Your Best & Worst Collections of F/W 2023.24

[vogue28]

That's a wrap on PFW and fashion month as a whole, and I'm genuinely sat here thinking that this has been a very strong season. Not much I've disliked, in all honesty.

Michael Kors Collection was the absolute highlight of New York for me but I liked Christian Siriano, Ulla Johnson, Jason Wu Collection, Brandon Maxwell, Altuzarra. My highlight of London was Richard Quinn and in Milan I was huge fan of Alberta Ferretti, Max Mara, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, Tod's, Trussardi, Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani. Saint Laurent, Balmain, Schiaparelli, Hermes, Alexander McQueen, Chanel (just because) and Miu Miu have all done it for me in Paris!

My favourite collection above ALL else was... Saint Laurent (just like last season, and the season before, and the season...)

Looking back on Vogue Runway just there, I can remember thinking Giambattista Valli was pretty pathetic but I really have admired quite a lot for F/W 2023.24! Even Maria Grazia Chiuri's Christian Dior has some nice elements - like the cannage motifs.

What's been everyone else's best and worst of the season?

 

[gazebo]

Off the top of my had:
Best
Schiaparelli
Watanabe
Moschino
Miu Miu

 

[sanssoleil]

Favourites from what I remember: Yohji, Junye, Del Core, Khaite, Mame Kurogouchi

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Favs:
Altuzarra
Armani
AZ
DG
Dries
Etro
Yohji
*And I can't explain it but Rodarte

 

[yslforever]

Fav : Alexander McQueen, Del Core, Dries van Noten, Mame Kurogouchi, Loewe, Sacai, Max Mara, Toga, Christopher Kane,

Good: Saint-Laurent, Hermès for once, Alexandre Vauthier, Gucci, Courrèges,

Meh: Burberry, Palm Angels, Off-White, Bottega Veneta

Bad: Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga, Fendi, Burberry, Prada, Chloe, Balmain, Givenchy.

Worst: Nina Ricci

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Best: Miu Miu, Dries, Sacai

Didn't click for me but still like: Vuitton, Courreges, Balmain, Undercover, Armani, Cavalli

Want to see more of: Blumarine, Missoni, Etro, Conner Ives (lol)

Bad: Burberry, Ann Demeulemeester, Chloe

Garbage Tier: Nina Ricci

Honorable mention goes to the archive pieces at Paco Rabanne.

 

[Blaiseybabey]

Kill With Fire - Nina Ricci, Pierre Cardin

Yes - Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana (I just hope they won't detour but that may be a very wishful thinking!), Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu

I just Love It - Prada (I liked the simplicity of it all), Nensi Dojaka, Dries Van Noten, Sacai

Weirdly, for my taste, I have liked mostly quite tuned down collections! I am usually into couture-like extravaganza.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

From memory

Best: Dries Van Noten
Good: Proenza Schouler, Y/Project, Ulla Johnson, Loewe, Tove
Bad: Rick Owens, Burberry, AZ Factory
Criminal: Balmain, Nina Ricci

 

[LadyJunon]

Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton and Courrèges topped the entire season for me.

My usual set of Nº21, Loewe, Saint Laurent and Y/Project were consistent favourites. Blumarine and Moschino were good watches. The return of Alexander McQueen lived up to its promise. Hermès was surprisingly good too.

Bottega Veneta, this season, was a bit odd at first watch, but it grew on me a lot.

Ann Demeulemeester was a surprisingly good debut. Missoni and Ferragamo improved tremendously from last season. Cavalli improved a lot too, even if it was a bit derivative.

I feel that both Prada and Miu have finally shown their true colours as what they are to Miuccia. Gucci was surprisingly decent, but disjointed and messy.

Chanel and Dior were bland. Coperni, Givenchy and Nina Ricci were tragic.

Balenciaga was disappointing as I was hoping that Demna would redeem himself. Oh well, Balenciaga will redeem themselves without him.

New York and London were forgettable as always.

 

[jeanclaude]

I love Dries Van Noten exquisite collection. The right colours, the right fabrics; and some interesting concepts here and there.

I also love Yohji Yamamoto. No matter how many times he makes the same total black collections, because he always manages somehow to make it look different from one another.

And the worst is Pierre Cardin. It was so dated I could smell the mould and dust just looking at the pictures.

 

[WAVES]

top of my head:

Very Good: Michael Kors, Max Mara, Bottega, Ferragamo, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Yamamoto, McQueen, DVN.

