Tom Ford F/W 2025.26 Paris

[chriswiles]

Generic clothes, there is nothing that stands out, nothing that lets you identify this as TF by HA.

Well, TF clearly liked it.

At previous Peter Hawkings shows I do remember coming away thinking "I'd like this, I'd like that". There was nothing from the menswear that made me think "yeah, that's for me". All looks a little late 90s for me?

Also, where were the accessories? One thing TF London told me was that Zenga wanted to increase revenue from accessories and that the current range was too similar to those from the past (think same bag style, different colours). I was expecting to see new bags and other accessories.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Well, TF clearly liked it.

At previous Peter Hawkings shows I do remember coming away thinking "I'd like this, I'd like that". There was nothing from the menswear that made me think "yeah, that's for me". All looks a little late 90s for me?

Also, where were the accessories? One thing TF London told me was that Zenga wanted to increase revenue from accessories and that the current range was too similar to those from the past (think same bag style, different colours). I was expecting to see new bags and other accessories.

We don't need to see any bags for the debut this was perfect on the accessories let's see the clothes. I'm sick of seeing tons of bags of the runway

 

[chriswiles]

We don't need to see any bags for the debut this was perfect on the accessories let's see the clothes. I'm sick of seeing tons of bags of the runway

You miss my point - the previous runway shows were accessorised and, as I mentioned, Zegna made a point to TF London that this was an area where they wanted growth.

Have a look back at the previous two shows. Both featured new bags etc. You might be 'sick of it' but it's a key part of the TF style for me. I don't need to see yet another men's suit I'll never wear (who wears these in 2025?)

 

[brandon J pierre]

He should have just designed this collection under his own name.
Nothing here is screaming Tom Ford. Some of ya'll are seeing what you wanna see.
Also, something about Haider annoys the f*** out of me.

I think what annoys you about him is that he's a very old-timer designer with a lot of pain. Pain in the craft obsessing over every piece every detail the look and it can lose it's fun. To be honest with you he reminds me a lot of Ralph Rucci. He's an emotional version of Tom Ford. Not me, but some people think that Tom Ford is pompous I don't think that I think he's fabulous. But imagine that pompous attitude but inward emotional thinking. Anyways it was a great collection.

 

[brandon J pierre]

You miss my point - the previous runway shows were accessorised and, as I mentioned, Zegna made a point to TF London that this was an area where they wanted growth.

Have a look back at the previous two shows. Both featured new bags etc. You might be 'sick of it' but it's a key part of the TF style for me. I don't need to see yet another men's suit I'll never wear (who wears these in 2025?)

Yes I understand, leave that for the stores and for advertisement. We will see bags and all types of shoes to come. It wasn't necessary for this particular presentation. We didn't need their business plan displayed for the world to see like at Louis Vuitton and Gucci which looks so sad.

 

[Lola701]

It is not a bad collection for his namesake label but it doesn't work for TF. I am disappointed probably because my expectations were too high. It is a bit sad to see the once hypersexual woman kind of blending into his androgynous female type. The problem with Haier for TF is his good taste doesn't allow him to be a bit tacky and vulgar.

Haider’s own personal collections looked drastically different from what he showed here or at Gaultier.
We don’t see complicated pliages, his particular shape of pants and things like that.

He has found a way to define his work on more classic and pragmatic clothes but Dries Van Noten was more Haider in a way.

This has the right amount of spirit from both.

 

[Demna]

I don't know what people see in Mona and Vittoria but I'd rather have Mica and Kiki.

 

[Xone]

From the press release:

A beginning is a new dance. You start by looking at your partner, acknowledging differences, exploring similarities, trying to find ways to match each other’s steps and move harmoniously.

Entering the house that Mr Tom Ford built I was drawn to the man himself, whose personality reverberates through everything he envisioned. He is nightlife, I am the morning after: this is where our dance begins. Inside a chamber bathed in grey, with guests seated on plush benches, steamy mirrors all around bearing traces of the night before.

