[HERALD INTERVIEW]Designer couple soft-lands in N.Y.Under the title of "Seoul Mates," fashion designers Kang Jin-young and Yoon Han-ii, the soul mates, debuted in New York Times Magazine in August, which in itself is quite an acknowledgment that they have safely entered New York`s fashion circles.
It surely is not the first time a Korean drew attention from media or buyers there. But they have clearly set them apart from their predecessors. The duo, who launched Y&Kei water the earth in 2001, have since been showing their collection during Fashion Week, slowly but steadily gaining appreciation.
Kang and Yoon impressed New York`s critics enough to be selected as the best new designers, winning the Rising Star Award from Fashion Group International in 2003. Back in Seoul, the duo were chosen by the Korea Fashion Association as the designer of the year 2004.
"We accepted the award as an aspiration and support from the fashion industry, hoping that we would work out the challenging assignment to globalize Korean fashion. And we really want to concentrate, devote ourselves and make it," said the couple in an interview with The Korea Herald.
Although the designer duo is a "rising star" in New York, they are one of the most well-known fashion designers in Seoul with their feminine, edgy collection of Obzee, favored by fashion-savvy celebrities from Lee Hyo-ri and Sohn Ye-jin to Lee Na-young, and younger, better-priced range O`2nd.
When asked what it feels like to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of Obzee, Kang said, "The biggest change lies in our responsibility. We cannot afford to forget that we are the head of a business overseeing 300 staff members and the designers who can`t fail our devoted customers.""There would not be a 10-year-old brand to celebrate without our customers. They have been the most important driving force behind what we are now and for them, we aspire to challenge ourselves and find the meaning of our existence as designers," added Yoon.
So how do they differentiate the two wings? Obzee is "an embodiment of an imaginary woman from Kang`s fantasies" and evolved from a flamboyant, sexy collection into a sophisticated one with the right edge, while "Y&Kei targets the high-end market in New York and conveys more global esprit," they explained.
The rather unusual name Y&Kei water the earth stems from the pair. Y and K is obviously from their initials, and earth is Yoon`s element and water is Kang`s. "And `water the earth` also symbolizes our ultimate goal to dress women all across the world," she added.
And the starting point is New York. "Right after we got married, we went to the United States to study fashion and we earnestly wanted to go back with our own brand. And New York is brimming with energy and a significant part of the leading fashion business is centered on the city. That is why we thought New York is the right place for our objective: to be international, to be the best," said Kang.
Shuttling back and forth between the two major cities, they found that the two are similar, in the sense that it is not easy to be in the media spotlight if you are not "in" the big picture, a certain trend that moves fashion.
"But in New York you also have to maintain your originality. The most important thing a buyer would consider is if a certain clothing has the essence of the designer," said Kang.
And so far their collections have been met with keen interests. The secret besides their decade-long expertise? "Well, we brought Oriental concepts, our forte, to New York and are presenting modern interpretations in more American fashion," said Yoon.
Both admitted that when in New York, they can hardly control their passion which can be quite freely unleashed, while in Seoul, they are more aware of their duty as creative director and CEO.
It is not easy to head a fashion brand in Korea struggling in the market which seems to be saturated with imported luxury goods brands. "It may sound cold but we had it coming. Making bankable clothes was the priority instead of building up on designs or brand identity, which turned into a vicious cycle. But this can be a chance for us to wake up and seek a breakthrough," said Kang.
Yoon said that Korean designers should overcome whatever they lack and contemplate what they should have more philosophically. "Chinese designers are drawing attention from fashion industry, we are more resolved that there should be a momentum for Koreans, too. If possible, through Y&Kei."Already, they are occupied with preparing for the next collection, which will be about "expressing a subtly seductive yet classy woman by reinterpreting the image of sumptuous and affluent early nineties."A bigger project is also on its way: "We are planning on launching Obzee and O`2nd in Asia with a distinctive character. And while we firmly position Y&Kei as an international brand, we will also work on our fourth brand `Hanii Y` in New York," said Kang.
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[email protected])By Hwang You-mee
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