Excellent: Del Core.

 

[Machinegumm]

Favorite: Dries, Junya
Liked: Yamamoto, Hermes, Saint Laurent, McQueen, Michael Kors, Max Mara, Del Core, D², Ferragamo
No, thanks: Nina Ricci, Coperni, Chanel, Givenchy, Balenciaga

 

[bc collector]

Best: Dries (finally!), Loewe (for once I agree), Sacai (always), DelCore and Shang Xia (why do not people notice?), Bottega Veneta (not as good as the previous but still good)

Good surprise of the season: Ann Demeulemeester
Bad surprise of the season: Nina Ricci (not really a surprise...we kind of knew all along)

Guys who need to go on holiday: Pierpaolo, Raf, Rick
Guys who need to stop annoying us with their "creativity" (and I use the term in a very broad sense) : Demna, Matthew W

Good but Forgettable: pretty much all of the rest

ps: I can't bring myself to love Saint Laurent, nobody will wear those clothes, neither women or men
ps2 for the Prada ppl: can you please stop slapping a logo on EVERY SINGLE freaking garment you put on the runway, both at Prada and Miu Miu? We get it, you survive on hypebeasts and label-pigs, but too much is just too much now.

 

[Beun]

Great: Dries, McQueen, BV, Yamamoto

Awful: Nina Ricci (but we all know this)

Criminal: Demeulemeester

 

[disco54]

1. Dries Van Noten
2. Etro
3. Schiaparelli
4. Michael Kors
5. Loewe

 

[GERGIN]

Best:
- Alaïa
- Alexander McQueen
- Altuzarra
- Ami
- Bottega Veneta
- Carolina Herrera
- Courrèges
- Del Core
- Diesel
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Dries Van Noten
- Dsquared2
- Etro
- Ferragamo
- Lemaire
- Loewe
- Michael Kors Collection
- Miu Miu
- No. 21
- Prada
- Saint Laurent
- Schiaparelli
- Wales Bonner
- Y/ Project

Worst:
- Everything Else

Worstest:
- Nina Ricci by Harris Reed

 

[LadyJunon]

Worstest:
- Nina Ricci by Harris Reed

The fact that you had to break the primordial rules of language to justly illustrate how terrible Nina Ricci was says everything.

 

[gossiping]

Best:
Sacai
Louis Vuitton
Max Mara
Bottega
Fendi
Hermes
Diesel
Miu Miu

Worst:
Balenciaga, Gucci, Nina Ricci

 

[Overindulgence]

Best: Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli
Great: Prada, No. 21, Loewe, Ferragamo, Alaïa, Sacai, Moschino
Good: Saint Laurent (usually considered recent SL shows as best but this one felt redundant this time around), Celine, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Ann Demeulemeester, Proenza, Blumarine, Courreges
Bad: Chanel, Rick Owens, Fendi, Burberry, Gucci, Acne Studios, Chloe
Worst: Nina Ricci

 

[Lola701]

Best:
- Loewe: luxurious, inventive and desirable.

- Missoni: I love that collection. I’m not the craziest about prints, mix and match, skin tight kind of silhouettes on paper (When I see people in archival Gaultier…It will never be me!) but there was an instant « Want/Buy » effect with that collection.

I’ve never been into Missoni but I’m officially IN!

- YSL: Essentiels de luxe. Very efficient and despite the extravaganza of the jackets and the drama of the presentation, those are very beautiful clothes in the most humble way.

- Gucci: Controversial but uplifting. For a the first time in a longtime, there was something more than well cut suits to want from Gucci.

Good:
- Louis Vuitton: Nicolas keeps pushing himself and there were very beautiful clothes but I don’t think the presentation elevated the clothes.

- Lutz Huelle: He is consistent but this felt very achieved in terms of execution. I’ll always have a soft spot for him.

- Schiaparelli: A clever collection. He needs to explore new territories to not feel redundant but this was a good real first collection.

- Dries Van Noten: A return in fine form. Maybe he remembered that women loved from him to do clothes to wear…Not just to look at.

- Etro: He redeemed himself! He got that one…
Now let’s see if he can maintain that!

I must say that Prada and MiuMiu were good in terms of pure clothing but one missed outside of pure tailoring and the other was messy in terms of styling.

Bottega Veneta, Sacai had a lot of ideas but I wasn’t really « touched ».

Worst:
Nina Ricci, Chanel, Lanvin, Chanel (again), Balenciaga, Fendi… They were either boring or terrible.