Tzuri Gueta - Textile design

[Marvystone]

A primary experience, almost bare and natural, inhabits the creations of designer Tzuri Gueta. Through him we dive into an aquatic universe where tactile materials that are sensual offer us organic sensations, familiar emotions, but we have difficulty to pin point them within reality.

Tzuri Gueta works with fabrics, materials, and accessories and takes them away from their everyday actuality. In the fabrics which he has created for the haute couture (Thierry Mugler, Lapidus, Armani, Dior, Rochas, Galante, etc.) or in his line of silicone accessories that at first appear flat, but in reality are three dimensional structures. The fabrics have a different appearance from afar and are transformed when approached and held close-up. He prefers to be inspired by nature than to imitate it, and to accomplish this he uses the most exhaustive aspects of modern technology, manipulating different techniques which he develops and invents himself. Thus, what appears to be organically simple from a distance, reveals a work with enormously complex detail when in our hands. The volume is as important as is the shape and colour. A true artistic challenge for the eye and perception : the appearance is deceptive !

Where traditionally manual work will produce a simple prototype, Tzuri Gueta is inspired by the ‘accidents’ as he works and experiments with the materials, continuing on to push and develop his imagination, searching for a more savage realm. The combination of noble fundamental textiles conjugates with others, more common : lace mingles with silicone.
The result is heavily structured, with an aspect of raw nature. The alliance of the traditional and the novel.
The utilisation of industrial raw materials becomes, in his hands, a meticulous geometry which is elaborated through happenstance and the spontaneous nature from which he chooses to create. Sometimes he prefers to work with his hands, even if a mechanical technique exists for an operation. At other moments he will invent a series of industrial procedures that will insure that hazard and ‘accidents’ can infuse each object with the unique.
Tzuri Gueta always begins with a texture or an existent fabric, then goes on to create a devoured surface, triturated in the same way as an animal’s skin. The cloth is cut by laser, transformed with chemicals that only he knows the secrets of. At other times the result is composed, like a computer image, by thousands of pixels. The tiny points are printed or are materialised like tiny mushrooms on the intriguing surface. Every movement perturbs and transforms the material’s initial aspect. By simply looking at the cloth we can imagine the physical sensation it will produce, but when worn, the surprise is always bewildering and sensual.

His latest creation is a series of ‘jewels’, objects and textiles that incorporate silicone. This substance is so natural it is often used for prosthesis in the operating room because it marries so well with the human body. It blends perfectly with different colours and textures. It penetrates the minuscule cavities within lace. It takes the form of unique necklaces and moves colour to the translucid, but we cannot see any stitching because silicone is a complete material through and through. It can imitate wood, ivory, coral or leather, taking on their physical qualities, infusing with a subtle luminosity, while adding new forms and agreeable textures which can be soft, smooth or rough.

It is with audacity that he reveals the hidden side of the scenery, accentuating the fluidity of movement and unleashing the freedom of form. The creations of Tzuri contain, simultaneously, familiar and strange aspects that are synonymous with our sensual and sensory perceptions. A real technological and creative progression, anchored in the history of haute couture and meeting the high quality demands of that are rooted in its tradition.

Translation : Black Sifichi

Some s/s08 work:

tzurigueta

 

[Marvystone]

A/W 07 accessories:

If anyone feels compelled to do some screen caps of his site, it would be appreciated, as there are more interesting examples of his work
(Source same as above)

 

[gius]

ooh thank you marystone
skot4mc posted him in the contemporary textiles thread and his work for Givenchy..
Mr Gueta definitely deserves his own thread though
yes it's amazing what you can do with fibers/fabrics really...
i have also met up with a little group of craftsters who make beads out of tyvek seems a popular thing in the UK

 

[Marvystone]

ooh Gius where is this contemporary textile thread?

the fabrics which he has created for the haute couture (Thierry Mugler, Lapidus, Armani, Dior, Rochas, Galante, etc.)

^I would love to see these but I guess it's very much a behind the scenes thing

mocoloco

 

[gius]

I guess we'd have to do some research on that ^
since they don't credit all the collaborators.. only the designer/representative

Here's the thread:
Innovative contemporary Textile Design
near bottom Page 2

 

[Marvystone]

Originally posted by skot4mc:

He was also responsible for the 'coral' like textile at the shoulders underneath this Givenchy S/S 07 HC dress...

images from style.com

According to his agent and Diane Pernet respectively:

...building upon an already successful career developing his silicone and silk textile designs techniques for Haute Couture designers (Givenchy - Jan 07 (detailing on dress worn by Eva Green at the Oscars), Armani, Mugler, Galante etc&elispe.

Apart from his signature collection, he has collaborated with designers including Givenchy (Haute Couture, Paris winter 07/08, detailing on a dress worn by Eva Green at the Oscars in March 07), GIORGIO ARMANI (Collection ‘DONNA’ 2004), CHRISTIAN DIOR (Haute couture, Paris, winter 2001/2002)...

Hmmm....

 

[gius]

Oh! actually the fabrics for those labels (HC and pret a porter) are all on his website --they are just not all labelled, so I don't know which designer they are for

but here's one from the website:
haute couture
Thierry Mugler (date unknown)

 

[gius]

That's brilliant, marvystone !!

My professor's work is kind of like those in the beginning The texture can be made with certain kinds of inks and things...

Since he's using silicone, I assume it's pretty lightweight and it also feels like rubber

 

[Marvystone]

tzurigueta

 

[Marvystone]

Givenchy Spring 2007 HC

L'officiel:

tzurigueta/style