Tom Ford Menswear F/W 2023.24 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Norden]

There’s a deepening crisis going on at Tom ford. He’s cheapening his brand.

 

[lowfive1715]

There’s a deepening crisis going on at Tom ford. He’s cheapening his brand.

The Vogue review said that he’s leaving the brand or something to that effect?

 

[Lola701]

A collection of essentials, a good return to the original « Tom Ford look » but much more modernized.
I love the blue and lilac for men…Simply delicious and the velvet suits are kinda expected but refreshing compared to the usual very loud dinner jackets.

He is setting the foundation for his legacy and exit and it’s done quite in a subtle way. It will be interesting to see how the collections and campaigns of this year will look like.

Who will be bold enough to wear the blue suit?!!

 

[andrew]

I find this all to be likable, wearable and luxurious... which to me is the point of the label. I'm not going to TF to make a statement.

 

[brandon J pierre]

im sorry but this is so sexy, also real, no dresses or long to the ground trains on a man! this is real and real lux just right , and the black is done right

 

[LadyJunon]

The whole collection is just handsome. The second to last turquoise suit is my favourite.

 

[jeremydante]

Growing bored of seeing the same things from Tom, honestly. I miss the days where Jon Kortarjarena was modeling for him.

 

[Ribs666]

Love the collection, especially the pants!

 

[Lola701]

Growing bored of seeing the same things from Tom, honestly. I miss the days where Jon Kortarjarena was modeling for him.

Are men ready for that kind of flamboyance today?
Yes menswear is more developed, men are willing to try but Tom Ford menswear from 2007/2011 was really flamboyant, loud and fun. He is not even doing furs anymore. I remember the furs moonboots, the very audacious associations.

That kind of dapper, hyper sophisticated men is less appealing today and I think Tom was clever in following that evolution.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The idea of what reads as 'hyper sophisticated' today has totally moved on post COVID, if it hasn't already in the years before. It's only natural therefor that while the suits remain an important part of a Tom Ford collection, he's slowly but steadily added more casual options to accommodate a new reality where a majority of people find it acceptable to wear athleisure clothes 24/7.

This collection emphasizes a lot more on outerwear and that's arguably an easier sell than yet another fancy dinner jacket or suit that his customer already has (the shapes haven't really changed much in the years past) - In another discussion I brought up an interesting parallel between Tom Ford and Haider Ackermann and that's the shared lushness and a confident, yet sophisticated eye for color in their work - I therefor can't help but think the customer who might enjoy the combination of a lavender shearling aviator worn with a matching v-neck might have just as well been enticed to buy from Haider's few collections at Berluti.

That leaves me with the conclusion that when Tom Ford chooses to resign, Haider Ackermann would be the candidate most befitting to guarantee not only a smooth transition but also energize the brand with a new momentum. I don't really see his style much in the lineage of French couturiers but at a brand with a decidedly mature and sophisticated point of view like Tom Ford (or even Zegna/Agnona).

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The idea of what reads as 'hyper sophisticated' today has totally moved on post COVID, if it hasn't already in the years before. It's only natural therefor that while the suits remain an important part of a Tom Ford collection, he's slowly but steadily added more casual options to accommodate a new reality where a majority of people find it acceptable to wear athleisure clothes 24/7.

This collection emphasizes a lot more on outerwear and that's arguably an easier sell than yet another fancy dinner jacket or suit that his customer already has (the shapes haven't really changed much in the years past) - In another discussion I brought up an interesting parallel between Tom Ford and Haider Ackermann and that's the shared lushness and a confident, yet sophisticated eye for color in their work - I therefor can't help but think the customer who might enjoy the combination of a lavender shearling aviator worn with a matching v-neck might have just as well been enticed to buy from Haider's few collections at Berluti.

That leaves me with the conclusion that when Tom Ford chooses to resign, Haider Ackermann would be the candidate most befitting to guarantee not only a smooth transition but also energize the brand with a new momentum. I don't really see his style much in the lineage of French couturiers but at a brand with a decidedly mature and sophisticated point of view like Tom Ford (or even Zegna/Agnona).

This is a brilliant observation and analysis.

 

[brandon J pierre]

This is a brilliant observation and analysis.

But will he Bring the lust sexiness that tom ford needs ! I love Haider but he can be boring

 

[Deleted member 7575]

But will he Bring the lust sexiness that tom ford needs ! I love Haider but he can be boring

More than Tom?!

 

[Lola701]

But will he Bring the lust sexiness that tom ford needs ! I love Haider but he can be boring

I never thought about the idea of Haider because I think his aesthetic in menswear is so specific (just the cut of his pants alone) and I believe they will continue with Peter Hawkings, but in a way what his work for both Gaultier and Berluti proved is that he can think outside the box.
There are codes in Tom Ford menswear: the cut of the jackets, the big lapels, the bold colors and attitude.
Then he can play with whatever Tom Ford represents..His days at Gucci, at YSL, his own brand.

In womenswear his POV can be interesting too. I love how he used Cardin and Madame Gres, designers that influenced Gaultier a lot.

Maybe the thing is that Haider’s work can seem very serious. There’s a need for some sort of humor and ridiculousness to approach Tom Ford I think.