F/W 2024.25 & Cruise 2025 Open Discussion Thread

Dates and Locations for the upcoming Cruise shows:
Chanel:
02.05, Marseille
Gucci: 13.05, London
Louis Vuitton: 23.05, Barcelona
Balenciaga: 30.05, Shanghai
Dior: 03.06, Drummond Castle
Max Mara: 11.06, Venice
 
It’s funny but recently I had a discussion with a boutique owner and we wondered why big brands don’t hold shows in Switzerland. Chanel might probably be kinda embarrassed by it in terms of Story-telling but considering the amount of rich people in Zurich and the fact that it perpetuate the idea of a lifestyle, I wonder why it never happened.
 
It’s funny but recently I had a discussion with a boutique owner and we wondered why big brands don’t hold shows in Switzerland. Chanel might probably be kinda embarrassed by it in terms of Story-telling but considering the amount of rich people in Zurich and the fact that it perpetuate the idea of a lifestyle, I wonder why it never happened.
The far west end of Lake Geneva is completely surrounded by luxury brands. If it isn't a luxury boutique or a departure store, then the headquarters of 75% of Richemont's portfolio.
 
It’s funny but recently I had a discussion with a boutique owner and we wondered why big brands don’t hold shows in Switzerland. Chanel might probably be kinda embarrassed by it in terms of Story-telling but considering the amount of rich people in Zurich and the fact that it perpetuate the idea of a lifestyle, I wonder why it never happened.
Switzerland is not the most evocative destination, nor has a particular artsy-fashion zeitgest.
It's a customers' market (sometimes with questionnable taste, especially in ski resorts boutiques).
It's difficult to start a story-telling which isn't about pure clichés...
Plus the production costs would skyrocket.
 
Switzerland is not the most evocative destination, nor has a particular artsy-fashion zeitgest.
It's a customers' market (sometimes with questionnable taste, especially in ski resorts boutiques).
It's difficult to start a story-telling which isn't about pure clichés...
Plus the production costs would skyrocket.
It’s better than Marseille…
But I agree that production costs would skyrocket.
 
It’s better than Marseille…
But I agree that production costs would skyrocket.
That's a little elitist, I dislike Marseille just like many people, but Chanel and Marseille share a true connection: Chanel selected Rudy Ricciotti for their 19M project after he built the Mucem and there is a direct inspiration between the two buildings, so Chanel obviously loved his work in Marseille. I am even surprised Chanel did not select the Mucem for the show (but 19M is exhibiting for 3 weeks at Fort St-Jean-Mucem).
I just fail to see the connection with the Le Corbusier architecture and views, the core concept of the Cité Radieuse is extremely egalitarian, and social egalitarianism is not Chanel at all (that's an euphemism).
This is a location for Jacquemus, or Prada, when Miucca was political and chose the Niemeyer Communist Party Paris HQ for her parties.
Maybe Chanel just wanted some sun and a 360° view.
 
Switzerland is not the most evocative destination, nor has a particular artsy-fashion zeitgest.
Maybe you have a point, but we have Art Basel - still the world's most prestigious art fair :innocent:

The median salary in Switzerland (as of 2023) is around 10'800 US Dollar per month - so you're absolutely right: the costs for a big fashion show would definetely go overboard.
 
Maybe you have a point, but we have Art Basel - still the world's most prestigious art fair :innocent:

The median salary in Switzerland (as of 2023) is around 10'800 US Dollar per month - so you're absolutely right: the costs for a big fashion show would definetely go overboard.
At Art Basel there aren't enough hotel rooms for the event. I have been but its a chore when you haven't booked "les 3 Rois" 8 months in advance, same for the Maastricht antique fair. Hospitality matters a lot for destination shows.
 
Old article, Ralph Lauren will present their Fall/Holiday 2024 collection in New York on April 29:
Ralph Lauren to Show Fall/Holiday Collection in New York
The show will be held on April 29 at a soon-to-be-revealed location.

By JEAN E. PALMIERI
MARCH 22, 2024, 1:00AM

Ralph Lauren is once again embracing his New York roots and will return to the city to show his fall/holiday 2024 collection.

The show will be held on April 29 at a venue that has yet to be revealed. The show is expected to be small and intimate and will reference the city in which the designer still finds much of his inspiration, according to sources.

Although the Bronx, N.Y.-born designer has shown his collections in a variety of cities over the years, he has been using his hometown more frequently of late. In September 2023, Lauren showed his spring 2024 collection at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, marking his return to New York Fashion Week. For that show, he transformed the location into a luxe artist’s loft in a barn and hosted high-wattage guests including Jennifer Lopez, Gabrielle Union, Ariana DeBose, Keri Russell and Diane Keaton for the runway show, followed by a dinner.

The season before, he showed his fall 2022 collection at Huntington Gardens in San Marino, Calif., in what marked his West Coast debut, but prior to that, he showed at MoMa in New York.

In perhaps his most expressive love letter to New York, Lauren celebrated the 50th anniversary of his company with a spectacular show at Bethesda Terrace in Central Park during New York Fashion Week in September 2018. That show drew stars ranging from Oprah Winfrey and Hillary Clinton to Steven Spielberg, as well as a slew of other designers including Calvin Klein, Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Thom Browne and Tommy Hilfiger.
Source: WWD
 
That's a little elitist, I dislike Marseille just like many people, but Chanel and Marseille share a true connection: Chanel selected Rudy Ricciotti for their 19M project after he built the Mucem and there is a direct inspiration between the two buildings, so Chanel obviously loved his work in Marseille. I am even surprised Chanel did not select the Mucem for the show (but 19M is exhibiting for 3 weeks at Fort St-Jean-Mucem).
I just fail to see the connection with the Le Corbusier architecture and views, the core concept of the Cité Radieuse is extremely egalitarian, and social egalitarianism is not Chanel at all (that's an euphemism).
This is a location for Jacquemus, or Prada, when Miucca was political and chose the Niemeyer Communist Party Paris HQ for her parties.
Maybe Chanel just wanted some sun and a 360° view.
I would be not surprised of tourism department paid something. Marseille has very bad reputation on the english Internet. IMO the cruise show every year are more ridiculous very fast fashion. In the beginning was great idea but now creativity is gone.
 
Sooooo looking forward to seeing the Ralph Lauren collection, unveiled later on today in New York! The show will be staged inside Ralph's private design studio:

 


The teaser from Chanel... I am glad Virginie has a more urban culture and a taste for dance, in that way Marseille makes better sense, if only she had a taste for fashion too.
 
Preview is indeed entertaining and well executed but completely removed from anything currently happening at the house design wise, in spirit or in practice. Chanel should truly move on from VV regardless.
 

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