Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2021

[vogue28]

Now that PFW is officially over and that's a complete wrap on fashion month - it's now time for us to dissect the best and worst collections of the season. Any memorable moments (for either good or bad reasons)?

For me, a couple of memorable collections during Milan were Fendi and Versace. I didn't realise how much I liked Hermès until I checked out the collection again today - everything looked immaculate and very well executed. Olivier Theyskens' collection stood out during PFW and of course Chanel stole the show with the set. I also liked Miu Miu.

I must admit, however, that I have sorely missed Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello this season. What a total miss! Still, we have the gorgeous Fall 2020 collection to gawp over.

 

[Lola701]

My bests:
- Fendi. Great set, mood and clothes. A real feeling of luxury and serenity. Fabulous collection!

- Louis Vuitton. Fabulous pants and outerwear. A real proposition and a strong feeling of HF! It’s maybe the collection I’m the most excited to try/wear/buy!

- MM6. Just great fabulous clothes. The spirit of Margiela at Margiela.

- Maison Margiela. A perfect interpretation of the spirit of Margiela at Margiela. I like it even more because MM6 really offered a more « familiar » collection.

- Acne Studios!

Worsts:
- Prada! Hate it!
- Chanel and Dior because it was a waste of time.

 

[Olaffo]

Margiela and Fendi. Rest was the waste of time.

 

[Machinegumm]

Margiela, Yamamoto, Theyskens, RLauren.
Rest was unmemorable.

 

[Overindulgence]

Pleasant Shows: Theyskens, Miu Miu, Eckhaus Latta, Fendi, Peter Do, Charlotte Knowles, Paco Rabanne, Rick Owens, and...Blumarine

Let-Downs: Prada, Givenchy, Valentino, Loewe, Isabel Marant, Dries, and Christopher Kane (and of course the usuals like Dior, Chanel, etc.)

I resonate with Vogue28's comment about missing Saint Laurent. I also wished other strong brands like Mugler, Bottega Veneta, Marc Jacobs, and Gucci released a collection (Celine is releasing their collection soon but I don't have high expectations).

 

[jeanclaude]

I liked the black waistcoat from Sukeina and some draped pieces from Richard Malone.

That´s all!

gfycat.com

 

[helmutnotdead]

Eckhaus Latta.
Supriya Lele.
Fendi.
Moschino.
Paco Rabanne.
Lemaire.
Hermès.
Olivier Theyskens.
Acne Studios.
Maison Margiela -best of the season-.

Honorable mention to: Wales Bonner, Richard Malone, N 21 and Ottolinger. Oh, and those Balenciaga 2004 looks from Louis Vuitton: his most terrific clothes since he's there.

 

[perhydrol]

Best:

Fendi
No. 21
Chloé
Louis Vuitton
Olivier Theyskens
Maison Margiela and MM6
Alexandre Vauthier
Lemaire
Isabel Marant

Worst:

Givenchy
Chanel
Prada
Christopher Kane
Blumarine
Versace

Overall this season wasn't that bad, it could have been worse tbh. At least it was an opportunity to show some brands that their presence in the show schedules brings nothing new to the table and they should focus on doing lookbooks.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Best

Yohji Yamamoto. Just the fact he showed up in Paris spoke of his relentless will to create on his own terms, the opening gowns were magnificent and the set gave it all such a poweful aura.

Olivier Theyskens. He's getting stronger with each season and it's exciting to watch.

Fendi. The set, the mood and the clothes spoke of a modern sophisticated woman, such a relief to see that one last time.

Maison Margiela. Great spirit and the narrative was translated flawlessly.

Good

Miu Miu. Not even near her best work but I don't regret watching it. Fun and easy.

JW Anderson. Wearable with just enough novelty, loved his jackets!

Rick Owens. Great colors and silhouettes. Best use of face masks this month.

Simone Rocha. True to herself and great accessories.

Sharon Wauchob. Classics for today.

Ulla Johnson. Commercial but with a point of view.

Worst

Prada. Need I say more, robotic and shallow, pretentious and dull. Prada is for a woman who enjoys life not for hypebeasts/poser teenagers!

Loewe. Fatsuits for clowns, only looked passable on dress forms...the wire hemmed skirts he plagiarized from Issey/Yohji were the cherry on top of that trainwreck.

