Yarns & Thread | the Fashion Spot

Yarns & Thread

gius

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Yarns and threads determine the surface quality of a fabric.. How it feels on the skin, how it drapes. Rough, coarse, soft, spongey, light, heavy.. This topic focuses on the different kinds of yarns and also yarn design

from Fabrics for Interiors
by Jack Lenor Larsen
& Jeanne Weeks
 

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Stainless Steel mixed with silk from HabuTextiles
attachment.php


The steel gives the silk memory properties.
If you make a crease in the fabric, it will keep its shape.
It is also available as 100% steel yarn, finer than a strand of human hair.
 

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chemical yarn knit by LUC
this is totally rigid in this state.


my pic
 

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but, mixed with natural fiber, it gets stiff and you can make interesting stuff,
knits tough like canvas for example.
also it cracks like wood and molds to your body.
 

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some of the man-made silk have been made of a thread which is triangular in section to get a silky sheen.

but it seems that the updated version is not triangular any more.
if anything, just a shape more closer to a circle,
instead, it's an extremely fine thread,
the one that came out this fall is 1/7500 of a hair, for example.
because some designers are demanding more fabulous drape and airier feel than they can expect from real silk
they need an otherworldly performance rather than low maintenance and a silky look.
hagoromo has to be something ethereal.


these dresses from lanvin S/S 08 are made of Toray's product "sillookduet-μ" that the extrafine circular section is characteristic of.
polyester

lanvss080407gh0.jpg


lanvss080390al0.jpg


catwalking
 
Thanks so much for these new posts, runner!
Very interesting

I read about the chemical yarn in the LUC thread (your posts also)
I am very glad to see it as a picture
Do you think it will fall apart in time?
You wrote that it cracks...
When I make yarn, sometimes I will twist two yarns together. If one breaks, the other yarn will hold it, so the fabric will not fall apart. Maybe this is the same for the chemical yarn fabric
 
you're welcome gius
so far it is unlikely to fall apart.
yes it cracks actually with sounds to leave traces of being worn like the distressing on the denim.
it is meant to age like wood,
since the source of inspiration was the old wooden table.
but LUC is basically reversible or double-faced.
and in this case the cracks grow on one side,
only that side comes to look like the cracked surface of the floor in the pic in post #3.
it's not that they bonded two different kinds of knits together, I mean one side and the other of a knitting.
anyway I think it's tougher than normal sweaters.
 
they made a fabric version too.
this skirt is an example of the pieces made of the fabric.
although it looks as if there was a magic skirt floating, it is standing there.
the fabric will not have as obvious cracks on the surface as the knit.
you'd hear it crack but the traces may not be so visible. or may be even invisible without a loupe.
instead it molds more easily. it is fun.
 

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These yarns are fascinating. Where do you buy them? Is it something ordinary consumers can do?
 
they don't sell the luc yarn because it was for their one-off special project.
but I think you can buy the polyester by Toray as cloth. try asking them www.toray.com/contact/index.html
112cm: 1100 yen 1m
148cm: 1300 yen/m





the case in # 5 is about the transition from imitating nature to transcending nature.
but they seem to be still learning from nature.
to take an instance, when they wanted black fabric to look deeper black, the cornea of moth gave them a hint.
it has submicroscopic 凹凸 structure which enables minimum light reflection (apparently this has something to do with the fact moths can fly in poor light).
and they etched minute 凹凸's on the surface of a thread in order to make black (which, as a color, is already the most absorbent of light) look as black as possible.
 
there is a traditional paper named washi, and when washi is made for clothing, it is called kamiko (紙衣.....紙 is paper, 衣 is clothing). clothing items made of kamiko can often be called kamiko too.

it is utilized as a thread,
cut into tape and then twined.
and when a fabric is woven out of the threads, it is called shifu (紙布.....紙 is paper again, and 布 is fabric).
there are two types of shifu available.
one is all woven of kamiko threads,
the other is a mix where the weft is kamiko and the warp is other material like cotton, silk, ramie, etc.
they say both shifu's are excellent in breathability and are washable in a machine.


