Valentino Resort 2025 Milan

[GivenchyAddict]

For me, the best he did was in 2015, so at the very beginning of his tenure at Gucci: his collections were a nice mix of his POV/his love of vintage 70s romanticism and had a modern approach.

The campaigns with Glen Luchford were also stunning: Gucci - Art Partner

Then he went off into his own crazy universe and never stopped doing way too much. So the clothes are beautiful and look very luxurious, but the whole thing feels dated and costumey.

They show us some images from the archives next to what Alessandro has done, thinking it will be in his favour. Not for me, it makes it worse : he manages to make the looks even more dated, he has stripped away all the glamour and fun, has not managed to make it new and relevant to this day and age.

 

[THD96]

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I don’t know what people are expecting from Valentino in 2024, but I’m personally glad that Alessandro is responding to the archives with his own aesthetic and touch.

What Mr. Valentino did was perfect and should be left in the time period whence it was created in. We don’t need to see what he did Version 2.0, we need to see a different and unique interpretation of his archive.

That is precisely what Alessandro is doing.

Also if you understand the ethos of the brand and why Mr. Valentino did what he did, you will understand what Alessandro is doing at Valentino for the year 2024.

This kind of opulence and extravagance 2024 is almost an act of rebellion against the status quo and against what the prevailing "trends" are today. "Beauty for beauty's sake" and timeless elegance are qualities that Valentino essentially stood for. He was never aspiring to being avant-garde or to creating new shapes and silhouettes like his peers. He instead focused on craftsmanship and timelessness and beauty.

Why are people suddenly expecting the creative director of Valentino to be avant-garde or somehow distinctly new in terms of concepts? This is not the brand to position a Nicolas Ghesquiere type creative director.


LOFFICIEL ITALIA

I mean looking at the inspiration pictures side to side, we can already see what not clicking. Garavani was designed for a really eccentric, opulent jet-set woman, while Michele was designed for kids who pretend to play make-believe.
Will these clothes age well like the clothes that Garavani designed? We’ll see. But I have to say though, his clothes from his Gucci didn't age that well to me already.

Alessandro has the same problem as MGC at Dior. She may make direct homage to Dior but she doesn't understand the spirit of the housee. But she does understand the spirit of Valentino very well.

But I don't think anyone who criticizes him is expecting him to be avant-garde or moving the fashion needles. He already made his impact on fashion with his Gucci, and it is just unrealistic to expect him to do it again with his comeback.
All we asked (at least I do) was to see him evolve and adapt to the current house that he is in. At least have a little bit of awareness of the heritage of the brand. At Gucci, he had more freedom since it was a leather goods house. But Valentino was a fashion house, that had a real fashion legacy.
You mentioned him but Nicolas knows too well not to send out a Balenciaga redux for his LV debut. He knows that it is a different brand with different prepositions.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I don’t know what people are expecting from Valentino in 2024, but I’m personally glad that Alessandro is responding to the archives with his own aesthetic and touch.

What Mr. Valentino did was perfect and should be left in the time period whence it was created in. We don’t need to see what he did Version 2.0, we need to see a different and unique interpretation of his archive.

That is precisely what Alessandro is doing.

Also if you understand the ethos of the brand and why Mr. Valentino did what he did, you will understand what Alessandro is doing at Valentino for the year 2024.

This kind of opulence and extravagance 2024 is almost an act of rebellion against the status quo and against what the prevailing "trends" are today. "Beauty for beauty's sake" and timeless elegance are qualities that Valentino essentially stood for. He was never aspiring to being avant-garde or to creating new shapes and silhouettes like his peers. He instead focused on craftsmanship and timelessness and beauty.

Why are people suddenly expecting the creative director of Valentino to be avant-garde or somehow distinctly new in terms of concepts? This is not the brand to position a Nicolas Ghesquiere type creative director.


LOFFICIEL ITALIA

Correct reading these comments are absolutely silly as if people really were ever into Valentino. Valentino is extremely expensive it's not a run of the mill brand. The couture is heritage and beyond expensive and personal. He designed beautiful dresses for a very extremely rich clientele I don't understand what these critics want him to do that Valentino it's kind of silly. Again we have another good designer in position moving forward in the correct way that is going to turn this brand into a money making machine while hopefully keeping the heritage and the richness of the brand. If he doesn't do that then Valentino will fall to the waist side and be out of business the competition is heavy and people want cheaper clothes. The Valentino I grew up watching is on to itself it's a masterpiece he was a master. But time has definitely moved on since 2008.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I don't think this is a copy-and-paste job as so many of you are saying.