Christopher Kane. Just ugly

Matty Bovan. Atrocious, I'll see it in my nightmares

Rodarte. Sad to watch, they keep digging themsleves deeper in a hole of tastelessness.

Dullest

Balenciaga. Once again the same old ugly clothes that I know by heart. I feel like I could pattern and sew them myself by now!

Jacquemus. Badly constructed renditions of dresses he's shown at least 10 times before.

Givenchy. Not an ounce of authenticity and very passé. He should learn to plagiarize lesser known designers, after seeing it once most members could recite a list of at least 20 specific "inspirations".

 

[Salvatore]

Honestly, I just really only remember and liked Fendi.

 

[gossiping]

Best
Chanel
Miu Miu
Louis Vuitton
Acne Studios
Coperni
Blumarine
Versace
Sportmax
Fendi

Worst
Valentino
Prada
Philosophy di lorenzo serafini
Moschino
Dries van noten
Loewe

 

[JohannesL]

The best of the seasons for me are

Theyskens: I think this is the kind of woman I would marry—very versatile but with some dark mystery

Moschino: Easily his best collection for the brand

Paco Rabanne: Not his best, but worth mentioned, I think with time, Julien would become an accomplished designer

Fendi : The play of lightness is very romantic

Margiela: I am biased because I like Galliano

 

[Ruito]

OK, So I'm just gonna write mine alphabetically since I can't rank them:

Fendi
Gabriela Hearst
Hermès
Kenzo
Loewe
Louis Vuitton
Max Mara
Moschino
Prada
Versace

 

[Ruito]

the worst for me were Chloé and Balmain.

 

[Vitamine W]

This has never happened in any season ever, but I only liked Fendi.

 

[Lola701]

Best

Yohji Yamamoto. Just the fact he showed up in Paris spoke of his relentless will to create on his own terms, the opening gowns were magnificent and the set gave it all such a poweful aura.

Olivier Theyskens. He's getting stronger with each season and it's exciting to watch.

Fendi. The set, the mood and the clothes spoke of a modern sophisticated woman, such a relief to see that one last time.

Maison Margiela. Great spirit and the narrative was translated flawlessly.

Good

Miu Miu. Not even near her best work but I don't regret watching it. Fun and easy.

JW Anderson. Wearable with just enough novelty, loved his jackets!

Rick Owens. Great colors and silhouettes. Best use of face masks this month.

Simone Rocha. True to herself and great accessories.

Sharon Wauchob. Classics for today.

Ulla Johnson. Commercial but with a point of view.

Worst

Prada. Need I say more, robotic and shallow, pretentious and dull. Prada is for a woman who enjoys life not for hypebeasts/poser teenagers!

Loewe. Fatsuits for clowns, only looked passable on dress forms...the wire hemmed skirts he plagiarized from Issey/Yohji were the cherry on top of that trainwreck.

Christopher Kane. Just ugly

Matty Bovan. Atrocious, I'll see it in my nightmares

Rodarte. Sad to watch, they keep digging themsleves deeper in a hole of tastelessness.

Dullest

Balenciaga. Once again the same old ugly clothes that I know by heart. I feel like I could pattern and sew them myself by now!

Jacquemus. Badly constructed renditions of dresses he's shown at least 10 times before.

Givenchy. Not an ounce of authenticity and very passé. He should learn to plagiarize lesser known designers, after seeing it once most members could recite a list of at least 20 specific "inspirations".

You actually remembers Jacquemus! It's like it never happened.

 

[billiejbob]

Honestly, I just really only remember and liked Fendi.

Totally! Seems like that's the case for most people on here. Hardly any good shows this season but Fendi seemed to tick all the boxes for everyone.

 

[bc collector]

Fendi Uber Alles (and a big chapeau to Silvia Venturini who spent so many years working beside Karl, and they were not wasted - any reference to Virginie Viard is purely coincidental).

For me the big letdown was Rick Owens and not Prada, because I had some expectations from him. I kind of knew what Prada was going to be, a cold fusion of Miuccia's and Raf's archive that didn't quite meld, say anything new or relevant to the moment. But I am a good person and I'll give them some more time to work things out.
Rick, on the other hand, was daring on one side but the overall impression was one of repetitive looks, with a few strong pieces here and there, but scant as an actual wardrobe offering.
I seem to understand that people here liked Margiela a lot...which I can sort of understand, provided we stop call it Margiela (more present is spirit in the MM6 collection than in the mainline).