callmejaeden
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1954 to 1991: Under Geneviéve and lull
In November of 1954 Jacques Fath died of leukaemia. After his death his wife Geneviève Fath (née Boucher de la Bruyère) former model and secretary to Coco Chanel took over the haute couture house and debuted her first collection on 3 February 1955. However, the House of Fath was shuttered in 1957.
Not much is known about Geneviève after the house shuttered but I did find two articles from 1963 and 1972 about her being robbed both from November (A reoccurring month of bad-luck with this brand).1 and 2 She did however remarry in 1967 to Kudret Ismaïl Talay a Turkish interior designer, whom she later divorced.
According to this WWD article after closing there were a mens ready-to-wear line and tie line. From the early 60s till 1993 L'Oréal ran the fragrance line.3
1992 to 2010: Return and tribulations
For autumn 1992 Jacques Fath was relaunched as a women's ready-to-wear line under the direction of Tom van Lingen. The brand was now owned by Altus Finance, a subsidiary of Crédit Lyonnais.
The brand was successful and by 1994 had total sales of $10 million (USD, around $20 million adjusted for inflation) of that $3.2 million (USD, around $6.7 million adjusted for inflation) were from the fragrance line which was now owned by the brand. By 1995 the brand was showing ready-to-wear, resort and pre-autumn collections.
From the same WWD article (which has been my main insight for the the 1992-1995 era of the brand) the sales were split
Europe (not France
30%
United States: 26%
France: 23%
Japan: 21%
In March 1997, the company was sold by Altus Finance (for more information about the company see the Crédit Lyonnais banking scandal) and purchased by Group Emmanuelle Khanh. Tom van Lingen left and later launched his own brand which I can find evidence of shows from Spring/Summer 2000 to Autumn/Winter 2003 after this he seems to have flown off the fashion radar, however on early TfS he had a thread for his last collection, see here.
Under the new owners Elena Nazaroff was brought on as the brand designer. However, after one collection, her contract was terminated in November 1997, less than a year into her 3 year contract with the brand.4
After one show Nazaroff was replaced by Octavio Pizarro. His first collection had a semi-neutral response from WWD.5 After Nazaroff left Jacques Fath she designed for her own label and worked at Mario Moya and Zac Posen.
In 2002, Group Emmanuelle Khanh became part of the France Luxury Group consisting of Emanuelle Khanh, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Harel. The company was a joint venture between Mounir Moufarrige and François Barthes. In November 2002 the majority stake in FLG was sold to Alain Dumenil.
Pizzaro was replaced in 2002 by Lizzy Disney. After leaving Jacques Fath he worked at Guy Laroche and now designs for his own brand. Also note that Jacques Fath seems to not have shown any collections from 1999 till its return under Disney in 2002. However Lizzy Disney and Jacques Fath did not last long and the brand was shuttered in early 2003.5 The brand was shuttered to focus on the Jean-Louis Scherrer brand.
Note: firstview.com shows that the house had collections for 2003 and 2004 but I can not find any information on the designer of these collections.
An accessories line was launched in 2010 under the brand name but however did not last long.
Present - 2024
As of April 2024 the Panouage Group continues to produce perfumes under the Jacques Fath name and Encens Copal launched this year as the latest fragrance. The clothing brand seems to be dead, however FIDRA S.A. applied to register the Jacques Fath trademark last year for the brand in the USA. Fidra first registered the trademark in 1972 so it seems to have some long term association with the brand.
Now let's get onto the fun things ad campaigns, show videos, covers, editorials etc...
In November of 1954 Jacques Fath died of leukaemia. After his death his wife Geneviève Fath (née Boucher de la Bruyère) former model and secretary to Coco Chanel took over the haute couture house and debuted her first collection on 3 February 1955. However, the House of Fath was shuttered in 1957.
Not much is known about Geneviève after the house shuttered but I did find two articles from 1963 and 1972 about her being robbed both from November (A reoccurring month of bad-luck with this brand).1 and 2 She did however remarry in 1967 to Kudret Ismaïl Talay a Turkish interior designer, whom she later divorced.
According to this WWD article after closing there were a mens ready-to-wear line and tie line. From the early 60s till 1993 L'Oréal ran the fragrance line.3
1992 to 2010: Return and tribulations
For autumn 1992 Jacques Fath was relaunched as a women's ready-to-wear line under the direction of Tom van Lingen. The brand was now owned by Altus Finance, a subsidiary of Crédit Lyonnais.
The brand was successful and by 1994 had total sales of $10 million (USD, around $20 million adjusted for inflation) of that $3.2 million (USD, around $6.7 million adjusted for inflation) were from the fragrance line which was now owned by the brand. By 1995 the brand was showing ready-to-wear, resort and pre-autumn collections.
From the same WWD article (which has been my main insight for the the 1992-1995 era of the brand) the sales were split
Europe (not France
30%United States: 26%
France: 23%
Japan: 21%
In March 1997, the company was sold by Altus Finance (for more information about the company see the Crédit Lyonnais banking scandal) and purchased by Group Emmanuelle Khanh. Tom van Lingen left and later launched his own brand which I can find evidence of shows from Spring/Summer 2000 to Autumn/Winter 2003 after this he seems to have flown off the fashion radar, however on early TfS he had a thread for his last collection, see here.
Under the new owners Elena Nazaroff was brought on as the brand designer. However, after one collection, her contract was terminated in November 1997, less than a year into her 3 year contract with the brand.4
After one show Nazaroff was replaced by Octavio Pizarro. His first collection had a semi-neutral response from WWD.5 After Nazaroff left Jacques Fath she designed for her own label and worked at Mario Moya and Zac Posen.
In 2002, Group Emmanuelle Khanh became part of the France Luxury Group consisting of Emanuelle Khanh, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Harel. The company was a joint venture between Mounir Moufarrige and François Barthes. In November 2002 the majority stake in FLG was sold to Alain Dumenil.
Pizzaro was replaced in 2002 by Lizzy Disney. After leaving Jacques Fath he worked at Guy Laroche and now designs for his own brand. Also note that Jacques Fath seems to not have shown any collections from 1999 till its return under Disney in 2002. However Lizzy Disney and Jacques Fath did not last long and the brand was shuttered in early 2003.5 The brand was shuttered to focus on the Jean-Louis Scherrer brand.
Note: firstview.com shows that the house had collections for 2003 and 2004 but I can not find any information on the designer of these collections.
An accessories line was launched in 2010 under the brand name but however did not last long.
Present - 2024
As of April 2024 the Panouage Group continues to produce perfumes under the Jacques Fath name and Encens Copal launched this year as the latest fragrance. The clothing brand seems to be dead, however FIDRA S.A. applied to register the Jacques Fath trademark last year for the brand in the USA. Fidra first registered the trademark in 1972 so it seems to have some long term association with the brand.
Now let's get onto the fun things ad campaigns, show videos, covers, editorials etc...
