I wanted to like it so bad, this being his first womenswear show in quite a while, but it just looks so 2007! The balloon sleeve dresses with colored tights, the metallic leather and those body-con dresses with zippers across them.
It doesn’t read as sophisticated or current in any way, he’s capable of much more.
I think there is potential but he needs to clear his head.
I see nods to McQueen (Lee of course), YSL (Monsieur…), Lanvin (by Elbar). it’s nuanced which doesn’t bother me - homages when respectful are digne even when unintentional.
my favourite parts are the white outfits plus the grey/ black.
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