In fact, I think if you strip away all the costumey styling, it's very classic Valentino.

To me, this looks exactly like what it is: Valentino by Alessandro Michele.

Also, I can easily overlook costumey clothes if they are immaculate and gorgeous and these clothes are.

 

[philophile]

Well, if he was trying to make a different interpretation of Valentino's 60s and 70s archives, he pretty much copypasted the clothes, except adding a styling grandma vibe to it, that is not very modern, not very timeless, and sorry, but it's not beautiful nor sexy at all. We live in 2024, not in the 60s nor 70s, when fashion was still very conservative (this is, after all, why we associate this kind of look with grandmother style). Mr. Valentino obviously evolved as a designer and as times changed and I am glad he did, because had he been stuck into that vibe later on, nobody would have bought it nor liked it. It's just fine if AM has his own POV and trademark style, but there always needs to be a balance between that and what a brand has always offered. However, he has managed to make the house look like everything it never was.

 

[Jacque Marcel]

What is all the "Archive" nonsense from the fashion press? As usual, he copies old clothes and somehow is able to make it more dated with his dusty granny taste. His first Gucci was good because it felt vintage but wasn't so heavy handed unlike everything he's done since.

 

[tourbillions]

they are costumes for a film set on the 60s and 70s. not clothes inspired by the 60s and 70s meant to be worn in 2024 or anywhere outside theater or film.

 

[Lola701]

So Michele’s interpretation makes me think that if he does his version of the All White collection Mr Valentino did and that MGC & PPP did, his version will be archives pieces in white with a ton of jewelry…
So basically a curation/styling exercise instead of design…

 

[tourbillions]

So Michele’s interpretation makes me think that if he does his version of the All White collection Mr Valentino did and that MGC & PPP did, his version will be archives pieces in white with a ton of jewelry…
So basically a curation/styling exercise instead of design…

i really would love to see him do a monochromatic show. i think it would be fabulous and way more modern looking than when he gets to thrift shopping for prints.

 

[Alquimista]

It's useless to copy the archives and left the glamour behind, the sexiness behind.

I'm gonna pull a Tom Ford here: Michele don't make clothes that makes women (and men) look f*ckable. There is no danger, no blood in his world. His genderfluid librarians only care about books and pottery.

Although in my view PPP and Disgrazia killed Valentino' sensuality way before Michele.

 

[disco54]

Going through all the looks , only one stood out , this deco print wrap dress.
If this was styled with a more sexier older model like Maria Carla Boscono with sexy heels, stockings, smokey make up , vivid red lipstick and an opulent background , this would have very high impact. Instead we get a high school geek with a grannie vibe

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[disco54]

It's useless to copy the archives and left the glamour behind, the sexiness behind.

I'm gonna pull a Tom Ford here: Michele don't make clothes that makes women (and men) look f*ckable. There is no danger, no blood in his world. His genderfluid librarians only care about books and pottery.

Although in my view PPP and Disgrazia killed Valentino' sensuality way before Michele.

I don’t know what people are expecting from Valentino in 2024, but I’m personally glad that Alessandro is responding to the archives with his own aesthetic and touch.

What Mr. Valentino did was perfect and should be left in the time period whence it was created in. We don’t need to see what he did Version 2.0, we need to see a different and unique interpretation of his archive.

That is precisely what Alessandro is doing.

Also if you understand the ethos of the brand and why Mr. Valentino did what he did, you will understand what Alessandro is doing at Valentino for the year 2024.

This kind of opulence and extravagance 2024 is almost an act of rebellion against the status quo and against what the prevailing "trends" are today. "Beauty for beauty's sake" and timeless elegance are qualities that Valentino essentially stood for. He was never aspiring to being avant-garde or to creating new shapes and silhouettes like his peers. He instead focused on craftsmanship and timelessness and beauty.

Why are people suddenly expecting the creative director of Valentino to be avant-garde or somehow distinctly new in terms of concepts? This is not the brand to position a Nicolas Ghesquiere type creative director.


LOFFICIEL ITALIA

I am rooting for AM , but let me be clear here Valentino's work from the 70s and 80s looks more timeless and chic , its a glamorous sexy but sedate woman. The outfits presented here are largely whimsical thrift shop fare for teenage girls, it lacks appeal , if it was 2016, they had their novelty but not now. He really needs to up his game for his debut collection at Valentino and have a stronger and cohesive vision in his clothes.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I am rooting for AM , but let me be clear here Valentino's work from the 70s and 80s looks more timeless and chic , its a glamorous sexy but sedate woman. The outfits presented here are largely whimsical thrift shop fare for teenage girls, it lacks appeal , if it was 2016, they had their novelty but not now. He really needs to up his game for his debut collection at Valentino and have a stronger and cohesive vision in his clothes.

