US Harper's Bazaar September 2003 : Madonna by Regan Cameron

[that girl]

BAZAAR SEPT MADONNA FALL FASH ISH REVIEW

Best Edits:
"80s Now" Mario Sorrenti photos Hana Soukupova, Tiiu and Diana Dondoe in some radiant diaphanous & sexy flowing dresses. Great work from all involved incl. Recine's Romantic hair and Melanie Ward's editing/styling. Dramatic shadowy photos & lighting by Sorrenti, and he thanks Mel Ward in his profile note at the front. All 3 shining newer models look great, espec Hana but all 3 rock. Nice looks incl formal but fresh dresses by Gucci, Westwood, Ungaro & Gaultier who could complain. This is the Bazaar I'd like to see: new models, sexy clothes, dramatic arty lighting *airkisses*

"The It Bags" Angie Lindvall photo'd by Demarchelier in handbag story but great clothes too. Angie never fails & Demarchelier too, so he will be missed when he joins Conde Nast early in 2004. He's the backbone of HB photogs but maybe we'll see some newer & even sexier pics then, we'll see. Decent editing by katie Grand and good disco hair & makeup by Teddy Charles & Charlotte Tilbury. Some nice clothes incl armani glenplaid jacket; Miu Miu cardigan/vest & Chanel jacket. Id like to see more Angie bikini or lingerie as in August W DKNY ad but like I say angie is super-dependable & prob my fave model mom. *huggs*

"The New Prints" Leticia Birkheuer photo'd by Demarchelier looks like East End or PB settiing. . Demarchelier really excels outdoors, he makes the energy & beauty look easy but that's why he's a brill photog. Nice editing and looks by Briana Wolf, this might be the best edit in Sept HB for leticia's beauty & fresh vibe. also nice looks incl Pucci dress; Kors dress; missoni red pants; Miu Miu & Chanel cardigans & dresses. Leticia is awesome, pretty & energetic & Id like to see more of her, and Hana, too, they freshen up HB at a time this mag needs it most.

"Lace" Elise Crombez photo'd by Inez & Vinoodh. Solid work by all 3 and also mel wards editing; However, despite some worldclass poses by Elise, theres something lacking here, like the photogs didnt really give it something 'extra' and despite Elise's pro moves, she's not at her all-star best either. some nice Goth & romantic black lace looks but this edit is a bit blah like some of Meisel's US Vogue studio shoots: if allowed to 'cut loose' as in Euro mags, I bet elise & inez & Vino could have killed. Just not here. yawn. {Inez & Vino also shot Chloe Sevigny for a Beauty story & she looks really oily & wasted....I mean we can see that any night out in NY! This is supposed to be a fashion-fantasy mag! }

"the New Mod Squad" Lindbergh's solid Mod fashion, art, & lifestyle & decor edit. Only one main fashion models pic but check out this cast: Leticia, dewi, adina, Tiiu, Hana, Jessica Stam, Caroline Winberg & Leigh Yeager. If this shoot had taken up 20 pages it could have made the Sept ish but as it is theres ONE big pic and then lots of lifestyle & art 60s vs. 2003 comparisons. Its a quality & strong edit, incl op-art; carnaby street; warhol, the usual Mod suspects but with the models I listed from the opening page, this is a bit of a non-starter.

"Hair Special" Claudia Schiffer photo'd by Scavullo. Guess what, new-mom Claudia STILL looks radiantly blonde & angelic. see? I CAN be fair to 80's ex-supes. when theyre as blonde & germanic as mein schnitzel Claudia. --and shot by all-time great Scavullo!! many airkissies.

Bad edits:
"Fall's New Classics" Linda E shot by Solve Sundsbo. The lead edit in the most important HB of the year is given over to 80s flashback linda. Sorry she resembles Tina Louise now & Glenda's obvious catering to the 40-50-60-ish set has destroyed several HB's since 2002 and threatens to wreck this one. Linda E should retire NOW & I am not the only fashionista who called for her exit after seeing this edit. sorrs.

"Coats of the Season" Cindy C photo'd by demarchelier. Did someone say 80s flashbacks? Whoops I thought the Linda edit was bad. well Cindy's back & the clothes (and the MODEL!!) are even WORSE than in Linda's!! Glenda is really hitting that 50-something demographic & suddenly Britney's S&M in Aug W is looking better & better . aroooffaaaahhh. No more Cindy in HB PLEASEEE!!!!

