here is FWD review:
Yves Saint Laurent: Bullfighting After Party Chic
Godfrey Deeny Tue Oct 11, 2:07 PM ET
Fashion Wire Daily - Paris - The French have the right term for it: Qui s’impose, impose. Meaning whoever imposes their will wins, an expressing that well sums up the rather brilliant spring summer 2006 collection Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent presented on Sunday.
A Spanish inspired series of great clothes (part austere lean shapes, part ruffled lascivious contessa), the collection had lots of attitude, the clearest point of view and plenty of statement. Pilati got something that too many designers here and elsewhere have forgotten throughout this hyper put-together, lady-like season - that women are sensual creatures not afraid of showing their corporeal beauty to great effect.
“Spanish and sensual,” was how Stefano defined it to FWD, as he held court in front of the backdrop – a la Tom Ford – after the show in the Grand Palais.
Staged on a football field length burgundy felt catwalk before a power audience that included
Catherine Deneuve, Betty Catroux, Emmanuelle Seigneur, Kristin Scott, theatre great Robert Hossein, Juergen Teller and the absurdly late arriving Marilyn Manson and Dita von Teese (who then poised for a local photographer even as the opening music sounded), the moment was also a consecration. Pilati, as the one Gucci Group designer and recently anointed Magnificent Seven member of American Vogue, was able to summon the anointed throng, en masse. And, wasn’t that Carine Roitfeld wearing a look from the show itself?
Nicolas Ghesquire at Balenciaga might hold the artistic high ground, Alexander McQueen the cool crowd and Frida Giannini at Gucci the purse strings, but Pilati suddenly is The Man.
Toreador pants with bolero jackets, shirts ruffled at the hem, fringe, throat, neck and midriff all made for hot lady looks. Worn with copper, gold and silver slanted platforms they were authoritative and yet nocturnal.
Liquid faced, alluring models in a perfect casting who owned the space, appeared in black and gold basket weave linen – this season’s fabric du jour in Paris – ideas, and a great selection of Iberian blanket and leather trim, or gold tentacle spider web clutches. Oddly, it reminded this reviewer of Hollywood films about old New Orleans, something spotted also in Balenciaga, though one assumes with no reference intended to recent chaotic events.
Even when Stefano pushed too hard – and the silhouette is a demanding one anyway – like his cape passage on Marcelle Bittar that was faintly absurd, it did not matter, because it all helped to make the right statement.
And when is the next corrida?
& here the ysl web site invitation:
