Valentino S/S 2025 Paris

That's so weird and exhausting this really is just a numbers game shuffling money around. Since Kering has a big stake in Valentino, they just moved the sellable but not hype merchandise under a different name so their big money maker Gucci can do something even more lowest common denominator.
 
Take the looks apart and the pieces are beautiful. Perfect for Valentino actually.

While watching the show, I think that an obstacle for Michele is to focus his message in each show. If he could focus on one message in the styling of each show, then each show would appear different. But since he does all the same ingredients in each show, it all starts looking the same. For example, do a gypsy one season, the next the 70s, the next the 20s. But instead he does it all each season.
I was thinking this exactly.

This collections should’ve been all red, black, white, tailoring, polka dots, “glamour”, big hats, very bourgeois, red lips, smoky eyes, late 80s, a little bit of 90s… a little bit femme fatale.

No bandana, no sunglasses, no ethnic dresses, no mix of 100 colors… that’s what totally killed it imo. There was no editing.


Anyways, as I said, I hated his Gucci as much as the next person, but there are some pieces here that are great and I can see that he took the “spirit” of the house a little bit into consideration. Gucci has no identity. Valentino does and I think it’s great for him to work within a framework.

I think he could do good if he just focused in one theme per season as you suggested. Otherwise it’s gonna get boring very soon.

Edit: I hate logos but that bag in black and white with the V is so cute. It has something special, like 70s done right, and chic despite of the logo. I can see it being a total success.
 
no dear Garavani sold it all he has zero royalties coming in from the current brand.

The Qatari investment group Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C, backed by an unnamed investor, acquired full ownership of Valentino Fashion Group SpA from London-based private equity firm Permira and Italian textile manufacturers Marzotto. While Valentino did not disclose the name of the investor behind Mayhoola, British media had recently reported that Qatar's royal family was previously in advanced talks to buy the fashion label for about 700-755 million euros ($850-930 million).

Valentino had faced financial difficulties for some time. London-based private equity firm Permira took control of Valentino Fashion Group, which at the time included Valentino and German menswear brand Hugo Boss, in 2007 for 5.3 billion euros in one of the largest deals in Europe that year.
In December 2009, hit by the financial crisis, the brand had to restructure its debt and Permira, together with textile manufacturer Marzotto,
placed Hugo Boss in a separate entity.

He is just very old now and maybe not in perfect health to be stressed with this show or anything else, like the Bof interview Alesandro said he did not get to speak to him since his appointment.
Wow ok I think he's in pretty good shape for 92 years old. He'll be fine he understands that things move on and change.
 
For me, fashion is so much more than the clothes. It’s actually when there’s more than clothes that it becomes fashion…

Alessandro Michele can have multiple raids in the archives but the essence of Valentino is in his representation of women and men.

PPP’s Valentino in many aspects had nothing to do with Valentino but his representation of women was believable for Valentino.

MGC can but a belt on every dress on the runway, she still don’t get the spirit of Dior.

Hedi Slimane for YSL was never believable for me. The YSL woman was never a groupie.

I enjoy irreverence. That’s what Karl did, what John did, what Stefano did at some point.

When I look at the best collection of the day, Celine by Hedi Slimane, it success resides in the fact it’s Celine in it essence: classic, bourgeois style. Because he understood the essence, he was able to be totally irreverent about that. The Balenciaga HC are totally detached from that universe but somehow it works.

Valentino is still Jet Set. It wasn’t Roberto Capucci. He made clothes for women who went from boats to garden parties, from operas to Dinner with the royals.

For me putting florals, polka dots and an overdose of Chiffon is not even enough to indicate that it’s Valentino.

Now, im curious to know what Giancarlo Giammetti, Carlos Souza and Naty Abascal
Think of this.
 
If you take away the silly styling choices, the individual pieces do have that decadent Valentino flavor. But it's buried so deep beneath ridiculous crap like lace catsuits and NECK BRACES, it's foremost an Alessandro Michele collection before it's a Valentino collection.