"Chic Must Haves" Frankie Rayder photo'd by Lindbergh. Time for the 90s flashback now for you 30-40-somethings. Listen, in 1996 I would have LOVED these clothes on Frank by Lindbergh. Not now. Nothing against Frank actually she still radiates some of the sensuality and poise that made her alluring back in the 90s. But glenda's ageism drags down these old-model edits & makes the new-model edits at top have less impact too. It's poor editorial direction & notice that Euro mags are not dependant on 80s & 90s ex-supes?? Sorry to be so stark but when you have Hana, Leticia & Tiiu above Cindy & Frank are wayyyy unwelcome below. arrooffaaahhoooofff.

Bad Cover Story. madonna in her Gap ad & tweed cap. Gizzus a break. did the Gap buy like a years worth of new ads? I like maddy's blue cords shes wearing. I LOVE her music from Everybody & Angel to deeper & deeper & Music & Junior's mixes of American life. BUT why 2 pics of maddys new gap ad as cover & editorial??! ?? and the 2 page "20 years of maddy" flashback special DEFINES the phrase fashion victim. Like I say, the MUSIC, I LOVE!!! but the only items that hold up here are: '95 Tom Ford gucci girl (looks overdone trendy now}; 2000 Britney glitter tee {Go, Britney, our NEW Lucky Star!! } 2001 Gaultier tartan skirt {a cliche, No Doubt} and celine Mod coat 2003. {maddy can afford anything but modelling lessons} What is Glenda Bailey thinking???

There's also a DIANE LANE edit by Lindbergh; for 40-something she looks great but I remember Diane being a sexy new actress when I was in like grade school...what's with these retro features for 40-50-somethings???

Picture this: Hot pics when we need them:: Mariacarla in kors minidress. major major!

louise in chanel white cardigan & skirt: & black lace camisole & knee socks: Lolita come to life! Its LOVE!!!

"Greatest Hair Moments" flashback incl Bardot '57; Julie Christie '75; farrah '76 & Deb Harry '78. Can't argue with them cakes!!!

Hot ads: Daria again in Prada stripes best blouse in issue;

Natalia in big CK ad. when properly made up, hairstyled, lit, and dressed, as here, nativ IS one of the very best models alive. and her thinness is PERFECTION here, not sickly scary as sometimes. I think its how shes shot & styled & CK does it great. Is it bruce weber?? Ive been asking, or Sorrenti? anyway GREAT pics for CK.

Elise for ralph great English tweedy fall looks. Props to ralph for using edgy Elise in his ultra-traditional & beautiful ads.
also Elise for Jil Sander. wow cool blurry pics but elise's pouty lips are unmissable . and Sooo kissable. *smooch*

Jessy Miller in Paris for Givenchy. nice motion from Jessy in this campaign. her body doesnt quit. hugggs.

amanda moore for Oscar. wow the feminine amanda!! sooooo beautiful, sexy +++++ love her!!!
also amanda in celine zebra print. more smoochies!!!

tasha handcuffed for Ken Cole!! Mr. PC himself likes S&M !! props to ken & endless luvvies to gorgeous tasha. S&M is A-OK! *kiss*

carmen for Chanel. this is Carm's natural hair color, a dark brunette & I love it too. One of the best cute & sexy in her ultimate modelism. huggggs.

amazing blonde aryan for Ungaro: is it Yfke?? anyway blonde perfection & super romantic luxe dresses. EU rules!!

Jacquetta 8 pages for Cavalli. great pics & always stellar work from jacquetta Love You!!! One of the best. whoever shot (looks like Testino?} this ad is better than most of the photos in this ish!!

Bad Ads: J. Lo. abysmally angry & drab for LV. The black murakamis are AWESOME. the classless and belligerent actress makes a poor model. gobble gobble:Turkey.

VERDICT. Thumbs up with some reservations. There are enough good things about this ish like new models and an array of fashion looks & some hot fall ads throughout to give it a positive review...BUT I noted some very worrisome trends from 80s ex-supes weighing the edits down to some mediocre image-making from star photogs to too many stories designed for Glenda's 50+ women. This all-things to all-readers demographic is preventing the style of HB to shine in the 21st Century. Decades ago HB was a trend-setting arty publication ; and the same was true as recently as circa 1994 with Fabien Barron's avant-garde design & art direction. Aside from some nice typefaces & a very few pics in the key Sept. Fall HB ish, the Bazaar of 2003 has little to offer the fan of fresh & modern fashion. That's pretty worrisome & only a lot more new models & extraordinary photography can improve the situation. I thank you.