Private rooms, in clubs, are the mysterious places where things happen that not everyone can access. That unattainability is a distance that charms, fueling desire. TOM FORD is a world of desire. It lures and seduces.

To seduce means to bring someone close, drawing a gaze, enticing touch, stimulating senses, rewarding discovery with surprise and beauty.

Sensuality is the feeling of beauty. I welcomed my beauties here: the noble personalities embodying my idea of what makes an individual today. Their androgyny brings alive the vertical directness of what they wear, the ease of pure lines empowered by the full blast of color.

Colors of joy. Bright pastels that are fresh and uplifting, on suits and dresses as immediate as t-shirts; vivid hues that also glisten on the eyes as powdery eyeshadows. Grey, and full black, stay, because they are in the personality of this house.

There is dignity in pureness, in taking away rather than decorating, in turning decoration into architectural shapes that complement or neatly accessorize the body. A T runs on heels, jewels, belts, like a hidden message.
The morning after all that’s unnecessary has been left behind. What remains is feelings, impressions and lips bleeding red that have been kissed for the whole night.

I believe in love
Haider

 

[Lola701]

^^
So it’s possible to do a show note without mentioning an artist, a writer or a philosopher!
Wow! Maybe a lot more people should take note.
Good

 

[tricotineacetat]

One thing I will say in addition is how most of the dresses in this collection read as if they had been designed by a menswear designer who for the first time was tasked to do womenswear - That, along with the many repeating suiting looks created an imbalance that needs to be balanced out, as Haider moves on forward with his vision for Tom Ford - A bit more fluid dressmaking, a sumptous cashmere falling just off the shoulders could be such offerings to bring a less 'serious' attitude to the Tom Ford brand that I think has not been emphasized enough on in the past years.

 

[mteb123]

Didn’t like this!! Like some have pointed out it’s missing the Tom Ford in Tom Ford… Their worlds are too different… Just even the girls, the make up and it just lacks… Like some have said it’s Cold… We need Fire… Haider is talented but I’m just not sold on his Tom Ford…

 

[kasper!]

I am not convinced...Tom was famous for p*rno chic and a sense of vulgarity. I don't see them here. On the other part menswear is always the same.

 

[Salvatore]

It was a good debut and I see where he can grow. I didn't really see much that I would die for like I was hoping, but I did like a few pieces like the leather trousers and tshirts. Overall, I like this mood, but want him to up the voltage and sex because the drama is there and the fashion is close. I am not disappointed at least and I can rest.

Also he is so handsome !!! I can't.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

My favorite piece. It's made of beads, just imagine the price




vogue

 

[cantdesign]

I don’t mind it. Certainly feels like Tom to me, although a bit austere. My main thought is it all feels a bit too masculine? Am I alone here?

 

[reese06]

He should have just designed this collection under his own name.
Nothing here is screaming Tom Ford. Some of ya'll are seeing what you wanna see.
Also, something about Haider annoys the f*** out of me.

For me, it’s the pretentiousness—especially when you see his thirst and likes for the most basic white Grindr gays on Instagram.

That said, this collection does align with the mood Tom Ford originally set when he launched the brand, before things went off the rails and he started chasing "fashion" at the expense of taste and direction.

I think this is the right approach for TF—luxurious, but not trying to insert itself into the broader fashion conversation. Keep it tight, focused, and aimed at a niche luxury clientele.

Personally, it’s a bit too serious and conservative for my taste. I love the opening leather looks, but nothing here feels truly desirable enough to break the bank for.

It’s a fine debut.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

It’s just bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, bad, extremly bad, very bad, like really bad, bad as hell, awfully bad, unexpectedly bad, like come on guys bad, shush bad, sadly bad, but at the end just BAD! For me at least!!!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I find everything very 2010 coded, déjà-vu and not very fresh.

The proportions are very straight, stiff, strict. Boring accessories. Basic use of colors.
I don't find the easiness I associate Haider Ackermann with, nor the sexy DNA of Tom Ford.