http://www.e-unica.co.jp/shopping/wahobby/kamiko/kamiko.html


the thread
180106bs4.jpg
180107hw7.jpg




the fabric
all kamiko
1001zu7.jpg
1002xz8.jpg



kamiko/cotton
501da6.jpg
 
i made that for one of my projects^ :p
"asajifu"
(linen & kamiko mix)

i read in some part of japan, there is still a group of people who make this fabric by hand
when i made it, it was quite coarse... but mostly because I used a different type of paper. still beautiful

Paper yarn is also popular in Finland
they have a history of it
especially since the war years.
My teacher long time ago showed me a roll of paper fabric. The colour was like cardboard but it was very soft and thick. It felt like suede. It was also machine-washable
And an artist near my job last year, also showed me a roll of shifu she bought in Japan. I think it felt like a crisp linen... a bit stiffer
 
Chaos Yarn

From craftingchaos.com
2n0soph.jpg


Her friend Merce introduced her to the idea of using a wide variety of leftover scraps of fibres, yarns and fleece.

skx69x.jpg

Spun them into a single using two bobbins
Wanted to stretch the yardage, so plied them with a fine Peruvian yarn

Since it had bits of yarn, it made it easier to form the whole thing into one yarn. The yarn can act as a 'leader'

2bvd4o.jpg
 
Kosuke Tsumura [ MODE less CODE ]
2010.2.20 Sat - 3.20 Sat

NANZUKA UNDERGROUND is pleased to present the solo-exhibition by Kosuke Tsumura(1959-). Kosuke Tsumura was awarded “So-en” prize in 1982, and he is well known as fashion designer, who started his own fashion brand “FINAL HOME” from the Miyake Design Company. His creativity, based on the concept such as “defense”, “survival”, has never stopped just in the field of fashion design, but also it has been regarded widely in the various fields, beyond the border of expression. For example he took part in “The 21st exhibition of Japanese Contemporary Art” in Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in 1992, where he was awarded in the second prize, “VISION OF THE BODY: FASHION OR INVISIBLE CORSET” in Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in 1999, “Venetia Biennial Architecture Exhibition” in 2000, and “SAFE DESIGN TAKES ON RISK” in MOMA the Museum of Modern Art, NY in 2005. Tsumura’s multiple creativity, with both elements of Mode and Art, shows us the new possibility for the expression today.

For this exhibition, Tsumura shows fabrics, reusing plugs and LAN cables, which were destined to be industrial waste. It is not just because he has been very good at using themes such as “recycling” and ”ecology”. But also classical working techniques with his hands, such as “knitting by hand” and “patchwork” are based on his pure sincerity as artist, who is a fashion designer on the other hand. Tsumura considers about the invisible added value, such as “time” and “techniques”, which is made in the background of handwork. He says, “I consider of the relieved mind by twisting strings each other, not to stop my own creativity by taking it for craft and design.”

Tsumura comments for this exhibition as follows:
“The surface of the city, where mode melts unclearly and stopped to work, floats in the air wondering to look for warmth in those old days impossible to go back. This is my challenge to make another dreamy code by using affectionate traditional craft-techniques such as “knitting by hand” and “patchwork”, and to put good sleep to the functional monster called “development”, which is flooded with the jungle of mechanical codes, and natural design made of chemical materials.

We will have the opening reception with the artist. We look forward to seeing you at the exhibition.





Kosuke Tsumura [ MODE less CODE ]
Date : 2010.2.20 Sat - 3.20 Sat
Place : NANZUKA UNDERGROUND
opening hours : Tue-Sat 11am-7pm
Opening Reception : 2010.2.20 Sat , 6-8pm




nug.jp/exhi/2010/01/kosuke_tsumura_mode_less_code_1.html
kalons.net
 

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rubber knit
from ccp S/S 04

catwalking
 

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i honestly feel so silly because i missed so many of these posts...
or maybe i saw some but only read the words quickly and focused more on the images...
trying to understand what they are without the explanation...
sometimes it's fun to let your imagination wander and try to understand things---
like solving a puzzle...
:p...

but i just finally understand about the kamiko fabric...
it's basically fabric made of paper?...so basically---it's some wood pulp originally?
i don't know...japanese paper can be made from so many different things...

