]

vogue.com

 

[TheoG]

vogue.com

 

[jeanclaude]

This is a total disaster...this should feel like "Tom Ford, the luxury sophisticated brand"...but it feels like "TF by Tom Ford, the diffusion line for department stores worldwide (free tote bag with every purchase)".

It´s sooo basic, you can tell he doesn´t care about fashion anymore. It´s like his auto-pilot mode is also in auto-pilot mode!

The first 3 looks with the hats and the stylism totally screams "MARC JACOBS". Why??? They should scream "TOM FORD"...for god´s sake!!

Then those satin pants...unflattering, badly cutted; and with all the puckering of the world condensed in each of their side seams. I like seam puckering, it can look great when done in purpose...but this feels like someone in the factory didn´t care to adjust the thread tension properly, just for pure lazyness.
The side pockets make models hips look huge...just imagine how they are gonna make look a normal customer´s hips.

The evening wear is just pure filler. Toss some basic minimal dresses with some decorative chains here and there; and let´s call it a day!

Where is Tom? What have they done to him?? And why a bunch of lazy interns are in charge of designing his collection??

 

[zacatecas570]

I felt like watching a Gucci by Tom Ford show.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I mean...it’s not horrible. But he, like many others, should skip shows altogether at this point.

There is no magic in fashion shows anymore. It’s too much of an event, too many people involved, too much marketing and social media focus, too big of a production, not enough spontaneity, not intimate enough, audience is not engaged enough, models aren’t spectacular anymore...I could go on and on.

Stick to a lookbook, or better yet....just let these clothes show up in stores. Tom offers well made, glam and beautifully tailored clothes and they usually look good on the rack. Skip all this other nonsense. For his sake and ours.

 

[Lola701]

This is a "good" or at least decent collection...For a pre-season.

There's this thing about Tom Ford. It's a big brand but it's independent. While i totally understand that Tom designs for his clientele (because i buy his stuff), this looks like a collection ready to be sold that needed a "runway" stamp for people to buy.

The styling is both ingenious and disastrous because it add drama and a real swagger but it doesn't really serves the collection. I hate to blame Carine again but it's lazy and it looks lazier because it shows that she doesn't push Tom. She wears a lot of hoodies lately so, suddenly, we have hoodies on the show. I don't care if it's in cashmere...It's not enough.

And i think the flaws of her styling and Tom's proposition for womenswear are more visible because THE MENSWEAR IS SO GREAT.

At first, the collection was really interesting because it's a fresh perspective of what the Tom Ford woman could be but when we look deeper, it's kinda disappointing. The attitude and spirit are great but the clothes could have been greater and the styling, better. Even the shoes are bad.
I might be interested in some blouses, maybe a pant (a version in cotton) and the tuxedo jacket on Joan but that's all.

I think Tom should work with someone younger or with a fresh perspective. He has a wide audience and clientele and sometimes when looking at his collections, people can sometimes believe that it's only for grown up or mature people.

You can be sexy, young and fun in Tom Ford in 2019...

 

[elle_gb]

I like it love the rolled up trousers trick and the evening section is truly Tom circa Gucci.

 

[Scouting Snapper]

Look i was backstage i seen the Menswear up close & personal...There is some amazing amazing clothing & accessories that i have already put a order in for ok...I always buy Tom Ford that will never change ...It helps getting a discount ...but i digress ...I enjoyed the show ...Some of the shoes on the Girls looked extremely uncomfortable so the runway walks where mediocre for the most part ..i thought the Womenswear was ok nothing spectacular ...this stuff will sell ...it always does ...The glory days are gone ..I accept & adjust accordingly with no negativity ...I understand the business...It's 2019 people this is where Fashion is at ...

 

[Benn98]

Snoozefest, sorry! I never look to Tom Ford for menswear, but this season especially it's such a non-event. And then there's the women's line. The first three looks made me sit up because the proportions and styling is something new for him. But everything else is lazy!

 

[Lola701]

Look i was backstage i seen the Menswear up close & personal...There is some amazing amazing clothing & accessories that i have already put a order in for ok...I always buy Tom Ford that will never change ...It helps getting a discount ...but i digress ...I enjoyed the show ...Some of the shoes on the Girls looked extremely uncomfortable so the runway walks where mediocre for the most part ..i thought the Womenswear was ok nothing spectacular ...this stuff will sell ...it always does ...The glory days are gone ..I accept & adjust accordingly with no negativity ...I understand the business...It's 2019 people this is where Fashion is at ...

There’s something confident about his menswear. It just works.
He knows who he is doing clothes for, he wears the clothes, the clothes fit a lifestyle and there’s a real down to earth approach with his menswear.

His womenswear is always hits & misses. Great tailoring, great quality but it lacks that down to earth thing. There are good pieces (always and it’s either tailoring or outerwear) but it’s confused.

The magic of his Gucci & YSL days was that it was instantly believable for the street or very aspirational.

The evolution of his menswear is really interesting: from very fancy, flamboyant and sophisticated to something more urban, sleek, contemporary.
His womenswear on the other hand seems to struggle between Redcarpet, party girl or real life.

His best collections to this date were SS15 and FW12. No compromises, he went for it. SS19 was good...full on glamour.

 

[Marc10]

Yikes this is terrible, especially disappointing giving last season's delicious lux triumph. It doesn't even look very TF, those faux fur hats are very cheap looking, like almost all the fabrics used.

 

[kasper!]

The first few women's looks are a big miss...Get rid of those furry hats. Too Marc Jacobs!

I watched the live show earlier and the eveningwear looks are all good. So glowing esp the closing look! However the chain element is from last year I think...nothing fresh really lol

my photo

 

[dior_couture1245]

There’s something confident about his menswear. It just works.
He knows who he is doing clothes for, he wears the clothes, the clothes fit a lifestyle and there’s a real down to earth approach with his menswear.

