this is an article that the times ran yesterday about the new campaign. they also had four of the pics (sadly not online) but i have to admit that versace is getting it right- even the accessories were on the right side of tasteful for a change(!).
July 09, 2005
Less is Moore
Like Demi Moore, the face of her new advertising campaign, Donatella Versace has never been afraid to make a bold statement – but this time it’s with a new minimalist chic
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“Imagine Madonna and Demi Moore as flatmates,” says Donatella Versace, describing the new advertising campaign for her autumn/winter collection. At first, it’s an odd concept (are these women even friends?), but take a little longer to think about it and the connections and inferences are clear. Firstly, let’s state the obvious – Madonna starred in the last Versace campaign, looking for all the world like an übersecretary or an understated boss. Then let’s consider that these are two strong, independent, talented women, who make their own money, create their own chances, attract younger men by the boatload and aren’t afraid to say what they think. In Hollywood terms (but why should it always be on Hollywood’s terms?), they are both slightly past their sell-by dates, though they are both successfully defying gravity by varied means.
In another world, far from the madding crowds of celebrity, the idea of them sharing a bathroom is almost conceivable. In fact, the more I talk to Donatella Versace, the more I think she would like to be the third flatmate. It’s easy to make the comparisons between Demi, Madonna and Donatella. After all, Donatella has always said (and she restates it for our interview) that she would love to have been in the music or film industry: “I have a huge admiration for anyone who can perform in front of an audience of thousands.”
She’s in the same age range as the aforementioned pairing and she’s had more than her share of controversy in the glare of the spotlight. After her brother Gianni died, she was thrust somewhat unwillingly into the driving seat of the company. Once the mourning period for her brother was over, the critics waited to see whether she could pull it off. She silenced them with a deft, sensual collection, rooted in her brother’s genius for body sculpting but with her own rock’n’roll twist. “Life was easier then,” she says of the time before Gianni’s death. “I had less responsibility. My brothers were always there to watch over me and keep me out of trouble. I think people were kinder to each other then and in less of a rush.” Last year, her daughter Allegra came of age and, in accordance with Gianni’s will, inherited 50 per cent of the company.
I’ve been warned that I may not mention Donatella’s much-publicised period of rehab, although she has given one in-depth interview to American Vogue. “It is now a closed subject,” says the PR. Donatella doesn’t seem to think so. “Dealing with my own personal issues took me away from the business for a couple of seasons,” she says, confidently. “But this collection has my heart and soul at its centre.” The collection (sophisticated and sexy – much lauded by the fashion press) signals a new start for the Versace company, which has for a number of years been in turmoil, announcing losses of approx £65 million in 2004. With Donatella back heading up the design team and a new CEO – Giancarlo Di Risio – running the company, Versace is making a bold comeback, revamping its stores, attempting to wrestle back ground that was staked out in its absence by other designers such as Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana.
Additionally, Versace is planning to lay siege to the sophisticated women’s market, a turf that was traditionally monopolised by Armani, Jil Sander and Chanel. The collection – mostly chic daywear – is a metaphor for Donatella’s change of perspective. “Life isn’t always a red carpet – in fact, in most cases it never is. A woman needs a great pair of trousers and a good coat more often than she needs an evening gown,” she says. This is uncharacteristic, coming as it does from the woman for whom the phrase va-va-voom could have been created. I haven’t counted, but I’ll lay money on the fact that Versace is near the very top of the list when it comes to dressing the most red-carpet celebrities. Fashion is changing, she says. “It’s less the look of the season, or the moment, more about investing in great pieces.” There was a time when fashion was everything:
“We all used to take clothes so seriously – this is a serious business but at the end of the day it is just a frock.” She bridles at my suggestion that there is a new Donatella. “There is no new Donatella, just a rediscovery of the old Donatella – with not too much of the old!” Demi Moore was an obvious choice to be the new Versace woman, then? Donatella corrects me again. “She is not my new woman – she is all woman. She is a great friend, she has kids, a career and looks amazing. No wonder she has such a gorgeous man at her side. I am a little jealous!” Given the unattainable beauty of the models and celebrities who have graced her advertising campaigns, I wonder if Donatella has a vision of her ideal customer? “There are women out there who, like me, are not so confident, but like to look it on the outside – once you try on a great piece of Versace tailoring you will never look back.” I’m not convinced. Donatella, whether she likes it or not, is an icon. A tough, stylish, intelligent woman who gave not a fig what the world thought about how she dressed or what she did. This is a woman whose favourite swear word is “flat shoes”, for heaven’s sake. “I am no icon – I have had times when I have been anything but strong, stylish or intelligent. Have I succeeded? I am still trying, and my learning curve is still vertical.”