Ulla Johnson F/W 2024.25 New York

I'm so happy she's expanding into menswear now! The collection itself is, as always, full of really strong pieces, and the textile work is impressive. It's such a relief to have her in New York because her work has always been solid and just a great pleasure to look at.
 
Aside from the weird styling on some of the exits, this was a solid show. The menswear needs a bit of work, which is understandable seeing that it's her first effort. She's definitely one of my consistent favourites at New York.
 
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I just wish she had added a few more menswear as it felt like an afterthought but nonetheless it’s all so chic! She’s like America’s Dries plus Chloé. She gets better every season. Her brand is just always refreshing to see every NYFW and probably one of the better presentations so far. It’s unpretentious unlike some of the designers/brands in NY with their ‘modern’ bullsh*t.
 
The womenswear is effortless and great. The menswear doesn’t quite have the same ease so I’m not convinced yet
 
I just wish she had added a few more menswear as it felt like an afterthought but nonetheless it’s all so chic! She’s like America’s Dries plus Chloé. She gets better every season. Her brand is just always refreshing to see every NYFW and probably one of the better presentations so far. It’s unpretentious unlike some of the designers/brands in NY with their ‘modern’ bullsh*t.
Exactly that!

She's New York's version of Dries with undertones of Chloé: eclectic, colourful, romantic, but she still has her own distinct dialect. She does the job very well too. It's a very hard vision to pull off as it requires enough restraint on the prettiness to avoid falling into the saccharine. Her collections are very refreshing next to the cold minimalists and the art school kids.

It's also quite impressive to see the rapid trajectory of Johnson in the past 7 years. She started her brand back in 1999, but she only started expansion in 2017 with runway shows and retail. The pandemic really leveled up her designs and show productions starting from SS21, which was the first that really hit me.

While, according to Vogue and WWD, the "menswear" shown here is just womenswear styled on male models, I'd like to see her fully expand into menswear.
 
It's a little too ruffled for my liking, but I love the fabrics for a lot of this. Gorgeous colours, textures and plissé, which is why I think the ruffles are bit much here because there's already a fair amount going on.

I feel as though Ulla would be a good creative director for Etro. She's certainly a cut above most at NYFW.
 
i see why she would be compared to Dries, Etro, Chloe and the likes. The clothes are well made and it very her. But everything just looks so.... middle-age. I guess that is her target audience.
 
Exactly that!

She's New York's version of Dries with undertones of Chloé: eclectic, colourful, romantic, but she still has her own distinct dialect. She does the job very well too. It's a very hard vision to pull off as it requires enough restraint on the prettiness to avoid falling into the saccharine. Her collections are very refreshing next to the cold minimalists and the art school kids.

It's also quite impressive to see the rapid trajectory of Johnson in the past 7 years. She started her brand back in 1999, but she only started expansion in 2017 with runway shows and retail. The pandemic really leveled up her designs and show productions starting from SS21, which was the first that really hit me.

While, according to Vogue and WWD, the "menswear" shown here is just womenswear styled on male models, I'd like to see her fully expand into menswear.
I also only knew about her during the pandemic and I'm surprised she's already been around since 1999? I do love how she's consistent with her 'aesthetic' as a designer, which only proves how honest she is with her craft and that's very rare these days. I really hope she'll venture more into menswear soon.
 

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