The best thing ?
The way Haider, himself, wears his suit. His body language also. This is the best moment of the show. I wished the men and all the models had that same seductive vibe and easiness regarding the clothes they wear.

Incredible show not otherwise. Feels honest and personal.

 

[Lola701]

I think that Haider did what was necessary for Tom Ford.
When people hear Tom Ford, many things comes to mind even before the reality of Tom Ford the brand.

Tom Ford the brand is above all a brand created with a sense of formality. What Tom Ford did when he launched his fragrances, sunglasses and suits in the late 2000’s was already anachronistic and dated for a lot of people back then.

That kind of opulence wasn’t of the time. But with perfect Art Direction, a clear vision and a strong product, he built his own powerhouse brand. Yes, eventually, it became hype and trendy and he infused a new energy in sartorial dressing but this is the reality of the brand.

So Haider doing Tom Ford (the design heritage in our memory) at Tom Ford (the brand) was never going to be the kind of fun people expect from his Gucci years.

This exercise de style is the best way to introduce his vision but also to re-install Tom Ford in some sort of fashion conversation that the brand lost as soon as the legendary founder left.

Yes, Hawkings made sexy but that was a sexy that felt dated, like an old Cavalli or Peter Dundas way but also that felt disconnected to the formal nature of Tom Ford the brand. Tom Ford in the 90’s/00’s captured the hedonism of the youth and part of the nostalgia of his generation and made something modern that has become aspirational for generations.

Tom Ford the brand has become aspirational in it representation of power, luxury and sensuality. The early womenswear collections of Tom were that: formal, powerful, yes maybe more playful but they weren’t deemed « modern » because people wanted him to be in the fashion conversation when his brand informed De Facto a new context.

I think Haider brought back the church in the middle of the village.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think that Haider did what was necessary for Tom Ford.
When people hear Tom Ford, many things comes to mind even before the reality of Tom Ford the brand.

Tom Ford the brand is above all a brand created with a sense of formality. What Tom Ford did when he launched his fragrances, sunglasses and suits in the late 2000’s was already anachronistic and dated for a lot of people back then.

That kind of opulence wasn’t of the time. But with perfect Art Direction, a clear vision and a strong product, he built his own powerhouse brand. Yes, eventually, it became hype and trendy and he infused a new energy in sartorial dressing but this is the reality of the brand.

So Haider doing Tom Ford (the design heritage in our memory) at Tom Ford (the brand) was never going to be the kind of fun people expect from his Gucci years.

This exercise de style is the best way to introduce his vision but also to re-install Tom Ford in some sort of fashion conversation that the brand lost as soon as the legendary founder left.

Yes, Hawkings made sexy but that was a sexy that felt dated, like an old Cavalli or Peter Dundas way but also that felt disconnected to the formal nature of Tom Ford the brand. Tom Ford in the 90’s/00’s captured the hedonism of the youth and part of the nostalgia of his generation and made something modern that has become aspirational for generations.

Tom Ford the brand has become aspirational in it representation of power, luxury and sensuality. The early womenswear collections of Tom were that: formal, powerful, yes maybe more playful but they weren’t deemed « modern » because people wanted him to be in the fashion conversation when his brand informed De Facto a new context.

I think Haider brought back the church in the middle of the village.

That‘s an accurate observation but it also merits the question whether or not the house *needs* to remain a very formal dressing associated brand or if it makes sense to loosen up those codes a bit, as it moves on forward - While suiting is at the heart of Zegna‘s know-how, we have also seen Tom Ford that were more casual in spirit, maybe acknowledging the fact that less and less people (particularly men) dress in full-on suiting looks the way Tom Ford envisioned them, with ties, pocket square or cuff links.

What was great about Haider‘s Berluti was a balance between sportswear and laid-back formal wear elements that I hope he will bring in the future - Spring/summer should be a good place to try that out!