i found this about washi
wikipedia.com
Washi (和紙?) is a type of paper made in Japan. Washi is commonly made using fibers from the bark of the gampi tree, the mitsumata shrub (Edgeworthia papyrifera), or the paper mulberry, but also can be made using bamboo, hemp, rice, and wheat. Washi comes from wa meaning Japanese and shi meaning paper, and the term is used to describe paper made by hand in the traditional manner.
Washi is generally tougher than ordinary paper made from wood pulp, and is used in many traditional arts. Origami, Shodo, and Ukiyo-e were all produced using washi. Washi was also used to make various everyday goods like clothes, household goods, and toys as well as vestments and ritual objects for Shinto priests and statues of Buddha. It was even used to make wreaths that were given to winners in the 1998 Winter Paralympics. Several kinds of washi, referred to collectively as Japanese tissue, are used in the conservation and mending of books. Washi was developed from the traditional Chinese paper-making process.
i had thought the LUC skirt was some sort of plastic fiber?...
and that is what the cracking came from...
i am learning something new everyday!...
:p

it's also very interesting about the silk...
some of the man-made silk have been made of a thread which is triangular in section to get a silky sheen.

but it seems that the updated version is not triangular any more.
if anything, just a shape more closer to a circle,
instead, it's an extremely fine thread,
the one that came out this fall is 1/7500 of a hair, for example.
because some designers are demanding more fabulous drape and airier feel than they can expect from real silk
they need an otherworldly performance rather than low maintenance and a silky look.
hagoromo has to be something ethereal.
how true...love it!...
:heart:

i think i need to wear my LUC skirt a bit more often this season so that i can see how it performs...
i am always very precious with it, not wanting to have it look too worn...
but i think that perhaps this is the point...and i have been going about this all wrong!...
:lol:...
 
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oh my gosh...
and i didn't even address the post about Kosuke Tsumura...

i love when fashion designers take it a step farther and actually do art...
the first picture is my fave---is it supposed to be a blanket?
i see a person lying beneath it...

as i looked at it i came to realize that all the different thicknesses of the wires were like the different thicknesses of a yarn/thread...and the devices and outlets they were attached to simply were woven into the whole piece...along with real bits of yarn and such...
but in a really lovely and harmonious way...(rodarte - eat your heart out!!!...:lol:...)
it wasn't until i understood all of this that i realized there was actually a person underneath it all...
:woot:...
and then i thought---
oh...it's a blanket of technology and wires, almost completely obscuring the person beneath it...
pretty cool...!
:p

and the old book is just lovely as well...
like cobwebs...
quite a lovely statement about how little people read books anymore...

thanks so much runner...
these are all great ideas!...
very kind of you to share them here with us...
:flower:
 
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Fiber Futures: Japan's Textile Pioneers


Friday, September 16 — Sunday, December 18

Fiber Futures: Japan's Textile Pioneers showcases the dynamic field of Japanese fiber art. Organized as a juried show jointly presented by Japan Society and International Textile Network Japan in collaboration with Tama University Art Museum, the works on display range from ethereal silk and hemp to paper pulp and synthetic fiber using methods that are sometimes deeply traditional, but sometimes employ the latest weaving and dyeing technology along with an environmentally conscious "green" ethos. Moving far beyond traditional utility, Japan's textile pioneers fuse past and present to create innovative, beautiful and sometimes challenging works of art.

Sudo_1_448.jpg

Reiko Sudō (1953- ), Fabrication, 2011. Fabricated by Kazuhiro Ueno. White cotton. 130 × 59 in. (330 × 150 cm). Courtesy of the artist.
 
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Agano_1_448.jpg

Machiko Agano (1953- ). Untitled, 2011. Five pieces, inkjet-printed mirror sheet. Each 98 1/2 × 39 3/8 × 39 3/8 in. (250 × 100 × 100 cm). Courtesy of the artist.

Arai_1_448.jpg

Jun’ichi Arai (1932 -). Flame-resistant shop curtain, 2005. Polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) film, vacuum-deposited aluminum. 142 × 142 in. (360 × 360 cm). Photo: Mareo Suemasa
Hamatani_1_448.jpg

Akio Hamatani (1947- ). W-Orbit, 2010. Rayon, indigo; special technique. Diameter approximately 157 in. (400 cm). Courtesy of the artist.
 

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