Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2025

vogue28

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What's been some of your best and worst of the S/S 2025 season? Some personal highlights for me have been Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors Collection, Richard Quinn, Max Mara, Tom Ford, Gucci, Ferrari, Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent and Chanel. Massively missed Giorgio Armani in Milan this season...
 
This was a depressing season for me, I kept hoping something magnificent would come and it never did. Elated it’s over!

Better:
Tod’s
Standing Ground
Junya Watanabe
Yohji Yamamoto

Good:
Diesel
Ralph Lauren (show and experience, not clothes)
Issey Miyake
Dries Van Noten
Missoni

Worst (soo sooooo many but to pick a few) :
Balenciaga
Burberry
Balmain
Dior
Acne
Fendi
 
My two favorite shows of the season are Celine and Louis Vuitton.

Essentially, they represents two opposite of the spectrum that is High Fashion RTW:

Celine is RTW to the T. Clothes that are comforting, classic, modern in the cut and timeless in their allure and in terms of taste.
It was about essentials of a wardrobe.

Louis Vuitton however symbolises what RTW can be: a laboratory of ideas, an escape from banality and clothes that are maybe not essentials but can be timeless as a statement of a style.

Above all, those shows symbolises two strong POV that despite the commercial constraints, never compromises on the philosophy of the designers that signed them.

Beyond those two collections the following ones were my favorite of the season:
- Marni
- Sunnei
- Missoni
- Versace
- Max Mara
- Dries Van Noten
 
Faves

NY:
dont remember ☹️

London:
Burberry
Standing Ground

Milan:
Bottega

Paris:
Chloe
Issey Miyake
Yohji
LV
 
1. Celine
2. Versace
3. Louis Vuitton
4. Marni
5. Tom Ford
6. Dolce & Gabbana
7. Diesel
8. Chanel
9. Michael Kors
10. Area

HONORABLE MENTION

Yohji Yamamoto
Hermes
Giambattista Valli
Mugler
Antonio Marras
 
Best:
Courrèges
Missoni
Ashlyn
Sacai
Junya Watanabe
Issey Miyake
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Honorable mention: Celine for the few Cristobal Balenciaga inspired pieces, Yohji Yamamoto, and giving some credit to Khaite for a couple of looks I really liked and for trying something new, even if some of it were failed experiments.

This Fashion Week was an absolute disappointment, though. Nothing truly blew me away like it did a few years back.

Worst is of course Balenciaga, though Jil Sander was a massive disappointment.
 
Best in no particular order, and for distinctive reasons:
- LV,
- Issey Miyake,
- Mame Kurogouchi,
- Dries,
- Céline,
- Valentino
- Missoni
- Moschino
- Max Mara and Tod's, I suppose, but I lower the bar for them.

Disappointments:
Ferragamo, YSL, Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, Prada, Chloé, Rabanne, Courrèges

No hope:
Dior, Gucci, Chanel, Burberry,
 
Ralph Lauren
Missoni
Max Mara
Marni
Courrèges
Issey Miyake
Dries Van Noten
Yohji
LV
Celine

My list is quite long lol but I thought this season was particularly terrible.
 
this has to be the weakest season I remember. from the complete lack of color to the castings, a lot of designers playing in the safe zone. let’s hope fall winter will be better.

shows of the season? Standing Ground, Max Mara, Prada (my favorite I think), Carven, Ponte and Louis Vuitton.

I also liked: Marni, Moschino, some stuff from Bally, Tod’s, Junya, Loro Piana, Steve O Smith, S S Daley and Alaïa (hated at first but compared to the rest he’s Karl Lagerfeld)
 
This was an abysmal season overall. Everyone either played It safe or followed trend forecasts. The over use of fringe, men’s tailoring, yellow, and trompe l'oeil were truly noticeable.

My favorites were Celine, Bottega, Dolce & Gabbana, Standing Ground, and Campillo.

Least favorite: Dior, Burberry, Coperni, Chanel, and lowkey Comme Des Garçons
 
Even though I understand why, this season was a complete mess.
80% of the houses seemed to be in a panic which will only make things worst.
Biggest dissapointment: Bottega, Prada, YSL, Chloe, Hearst, Gucci, Valentino. Loewe
Not that bad: Dior, Burberry, Proenza Schouler, The Attico , Max Mara
Fave new entry: SS Daley
 
My top 10 shows of the season:

1) Loewe
2) Bottega Veneta
3) Issey Miyake
4) Marni
5) Yohji Yamamoto
6) Schiaparelli
7) Carolina Herrera
8) Louis Vuitton
9) Mugler
10) Rabanne
 
What a terrible season. I can’t believe we end up the year like that.

The best ones no particular order:
Celine
Loewe
Versace
Issey Miyake

Honorable mentions:
Dries van Noten
Ponte
Courrèges
LV

Most of them were mostly repetitive like BV this season is just the SS23 bis or Rick Owens.

Few others tried too hard to be innovative that they lost the plot : Prada, VB, Stella McCartney.

Then several were just a non event that a lookbook would have been enough : The Row, Carven, Akris, Hermes,Chanel, Fendi and Gucci.

When the market slowdown I advise them to make their POV stronger than ever and to be confident about what make them so unique instead of trying to please everyone as they end up pleasing nobody.

And for God’s sake, let’s have better shoes next season.
 

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