Me as well to many talking head in fashion let the designers breathe ! There is so much crap out there, I love the way he dreams of a women. It need to be tone down yes but let the dreams come out.

 

[RaisinBoy]

When i looked at this collection again, i thought the same as i did initially- what a horrible dated old fashioned idiotic collection.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I think the individual prices are quite good. There is a lot of variety. What brings it down is the styling. It’s too much. Every look is drowning with accessories. I’m going to excuse the casting because most brands don’t hire top models for lookbooks anyways. Regardless of all that he’s off to a good start.

 

[LadyJunon]

According to several reviews, this collection is slated to arrive in stores in October, which is very close to the usual date for the core"fall/winter" delivery. I have a feeling that they aren't going to manufacture PPP's last collection and are planning to have this collection replace it.

 

[Lola701]

According to several reviews, this collection is slated to arrive in stores in October, which is very close to the usual date for the core"fall/winter" delivery. I have a feeling that they aren't going to manufacture PPP's last collection and are planning to have this collection replace it.

So it will arrive 1 month before the usual date for early arrivals of Resort.

It’s a clever strategy to drawn people to the stores. I suspect that all the guests at the SS show will wear the resort collection already.

But no, they will sell the PPP collection. Maybe stores didn’t bought a lot of stuff and they will « kill » the collection but FW is supposed to arrive in early September.

Maybe they will push Alessandro’s bags first before the RTW.

YSL did the same. They « killed » Stefano’s last collection it was available in boutiques but Hedi released very quickly the permanent collection campaign.

PPP’s collections will fill the outlets anyway as Alessandro’s first collection will not go on sales.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Unfortunately, this is exactly what I was personally expecting, given his costume sh!tshow we saw at Gucci. Look, I know Frida wasn't the best designer by any means, but at least with her collections there was always a clear POV and you could tell one season apart from the other (and I think there were a few seasons you could consider sexy/desirable, I loved Spring 2006 and Fall 2010). With Alessandro (and tbh most current designers these days), each collection bleeds endlessly into the next to create one gigantic mess of a tenure.

Also as many mentioned, there's just no sex appeal to these kinds of clothes. Almost every designer these days just creates endless parades of safe, boring, neutered clothing that doesn't generate any feeling of desire or tension. With so many designers hopping on the Y2K bandwagon, they managed to make that all look sexless too! I grew up during that era, I remember it well and quite frankly, I'd rather just buy archival pieces from those days then ever consider spending my money on a single modern piece.

 

[lookatme]

I grew up during that era, I remember it well and quite frankly, I'd rather just buy archival pieces from those days then ever consider spending my money on a single modern piece.

You and everyone else. There’s a reason the vintage designer market is so hot right now, especially for 90’s and 00’s fashion.

Designer clothes were distinctive then. And the value is so much higher - better materials, better construction, better design. Designer clothes used to mean something like, say, a delicate ruffled silk chiffon blouse with perfect finishing. Now, it’s a slovenly oversized cotton t-shirt. And the t-shirt is more expensive than the vintage resale!

Anyway…back to this collection. It’s not even the pieces themselves I’m having a hard time with…it’s, as others have mentioned, the styling, the casting, the presentation.

The jet-setting Valentino woman of old may be a bit of a thing of the past, so I wouldn’t expect Alessandro to vamp it up in that way - I fully anticipated a 60’s/70’s archive deep dive.

However - this same collection on some GORGEOUS models with some glamorous hair and makeup, some sexier shoes…it could work! It’d be just the shift he would need to make his work feel evolved and situated at Valentino.

I hope there’s some people on his team that can advocate for that kind of direction. Otherwise, I feel like this will be a big flop. No one wants to see his Gucci replicated. It’s too unimaginative.

 

[jeremydante]

The circus is back in town.


I have such a deep hatred for designers who put the house code second to their own vision. Deep. Yes, we get it - there is a 60's adjacency with the beginnings of Valentino, but this is not that. This is not a proper referencing of Valentino code. This could have been a Gucci collection and we all know it. The fact that he wanted the Fendi family out at Fendi so he could take the reins there says it all- he has absolutely no respect. Start your own label and quit hiding in the ateliers making us think you'll honor heritage of spaces you occupy. So disrespectful.

Not even Valentino for me. There was no slow burn or easing into it, just boom- CIRCUS. I'm tired.
Excessive by number, yet nothing was given. Too much becomes nothing just the same, for me.