And I think that's his 'signature'. He's a stylist/merchandiser before he's a designer.
 
If you strip back the lace and feathers there are some beautiful pieces buried in this cacophony but this is what I mean that he need someone to guide him like Carine Roitfeld , this dress is beautiful but the the lace and doilies just detracts from it

 
I was watching some early 00s Valentino shows, and I don’t think people mention this often, but Valentino used to be fun and sexy. So when I see something like this, I think to myself, see? If Alessandro were more focused, his work would flourish so much because he could do an extended version of something like this (a jeans-based collection, for example) without betraying his creative agenda or core creative soul.

I have no doubt this is going to sell. I’m curious to see how all of this will be presented in the stores. There’s something for everyone, even for me, I think I would invest in of the version of the big bag from this look or this look.
 
I dunno if I'm being a lil crazy in saying this, but the styling of many of these looks reminds me of Dolce and Gabbana in the early, early 2000s. But it's like the wallflower version of it. Like a meek lil alt individual that thinks they're not like everyone else.

This is predictable. And I hate it with a passion purely because it's nearly exactly the same as before. No matter how many references are pulled from the archives, there's no essence to it. A kids dress up party in mummy and daddy's chateau.
 
I think it is a great return to Michelle's aesthetics after so many pretentiousness from many brands. There are so many down-to-earth beaufiful pieces for wardrobes that appeal to women with various styles (such as those bohemian/maxi dress would easily make people forget the new Chloe for a moment or those YSL inspired ones has the pragmatism that the current brand lacks). Also, the menswear is much-improved from his Gucci days that has the fashion factors might worked for the old good boy from a well to do Valentino looks. I don't have high expectations for the new Valentino so it is a fine collection that probably reminds me about my love for good and beautiful colethes with fashion signatures. At the same time, I guess it is their strategy of selling those big amount products to appeal to as many as customers as possible who might fit into this aesthetics.
 
I thought the collection was quite good! Color me surprised since I was a total hater of his Gucci…but I always had a soft spot for his retro-ish evening wear and that’s the whole focus of this entire lineup.

Solid debut even if there remains a lingering fear of it becoming stale too quickly, since with a few (ugly) tweaks this could be a Gucci collection. I do feel like the quality of his embroidered pieces has gone up a notch compared to his previous tenure. Ready to enjoy a few seasons of pure romanticism.
 
I dont understand why Gucci put themselves out of business to build Valentino. AM could've just done both labels. This is 80 looks, chop it in half and make it Gucci and to be frank you'd never know...

You'd never know because this is Gucci without the GG... I think AM is a better fit here than Gucci because his day, cocktail and evening looks were never appropriate for Gucci. These super luxe pieces work well under the Valentino label. A bunch of other stuff doesn't work and is too reminicent of Gucci. That opening piece feels like Ive seen it on GG's runway before, if I haven't and it's original for Valentino - that's a huge problem.

A lot of jaw dropping red carpet moments here which is - tbh - what Valentino has always been about. Being in Hello and impressing the normies, but now they have cute accessories to sell...

AM fits better at V than Gucci
 
But anyway, my main question is, who's the set designer for this? the floor looks wild but it's generally kind of sexy! I like it.

When I saw the floor the first thing that came to my mind was Sean McGirr and his McQueen “smashed screen” broken glass embroidery :brows: both equally insufferable
 
Valentino lacked elegance towards Alessandra just to burst in tears at the SS2008 Couture just because it was basically a carbon copy of his work.

So he deserved that Avatar collection!
Nah… I think this collection is a stronger karma for what Valentino Garavani did to Alessandra Facchinetti, I am sure she’s somewhere out there laughing while looking at how things slowly crumble down at Valentino from this particular season onwards until Alessandro Michele leaves the maison :shifty:
 

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