His womenswear is always hits & misses. Great tailoring, great quality but it lacks that down to earth thing. There are good pieces (always and it’s either tailoring or outerwear) but it’s confused.

The magic of his Gucci & YSL days was that it was instantly believable for the street or very aspirational.

The evolution of his menswear is really interesting: from very fancy, flamboyant and sophisticated to something more urban, sleek, contemporary.
His womenswear on the other hand seems to struggle between Redcarpet, party girl or real life.

His best collections to this date were SS15 and FW12. No compromises, he went for it. SS19 was good...full on glamour.

I actually think his kind of wacky Fall 2014 was one of his better womenswear collections. It was the right balance of believability and street factor, just enough fashion oddity, and the luxury quotionent was high with the materials and tailoring on full display. You could almost picture the collection walking down the Gucci catwalk circa 1999...small raised platform runway, spotlighting and Carmen Kass and the crew giving you everything...it really fit in with that old school energy.

I find when he goes too red carpet...it falls flat and looks dated.

So much of his most iconic Gucci era work wasn’t actually so red carpet, really - despite the nostalgic veneer of all the glamour and sex and drama...really most of the clothes were so realistic and even the eveningwear was mostly unexpected and casual (it wasn’t until the last 2-3 years of the Gucci years when Alessandra Facchinetti was on his team that Tom adopted that very structured and very worked on and very “evening” silhouette).

I liked that about his Fall 2014 show...a bit more casual attitude without ever losing the fashion factor. Tom’s sweet spot.

His recent work (on the catwalk at least) is just much too worked. And the women’s looks could really use some relaxation. But maybe that’s Carine’s hand...and as you’ve pointed out, it probably would be beneficial for Tom to work with a new stylist.

 

[dodencebt]

I usually defend his work - probably because of the great memories attached - but this is duty free clothing and nothing more. It makes me sad.

 

[Lola701]

I actually think his kind of wacky Fall 2014 was one of his better womenswear collections. It was the right balance of believability and street factor, just enough fashion oddity, and the luxury quotionent was high with the materials and tailoring on full display. You could almost picture the collection walking down the Gucci catwalk circa 1999...small raised platform runway, spotlighting and Carmen Kass and the crew giving you everything...it really fit in with that old school energy.

I find when he goes too red carpet...it falls flat and looks dated.

So much of his most iconic Gucci era work wasn’t actually so red carpet, really - despite the nostalgic veneer of all the glamour and sex and drama...really most of the clothes were so realistic and even the eveningwear was mostly unexpected and casual (it wasn’t until the last 2-3 years of the Gucci years when Alessandra Facchinetti was on his team that Tom adopted that very structured and very worked on and very “evening” silhouette).

I liked that about his Fall 2014 show...a bit more casual attitude without ever losing the fashion factor. Tom’s sweet spot.

His recent work (on the catwalk at least) is just much too worked. And the women’s looks could really use some relaxation. But maybe that’s Carine’s hand...and as you’ve pointed out, it probably would be beneficial for Tom to work with a new stylist.

FW14 was dynamic in terms of presentation but the clothes weren’t the best IMO compared to his previous efforts.

You’ve said it perfectly, what made his success wasn’t the eveningwear. His fashion was glamorous but the attitude was more T-Shirt and jeans than skin tight corseted pieces.
In fact, he always had a sheer T-shirt or a plain tank top in his collections.

Even with YSL, he added American casualness to YSL couture heritage so it worked.

When he did eveningwear there was a dynamism to it. The girls were walking fast most of the time, the cut were simple and sensual.

I think he should be more honest and do like Alaia or Prada and create collections around a look from his past and do it in the most literal way possible.

I’m just tired of seeing column jersey dresses.
He must think more FW 2001 than FW 2004. If Donatella can move on, he sure can!

 

[MetroMelannie]

The collection is not exceptionally inspiring but it is exceptionally commercial and it will sell for sure.

I am not a fan of the colour palette and the first looks fell flat at least, weird at worse to me. Those are just showcase looks - with necessary accessories - for media headlines and social media, just like the presence of some models.

Otherwise I cannot complain about the designs of the collection but will add that the menswear outshines the womenswear. it is so neatly cut and fitted yet simple that can only you recognise Tom Ford's exceptional talent when it comes to mens.

Note : slim satin pants have never been flattering on anyone not in 1999 nor in 2019.

 

[MetroMelannie]

I think Tom should work with someone younger or with a fresh perspective. He has a wide audience and clientele and sometimes when looking at his collections, people can sometimes believe that it's only for grown up or mature people.

You can be sexy, young and fun in Tom Ford in 2019...

Sure it looks like for mature women however I don't think it an issue. Actually all the brands are moving towards Millennials/Gen Z and going crazy about streetwear and/or young sexy (Saint Laurent, Ce-line, ...) and are saturating the market. Yet some women still dress sophisticated, classic and own a steady share of the market and I think Tom Ford along others holds on it.

 

[jeanclaude]

Note : slim satin pants have never been flattering on anyone not in 1999 nor in 2019.

The sad things is that, back to his heydays at Gucci and YSL, Tom was able to make satin work in a casual, relaxed, sexy; and flattering way.

And everyone knows satin is not an easy fabric to work with, both in technical and stylistical terms, but he totally dominated it back in those days. So seeing the pants from this collection is a total failure.

 

[Ruito]

ok, the first looks were elegant, the colors were nice and so was the styling, then it got boring with sportswear-inspired black looks, then it got great again with the finale dresses. Please some celebrity wear that final dress to the Oscars!