Tom Ford F/W 2025.26 Paris

[EDEN21]

Too cold, too sterile for me. I miss the TF’s energy, the irreverence, the bad taste.

I agree the collection is frigid, but we definitely got "bad taste" with the air-out-your-hoo-ha dress, which is more than enough bad taste for me

 

[chriswiles]

Yes. But it’s also what Tom did if I remember well in 2014. His menswear loosen up, he introduced sneakers, jeans and created a wardrobe that felt relevant to that aesthetic.

We must remember, from the mouth of Peter Hawkings himself, effectively Peter said he autonomously managed the menswear design team from London, whilst TF looked after womenswear in LA. Sounded like Hawkings has was left to design all the TF menswear for many years, keeping relative consistency which remained through the last two collections, too (AW24 and SS25).

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am sorry but I am still thinking the positive bias towards HA that most fashion critics, fashion lovers and insider in general share, heavily influenced their opinion n this debut show. Let's be honest, HA in this forum is a god like figure like Theyskens and Ghesquiere, they could send models down the runway in flip flops and covered by a back stage bathrobe and could get Away with that being considered avant garde and innovative. But after all, Theyskens was Not selling a single gown at Rochas and those two Nina Ricci drag Queen shows commercially flopped so hard, same for HA eponymous brand and his Berluti gig. No matter how they going to hide this, but fashion critics and insiders cannot help but hating a purely hedonistic, glamorous and "tacky" (in the good extent of the term) fashion proposition a la Versace or Cavalli, on other hand they are obsessed with this kind of heavily pretentious and "intellectual" proposition toned down by some gimmick to make it look "fun" and relatable. Had this collection been presented by Peter Hawkings, the same exact People that are currently raving about it would have trashed it and considered sterile, derivative and devoid of any glamour. Kristen Mcnenamy was wearing fvcking trousers that were at least 10 inches longer than her legs and no one gave a damn...come on now, show some integrity. Models were literally bumping into each other, making it look like a fashion show from Georgia fashion week with 10 bucks of a budget and people are still saying "best show of the season". Julia Nobis' gown had the slit too high and it was flashing her panties: David Koma does a basic slit and it's considered tacky and vulgar for instagram hookers, HA gives a terribly fitted gown to one of the most unsexy and unglamorous models of the history of fashion and no one says anything cause it's HA for Tom Ford...fashion is the definition of double standards and critics being extremely hypocritical, also it prove you can do anything if you are backed up by a reputable name. This is why Miuccia Prada can send models covered with undone greasy hair dressed in trash sacks and People without a single critica even daring to say she is completely out of touch with reality.
This is a YSL by Pilati collection at Best with the amount of Black, leather paired with the austere avant garde hair and makeup.
We will see in one year if the collection will be liked and bought by the actual TF customer, the gifted PR items count nothing.

I was among the people who met Peter Hawkings two collection with positive reception so I‘m not exactly sure you can call my view on Haider's debut collection biased, particularly when I raised a few points of criticism of my own… That being said, (much like a good amount of what Haider designed for Berluti) it‘s the kind of clothes I would gravitate towards, maybe in a less formal styling, by swapping the shirt and tie for a sleek knit. I’m glad he updated the signature Tom Ford tailoring with slimmer lapels and a more modern proportion, it’s the kind of fashion that I could see myself wearing as I’m reaching 40, if I had the kind of job and regular occasion to dress up in such finery on a regular basis. That being said, I have a fair amount of Dior Homme, a bit of Saint Laurent, Celine and a bit of well-cared for vintage Helmut Lang that would mix perfectly with Haider's Tom Ford and as a menswear customer, I appreciate that sort of consistency over the grand reinvention, of which Haider Ackermann was never the kind.

Not sure what the supposed commercial success has to mean in a forum where fashion enthusiasts share their passion, as I think most people here agree with me we can be grateful for any designer with a sincere point of view (among which I would count Haider Ackermann without a doubt!) that has managed to stay or even return to the fashion industry - The list of those who are struggling or have left for good is long enough, among them, yes, people like Olivier Theyskens and many others whose work have contributed greatly to contemporary fashion design.