 

[LolitaLuxe]

another review

thanks for the time. again i havnt picked this ish up!
but i will.....im happy about the models, perhaps they are getting a clue?
oh and on to madge's fashion........good and bad! right now - i say bad! the tweed cap and tank reminds me of the singer from ac/dc !!! brian johnson is it? who made who!!!!???

i love the 80/s but my god bazaar just caught on this winding trend?

i love scavullo big haaaairrr

 

[that girl]

when you see the maddy pics from 83-03 im curious which ones you like & dont. I named the ones that still look ok but shes also taken a lot of 'risks' so to speak fashion wise.--
actually its pretty short story...i dont know whats up except for gap ad $$$$????

yes Claudia has beautiful blonde by scavullo: see I CAN like SOME old models!

yes brian johnson!! funnyyy!!!


the W is GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! kate is soooooo hot like better than I cld have expected!! and BRILLLLLL photogs!!!!

huggggs

 

[LolitaLuxe]

im getting both mags over the weekend i'll put in my 2 cents soon

 

[LolitaLuxe]

i havnt seen bazaar this thick in ages ,.....

campaigns i liked :
givenchy! im a freak for anything parisian + the sexy red lighting - the kiss shot is hot !

natalia looks sweet and seductive for CK but a little out of place= imo=

jlo for lv MAKE IT STOP!!!! i want off !

mariacarla in ferre suit was cool

elise for ralph lauren? i was surprised

pacotti

valentino love this!!! im a huge fan of bourdin's photography and any obvious influence makes me shreik

xtina for versace i saw a few small pics of this and thought she looked good, but as i see it in magazine form i find her challengeing to look at

chloe advert was cool too

madge--- i think you are right about the gap $$ being the reason for this cover the small few paragraphs mainly of others opinion on her style was useless. and the madonna timeline could have been better

the best looks =imo= were '90 gaultier corset - i still the blonde ambition even as a brunette also more gaultier at his RTW show '94 she looks like a godess ! '98 theyskens still looks good to and the '99 gucci ....everything else
i like her 80/s look but they could have found better pics.
the britney shirt was lame- she wore a kylie in europe. the D&G rhinstone cowgirl looks awful!

and the new brian johnson look is not interesting to me either. the hat doesnt do much for the shape of her head.the funny picture of her at versace couture looks like she is going to get up and slap the photographer

i loved the lace edit !! the helmut lang boots
the 80/s edit was nice too.
the chic must haves edit with frankie rayder or missy ?? i dont know i hated. i didnt like her- i feel a different model could have been better, the new prints , coats of the season i didnt care for either.

ok ish

 

[utopia]

Originally posted by LolitaLuxe@Aug 15th, 2003 - 9:40 pm
campaigns i liked :
givenchy! im a freak for anything parisian + the sexy red lighting - the kiss shot is hot !

stupid question, but who is the guy in this campaign? I love these ads too. very beautiful.

overall I thought the bazaar issue was alright...I liked the unconventional face bit - tilda swinton has such an elegant style.

 

[LolitaLuxe]

funny utopia, i want to know who he is too

i love tilda swinton too...very unique almost
elizabethen -esque . good article too. beauty is an experience - i loved that comment , so true, and much better than the played out 'eye of the beholder' excuse.

i also thought the kevin aucoin tribute was nice but could have been better also

what did you think of the madonna timeline? i thought all the award show pics were a bit bland considering all of her big fashion statements were in her music videos


happy bithday madonna!!!

 

[that girl]

the guy in the givenchy ads is this model who's been around a while: I think hes german and his name is caspar or hans or sm other german name. He used to model CK a while ago: Ive alwasy thought hes one of the hottest looking guys.

kevyn aucoin was so talented the testimonials from the celebs seemed a bt weak like they cldnt think of anything to say but the pics said it all.

the XTina campaign so far isnt doing much for me but I want to see all the ads in sum: W has one better pic than HB of XTina so maybe Vogue or elsewhere will hv sm beter pics . so far- blah.

I liked the 80s also & elise lace. I was happy to see leticia, shes fresh but not so edgy.

yes seeing Frank Rayder, Cindy C & Linda E also was a bummer.

the new W has none of that--kate looks so amazing & the artists make it expoentially better.

W notes soon!

thanks

 

[Astrid21]

Originally posted by utopia@Aug 16th, 2003 - 8:02 pm
Overall I thought the bazaar issue was alright...I liked the unconventional face bit - tilda swinton has such an elegant style.

I love, love, love Tilda.

Here's an editorial shot by Craig McDean for i-D (The Action Issue).

