MILAN
Dolce And Gabbana- Sleek, light, and refreshing: hoping they change the show vibes a bit (they've been doing black and white shows for quite some time now)
Tod's- yummy as always even back when they still had the previous creative director (time for them to showcase it on a runway I wish)
Dunhill- chic with the perfect casting, wish there were older models in the line-up, some outfits I found too hot to be worn for summer but still great overall
Emporio Armani- Surprises me every season, I think it's because more creative direction has been given to other people besides Mr. Armani himself. Interestingly, this line is more modern and fresher than the main one. Perfect casting as well, though it was weird when they forced the models to smile lol
PARIS
Undercover- Usually not a fan of this house but this season, I found it quite creative and romantic, which contrasts with the current menswear landscape that we're in (brutal or outright commercial)
Rick Owens- easily one of the most memorable Rick shows for me, though as said numerously on its thread that it was lacking fashion, I'd give this show a pass
Hermes- It's the Uniqlo for the rich I say, and that's fine, weaker than previous spring menswear offerings but nice showing as always. Kinda liked the matching tattoos tho (also visible in the spring 2024 collection too)
Kiko Kostadinov- Great colors, something refreshing for his house
Sacai- Perfect as always, cute esp the glasses combo, just wish she showed the women's via lookbook, it doesn't really contribute to the show.
Worst:
Loewe- I hope it's JW's last collection for the house, never liked his Loewe again from SS 2022 (with the rose heels) onwards, it was a stripped-back collection but it was not as good compared to when he began his Loewe menswear
Underwhelmed:
Dries- I love Dries but it was just underwhelming for a swan song, it might have been a strategic move since he doesn't want to overwhelm the next designer lol but, I just wish it was more soulful
No comment: Gucci, Prada, Dior, LV
Overall: I Was underwhelmed by Milan this season which is the only week out of all the fashion weeks (women's and couture included) I've been looking forward to the most. But still, I feel like the muscle of menswear still resides in Milan while its soul is in Paris. Muscle, having all the big brands and manufacturers, and soul because of shows that evoked emotion in me aside from commercial viability (i.e. Undercover, Rick, Yhoji,).
