Willy Chavarria F/W 2025.26 Paris

It's an aesthetic as much as the typical Parisian girl aesthetic.
It’s a visual aesthetic but it’s not a design aesthetic. Typical Parisian girl is a visual aesthetic but it can be interpreted differently by many people. And you can be different type of typical Parisian girls…

So Willy is giving a visual aesthetic but the pieces have no design aesthetic.

What make those clothes « Willy Chavarria »? How do you recognize those clothes out of the context of the show?

Dolce & Gabbana is about sexiness and Sicily. I can count on one hand the number of time they did shows with people from Sicily. But with or without those people, you can recognize a D&G dress, print, blazer among others because the design aesthetic is as strong as the visual aesthetic. And that’s what allows a designer to do many different things and still be recognizable.

To make it short: there’s no Willy Chavarria style.
 
It’s a visual aesthetic but it’s not a design aesthetic. Typical Parisian girl is a visual aesthetic but it can be interpreted differently by many people. And you can be different type of typical Parisian girls…

So Willy is giving a visual aesthetic but the pieces have no design aesthetic.

What make those clothes « Willy Chavarria »? How do you recognize those clothes out of the context of the show?

Dolce & Gabbana is about sexiness and Sicily. I can count on one hand the number of time they did shows with people from Sicily. But with or without those people, you can recognize a D&G dress, print, blazer among others because the design aesthetic is as strong as the visual aesthetic. And that’s what allows a designer to do many different things and still be recognizable.

To make it short: there’s no Willy Chavarria style.
You just made that up lol. There is such a thing as chicano style, in which he uses for his collection. Anyhow I'm not gonna argue this point anymore with a bunch of euro centric purists.
 
You just made that up lol. There is such a thing as chicano style, in which he uses for his collection. Anyhow I'm not gonna argue this point anymore with a bunch of euro centric purists.
Or you just don’t want to get my point.
I’m talking about design.
There’s such a thing as Chicano style indeed but it’s not my point. What makes his clothes, outside of that context, stand out?

And this is an issue for every designer.
And I don’t have to be a purist of anything. I don’t own fashion…
 
Or you just don’t want to get my point.
I’m talking about design.
There’s such a thing as Chicano style indeed but it’s not my point. What makes his clothes, outside of that context, stand out?

And this is an issue for every designer.
And I don’t have to be a purist of anything. I don’t own fashion…
I'm literally a buyer. Look at these trousers for example, where else am I going to find something in these proportions for men?

05AE9862-038C-4DE3-97A8-E99CA158A906.jpeg
 
I'm literally a buyer. Look at these trousers for example, where else am I going to find something in these proportions for men?

View attachment 1342529
Maybe we should agree to disagree.
You used the word argue and my tension is never going to rise on a fashion conversation simply because I want my point to be understood.

Those pants are good btw. And I’m sure someone who loves big pants can find ersatz of that at Japanese brands from Engineering garments or Number Nine or Junn J I don’t know, I’m not a buyer…
Others members gave options.

And I don’t want to reduce Willy’s work to a pair of pants. And despite the fact that his collections are very similar from one to another, and that they are representative of Chicano style, even when I look at his awkwardly cut blazers, it doesn’t look achieved or convincing enough for me to say « This is such a Willy Chavarria silhouette ».

Jacquemus put out a show with skirts and jackets. He didn’t invent them neither are the people he copied from. But everybody was able to recognize everybody’s work in his collection.

For me that’s what I expect from designers. When I look at a collection, I want to be able to say « this is you »…Great pair of pants impossible to find elsewhere or not.

But maybe my POV is blurred by many things. I’m a woman, I’m black, I’m African and French and im an euro centric purist.
 
I think the boot cut/flare is a far better proposition for a Man's fuller leg option.
 
I mean, the clothes really speak for themself. If all you are doing is reproductions, you better make them exceptionally well (especially if you are charging 1800€ for it) - Besides being a very, lets say, specific style, I'd argue, that this "staple blazer" (staple for whom?) for example fails in cut and production. The unbalanced front that pulls the bottom half over each other, while the back simultaneously has too much fabric, the shoulder collapsing pretty much everywhere due to lack of structure - This to me looks like student project, at best. It costumes, selling a vague idea of a "style" while lacking all the sensuality of its originator. Nobody will be wearing this in two years.

STAPLEBLAZER-CHARCOAL.png.webpWILLY-CHAVARRIA-ECOMM-0909-0473.jpg.webp
 

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