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by Astrid21@Aug 17th, 2003 - 9:35 am


Here's an editorial shot by Craig McDean for i-D (The Action Issue). [/color]

I love thous shots and that issue, I wish i had bought it

 

[LolitaLuxe]

what do you think of the miu miu ads???

i just have to get this off my chest- i loathe their campaigns....as always. i cannot stand the way prada takes a 15 yr old girl and turn her into a colorless 49 yr old WW2 widow

ha ha cheers geez-ah

the 'lace' '80's' & 'mod squad' were the only styles i could relate too all the lady like styles covered, croc print, 'older woman younger man' article etc is not for me :grrr:

what did you think of the plastic surgery article? the 'one woman who got a breast aumentation w/o her husband knowing' comment was a bit much, i dont believe that. its amazing how these maga bazaar, elle etc are covering plastic surgury like mad

 

[that girl]

yes the current miu miu campaign is strangely flat....espec when compared to the new Prada ads with daria shot in NY with awesome clothes....

BUT I go to Miu Miu all the time on Madison & theres TONS of great stuff: all at (at least) half the Price of Prada--which is on the same block!!- Im wearing a lot of military now, navy seaman jacket, tan & khaki army shirts, french striped navy sweaters, I want to get army green pants & Miu makes some of the better cuts. I might buy the ralph Laurens tho his fall clothes, just arrived at 72nd st, has TONSSSS of LUXE military: its AWESOME but as $$$$ as Prada!

BUT the Prada store has MUCH MUCH better clothes than Miu but soooo much more expensive.

I like ann-catherine';'s face in the Miu ads but thast about it. Look in the Miu store in LA tho ull see some great looks at affordable prices. I like Miu much more tha Emporio Armani in fact I will only wear top line Armani cus Emporio is like Armani Gap.

I have to look at the surgery again: I dont want any surgery so I skip all that....well I want contact lenses but thats about it

 

[Serena]

Originally posted by LolitaLuxe@Aug 17th, 2003 - 1:50 pm
what do you think of the miu miu ads???

i just have to get this off my chest- i loathe their campaigns....as always. i cannot stand the way prada takes a 15 yr old girl and turn her into a colorless 49 yr old WW2 widow

ha ha

the 'lace' '80's' & 'mod squad' were the only styles i could relate too all the lady like styles covered, croc print, 'older woman younger man' article etc is not for me :grrr:

what did you think of the plastic surgery article? the 'one woman who got a breast aumentation w/o her husband knowing' comment was a bit much, i dont believe that. its amazing how these maga bazaar, elle etc are covering plastic surgury like mad

prada/mi miu could use a different direction/concept for their ads, no doubt. but then would they
have to change their image as well? B)

i could not relate to soem of these edits & articles as well, but i don't mind if some stuff in bazaar is targeted towards more mature women. i'm glad i can read it & pass it on to my mom

for me, biggest dissapointment was maddona edit i don't understand how she can be on a cover without a decent article or an interview. and that timeline was less than exciting IMO
i liked "don't be a fashion victim" & 'suffering for fashion" pieces, "celebrate your beauty', "mod squad' & "lace".
now let's what anna vintour comes up with

 

[classic1908]

It's all fine and good to have young girls modeling, but remember that much of the buying power for fashion comes from women over 30. So I don't have an issue with seeing Cindy Crawford, Stephanie Seymour, Iman and such in fashion spreads. JMO.

 

[that girl]

really, now that the population is older, thats why they target 40-5-60+ more than before

BUTTT fash mags were always SHOWING 20-yr old models so I want that to remain.

cindy C & the other 80s monsters shld retire & let us see the greatest models ever, the 2003 group

)))

 

[Kelsey]

I really like those new Miu Miu ads! I wonder why.
They look beautiful to me.

 

[Astrid21]

Originally posted by Kelsey@Aug 21st, 2003 - 4:03 pm


I really like those new Miu Miu ads! I wonder why.
They look beautiful to me.

I like them, too, Kelsey.

 

[Kelsey]

Oh, yes. They look very good to me! I think it's cause it makes me imagine being there. it's outdoors with the water in the back...and the grey, it looks kind of foggy or something. I would love to wear those clothes! I like how their hair looks, and their pale skin...I don't know why but they seem so ROMANTIC to me!

 

[that girl]

they are in a cloudy day mood. I do like the clothes & models

but I think daria at prada is a much better campaign, clothes, style , pics, vibe

miu miu is too much 3rd rate Prada. at the store its too obvs.


prada clothes and store way better


want check them out on madision & 70th??

 

[ignitioned32]

I like Miu Miu. The ad catches what the brand is about, simple chic clothing.