 

[Lola701]

We must remember, from the mouth of Peter Hawkings himself, effectively Peter said he autonomously managed the menswear design team from London, whilst TF looked after womenswear in LA. Sounded like Hawkings has was left to design all the TF menswear for many years, keeping relative consistency which remained through the last two collections, too (AW24 and SS25).

Yes but the direction of the brand was still decided by Tom or at least embraced. It’s not like suddenly Tom was surprised by the direction his menswear took.

 

[chriswiles]

Yes but the direction of the brand was still decided by Tom or at least embraced. It’s not like suddenly Tom was surprised by the direction his menswear took.

Kind of. If you read some of the interviews, Hawkings and Ford were quite detached. Hawkings admitted he and Tom only met up twice a year. He also said it was clear Tom allowed him to 'just get on with it' and trusted him with the work he was achieving.

 

[Lola701]

Kind of. If you read some of the interviews, Hawkings and Ford were quite detached. Hawkings admitted he and Tom only met up twice a year. He also said it was clear Tom allowed him to 'just get on with it' and trusted him with the work he was achieving.

Of course they met twice a year for the shows. It doesn’t mean that Tom wasn’t aware of what was going on lol.
It’s like Karl when he stopped designing for his own brand, he was still aware of what the collections looked like.
It just shows that there was some sort of level of trust that allowed Tom to give him such a responsibility. I mean, Hawkings even morphed into Tom lol.

 

[chriswiles]

Of course they met twice a year for the shows. It doesn’t mean that Tom wasn’t aware of what was going on lol.

Of course Tom knew what's going on. The point is, Hawkings mostly had full control over the menswear design and basically controlled that direction. TF wasn't as hands on as you like to speculate, even with your bizarre use of 'lol'.

 

[QuantumCouture]

Looks like an attempt to fuse Tom Ford’s confidence with Ackermann’s penchant for sharp sophistication. Sometimes it works, e.g. those elegant silhouettes and some glossy finishes do evoke old Hollywood meeting modern severity. But occasionally, it’s as if Ackermann said, ‘Yes, but quieter.’ And quiet is not what Tom Ford built his house on.

 

[kasper!]

I have some re-see detail photos but last time I posted something like those here, I got a warming PM

 

[Alquimista]

who is this model? I like her walk and petulant lips.

 

[tricotineacetat]

who is this model? I like her walk and petulant lips.

Abbey Lee Kershaw?

 

[Kishan]

^ Mila Van Eeten I believe.

 

[Xone]

who is this model? I like her walk and petulant lips.

Mila Van Eeten she was blond then brunette and now back to blond again...

 

[Lola701]

^^
Haider did her wrong with that dress. Clearly inspired by the one Carolyn Murphy wore in Tom’s first show.
Would have been better in a more slinky fabric maybe.

 

[Creative]

In movement it’s a tad better

 

[proseccotabis]

who is this model? I like her walk and petulant lips.

am i the only one that thinks that this dress looks cheap..? idk . this parakeet color at BV looked rich and expensive, but in this particular collection and in this particular look idk..

 

[FashioNarrating]

You just don't do satin in traffic light green.. not even Miuccia did it and she loves using both satin and awful colors.

 

[jeanclaude]

am i the only one that thinks that this dress looks cheap..? idk . this parakeet color at BV looked rich and expensive, but in this particular collection and in this particular look idk..

It looks like a green walking sleeping bag with sleeves attached.

 

[jeanclaude]

After watching the video, I can say this collection could work as Giorgio Armani by Haider Ackermann. It could suit and modernize Armani style; but not Tom Ford.

 

[Lola701]

It looks like a green walking sleeping bag with sleeves attached.

If he used silk satin it would have worked. This is clearly not the gown needed for all the drama act the model was doing. With a gown like that, she has to stand straight.
‘However the mini version in looked great.