Y's Move
Yohji Yamamoto bags a deal with Mandarina Duck
March 26, 2007—Weird monikers aren't the only thing Y's and Mandarina Duck have in common this season. Yohji Yamamoto's design-forward fashion and furniture line has partnered with the culty Italian luggage makers to create a range of bags and clothing that—in theory and, more refreshingly, in practice—plays off the strengths of both brands. Dubbed Y's Mandarina (why fight the name thing?), the 48-piece collection is equal parts innovation and sleek simplicity. "We were aiming at informal elegance," explains Mandarina Duck VP Sergio Rao, as well as "new ideas and new concepts that could be exploited." So many new concepts, apparently, that the collection is divided into two divisions, Y and M. The Y Division features avant-garde designs such as a hybrid hood-sleeve-bag that might be best described as Children of Men chic. For those who aren't packing for life after the apocalypse, meanwhile, the M Division offers a more practical range of wallets, dopp kits, duffels, and suitcases that combine Mandarina Duck's signature leathers and nylons with a minimal vibe that's all Yohji. As expected, the collection's mostly black, though it does include a sporty white canvas bag that feels particularly yacht-ready—with the exception of its "martial-arts belt" strap, that is. Japanese–Italian alliances haven't always worked out in the past, but this one is off to a good start.
Y's Mandarina prices range from $100 for a leather key holder to $680 for a trolley suitcase; available now at Yohji Yamamoto, 103 Grand St., NYC, (212) 966-9066.
— Paul L. Underwood
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I don't think New Yorkers are ready to embrace it though.
