Vaquera S/S 2024 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Overindulgence]

I know TFS is going to drag them but I have a soft spot for them (from a consumer point of view). Their collections are brash at first glance, especially in the angsty/intentionally unattractive presentations they've become known for. But there's usually a few great pieces once stripped down to catalog form - and their clothes are surprisingly great quality irl - they are using that Commes Des Garcon investment well.

Now pertaining to this specific collection, I see some pieces I like (the split leg denim shorts, the trench coat skirt, the graphic print shirt, the accesories, the sequined and fringed off-shoulder top), however, it doesn't present as many new ideas as their previous 2 shows - and a few pieces are some that they've released already. I'll give the benefit of the doubt that they're trying to building out their core pieces, but hope they progress more next season.

 

[kikifoz]

I always hear people loving their denim. I'm surprised there are only a few look options with it.

I too have a soft spot for them as they were really the first to start the "experimental collective fashion" aesthetic that began in the mid-2010's.

There are a lot of interesting ideas here particularly with outerwear. Don't love, don't hate.

 

[Nimsay]

John Galliano x Elena Velez.

 

[thiago:)]

Yeah, I heard their denim is good but I'm not fully convinced yet. At least you can't deny they've got personality, I guess...

 

[CholoChic]

Good energy and seductive lines

 

[CholoChic]

John Galliano x Elena Velez.

Everybody is making Galliano these days


vogue.com

 

[gallianostan]

i also clocked the galliano-isms... not that i'm complaining when people do them; just do them properly (which this has failed miserably at lol).

 

[Cocteau Stone]

They do take a lot from early Galliano, particularly from his grad collection which was a essentially a rip off from Westwood's work at the time. Add in a touch of late 80s/early 90s Gaultier and the usual Dada-isms intertwined with Margiela and you pretty much get Vaquera.

It is very easy to be dismissive of this brand, but some of the last few collections had some promises of a shift in their direction. The construction and pattern cutting became tighter, there was a little more directed variety and they seemed to have matured (for the most part). But this is a strong step back, and goes back even further standards wise. It's hard with a lot of these NY and similar designers because they go in, head strong with a clear vision but it is a vision that won't budge or develop.

I've said this on many other collection threads this season, but where is this heading? What is the direction of the brand and vision because not much has changed, and frankly it's started to stagnate. They went from four to two designers, so in theory that helps with isolating a clearer vision but it makes you wonder who contributed to what in the collections...

 

[Nimsay]

Its more than Isms. They clearly looked at 2002ish JG and just copied the looks. They arent couturiers so they didnt make the clothes with the same seaming so thats why its not as ravishing. The fit on those Dior pants is still high fashion af.

its not nearly as good because JG was coming up with those as his interpretation of the 2000s look. Low waisted denim with midriff tops turn into wideleg skaterjeans with a bra. He would never produce this now because its not the look.