Your Best & Worst Collections of Menswear F/W 2023.24

vogue28

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That's now more a less a wrap on the menswear F/W 2023.24 season, so thought we'd dissect the best and worst of what we've all just encountered...

Admittedly, I am not a follower of menswear fashion but the collections which spoke to me most when scrolling through Vogue Runway this season have been Fendi, Hermès and although I would never wear it in a million years... there was a mink brown splice jacket toward the end of Dior Men (Look #56) which I thought was fab to look at.

What has been some of your very own personal highs and lows of the season?
 
My favorite is Loewe mostly because I loved it for myself…
In terms of menswear/menswear:
-AMI (I liked the womenswear too)
-HERMÈS
-OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
-PRADA
-SACAI

I think those collections had a clear message, a clear vision of menswear with clothes that were real, desirable and could exist in someone’s life. Honorable mention for Gucci because it’s growing on me and Wales Bonner because despite the annoying tracksuit and maybe lack of strong aesthetic, it was charming.

I didn’t like Vuitton, Dior and I have a lot of issues with Rick Owens.
It was either a pile of stuff or clothes made for IG.
 
My personal best are:
Courrèges - I said that I'd like him to push his menswear and he did. The accompanying women's pre-collection was nice too.
Lemaire - Delicious through and through.
Prada - Stark and sophisticated. I personally would've cut out a third of the looks shown.
Sacai - A well executed exercise in coolness. That's it.
Wales Bonner - Charming and elegant. Womenswear needed a bit more life though.
 
My personal favourite - Yohji. I love what he's done introducing more colours and different fabrics to the usual staples of his collections, would buy it all if I had the money.
 
Highs:
  • Lemaire
  • Courrèges
  • Sacai
  • Hermès
  • Wales Bonner
Lows:
  • Isabel Marant
  • Kenzo
  • Vuitton
  • Givenchy
 
Reflecting on the menswear I’m struck by how generic it all is. Almost every house is doing or merchandising something similar.

stand outs are Lemaire and Hermes. Both brands have a specific look and guy, works really well and is somehow aspirational to me. Beautiful fabrics and colors

personally I really mis Raf Simons’ voice. Even though he had lost his luster and freshness, there was always an interesting proposition that kind of took in the bigger world. The only one who does that a bit is jw Anderson. The rest feels like merch, styling, gimmicks or just really hermetic.
 

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