Tom Ford F/W 2024.25 Milan

^^^ Very cringe indeed LOL

It’s predictably Tom Ford signatures— again, and again… and agin. Eh.

When he attempts to introduce a part of himself, the glittery, shiny, sparkly parts, it’s all very Housewives-cheap, as his branding is. But it matters not, because in-store, the reliable Tom Ford staples of coats/jackets/suitings/crocs-galore will keep the customers coming in.
 
I love this, all that this beautiful brand needed was a bit of streamlining to take it‘s rightful place as the most aspiring mainstream luxury brand and that‘s what Peter Hawking‘s done here. His sensibility is less like Tom himself and probably closer to Christopher Bailey and I don‘t mind this at all since that sensibility went sorely missing after he left the fashion scene.

I was never a fan of the bad taste touches in Tom Ford the brand and for me the work that will stand the test of time are all the beautiful Gucci shows that were undoubtedly always as tasteful as they were risqué - I‘m glad that is the direction the Tom Ford brand is going now, at last.

This feels by far more modern than Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Gucci or Versace - All of which are competitors to Tom Ford.
 
Maybe Alexandre Vauthier can do some consulting on the side for the brand…

No, I’m going to give Peter Hawkings some times.
The collection was very Hits/Misses, quite predictable but also very products oriented!

There was a massive push for the bags! I think all the looks had accessories…And while some of it were beautiful, it diluted the message.

As for the clothes…
That shade of gold in the buttons was rather agressive and cheapened the daywear part. He is good in tailoring so the pantsuits were very chic, particularly the brown ones.

I see all the references but I’m not sure they are well executed or at least, executed with as much confidence as when Tom did it.

I think that the menswear is blending here. It doesn’t add anything to the whole thing…

I hate the cast!

It’s only his second collection and it will take a bit of time before he finds the right balance.

It’s a decent offering even if I think it lacks something. Maybe it needed more editing.
 
^^^ OMG… Let’s dream for a moment how glorious Alexandre would be for Tom Ford…

But Peter isn’t going anywhere. He is very much the taste and mood of the current fashion era— one that has the Kardashians/Hadids/Jenners and Housewives as fashion icons. This branding is very much in their direction. The casting is typically children playing dressup in their way cooler parents’ closets— like what Lila is to Kate.

(...And even as critical as we may be-- yourself and your husband and myself will be picking up a coat/jacket/suit for the next winter, regardless LOL)
 
It's VERY 2006. Which makes it a 10/10 by default lol.

It's got that disco gloss to it without venturing into Eurotrash territory. It's really done in a tasteful way and whether people want to accept it or not, this has become a classic silhouette that Tom Ford himself popularized. This is exactly the type of look his brand should be refining.

The flashy pantsuits, the sleek furs, the blingy jewelry, the unforgiving thigh slits/necklines, the thick-rimmed tinted sunglasses. It's very easy to snicker at it for being ostentatious but that's precisely this brand's signature and it's still absolutely sought after by the public AND emulated by other designers.
 
one that has the Kardashians/Hadids/Jenners and Housewives as fashion icons.
I don't see them here!.. unless we're talking Bella! 🌚

I love it for pretty much the same reason as tricot, it was Tom Ford's work for me what always struck me as Housewives, a very loud, crass, tasteless brand of sexiness, Texas oil tycoon's housewife type of thing.. this feels a bit more distilled while still keeping the essence and referencing what ultimately built his name, Gucci. I'm kind of hoping this isn't just nostalgia and wanting to rehash 2006, but a nice return to (can't believe I'm saying it because I was never a fan lol) what Milan Fashion Week used to be known for.. unapologetic opulence and sensuality and models that look the part. They could improve the female casting (that one in the silver dress omg- LIFT.IT.HIGH.ER! that's why you're struggling, it's not rocket science!), but the male models here in particular, are such a nice breath of fresh air after recent years of the absolute worst castings in menswear and designers dressing them like being masculine and sexy and confident is one toxic combination and like if they just put some starved-looking dude with a fish tattooed on his cheek in a tiny frilly skirt the consumer might feel relief that their phony notion of progress where you have to reduce one to acknowledge the other is happening before their eyes.

Also, I, again, forgot the name of this designer lol but looking good.. and clean and dignified, the way people dress for the job of their dreams. So tired of stuff like.. the Eckhaus Latta designers last week at the end of the show.. it's horror brands like that what makes one want to run to the safety, conventionalism and commercialism of Tom Ford of all things..
 
Don't like it much, but it is appealing. It is very safe. Not too sexy like Versace, not too classic like Armani, not too sensual like YSL or Vauthier, not too formal-casual like the current MaxMara. It is very in-the-middle and I cannot make out anything of it. Nothing that really catches the eye and becomes memorable or a classic. Don't like the dirty grey or the ultraviolet. I'd say the glasses+fur coat look on the blond model is the standout for me, but that is because it feels very TF x Gucci, but in all the good places.
 
Look 45 is nothing short of amazing!
2006 all over again and I love it!
 
Has Frida Giannini taken over Tom Ford?? Because after seeing this collection, I had the same feeling I experienced when I saw Frida´s first collections for Gucci...

Where is Tom here? Those cheap golden buttons scream "Frida", not Tom!!
 
i see what he's trying to do but it comes off dated, repetitive/referential, and random to me. a bit turbulent as in some designs should not have been included due to looking unfinished or too predictable.

yes, reference tom, but also set yourself apart. it's like his head is still in the books instead of being fully in the moment of praxis. there unrealized potential here. i hope peter pushes himself to use the archive as inspiration or launchboard, not as a crutch or a ball and chain holding him back.
 

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